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Perales Samba Member
Joined: May 07, 2007 Posts: 2046 Location: Nova Scotia
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 5:52 am Post subject: valve cover replacement |
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Yes this question will finally reveal that I am a complete mechanical newbie when it comes to engines , but really I want to learn and assume some control over my van.
I am wanting to replace the valve covers on my 87. It seems like a very easy thing to do and the replacement parts seem very cheap so I don't want to pay a mechanic to do something that I believe is so easy.
My question is, when I remove the old valve covers do I need to drain the oil or anything like that first? Am I going to be flowing something all over the place when they come off or it it dry enough in there to just do it. And secondly when I replace the gasket do I need to seal it with some sort of goop or is the replacement seal good enough as is.
Thanks for your patients. _________________ -- 1987 Westfalia automatic (Captain Vino) |
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tencentlife Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2006 Posts: 10078 Location: Abiquiu, NM, USA
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 7:17 am Post subject: |
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You just pry down the center of the wire bails, and pull off the covers. A little oil will dribble out, so have a pan under the head, but it isn't necessary to drain all your oil. The covers are often kinda stuck on, but very gentle prying against the rim in a couple places will break the seal, and they'll be easy to pull off then.
Then you have to remove the old cork gaskets from both covers. Depending on how yours had been put on, they will either fall out themselves, or it'll be some time spent with a putty knife if they were glued in. If you're actually replacing the covers with new ones, then move on to prepping the new gaskets. If reusing, then every trace of old gasket and glue must be removed; the surface within the seal lip must be clean and flat. New covers are so cheap, if the old are really glued in and hard, it might just be time better spent using new covers.
There are as many ways to prep the gaskets as there are VW do-it-yourselfers. Everyone does seem to agree that only the OEM-type cork gaskets will do, although watch some troglodyte pipe in and say that the FLAPS neoprene ones are da bomb.
Anyway, my method: how you treat the cork gasket depends on which type of lifters you have. Why? If you have solid lifters, you'll need to adjust your valve clearances often, so ease of replacing the gasket is paramount. In that case, just smear the entire gasket with wheel bearing grease (not moly), wipe off the excess and stick it into the cover lip. The grease is absorbed by the cork, and keeps it soft for a long time so it won't crack and is easily removed. A pair of gaskets is usually good for two valve adjustments, but you should always have a spare pair on hand.
Since you have hydraulic lifters, you'll just about never have to service the valves, so something a little more permanent is called for, to assure the gaskets never creep. I like to stick the dry gaskets into the covers first with some non-hardening sealer. Don't use silicone; only non-hardening sealer should be used, if any. Gascacinch is my favorite because it's easy to remove the old glue from the metal whenever I need to change gaskets again. I apply a thin layer to the lip of the cover, and to one side of the gasket, and stick it into place. Then I wipe grease all around the exposed gasket face, and put the cover back on.
The lower part of the cover will be swimming in oil when the motor is running, so that's the area I want to be sure is sealed the best. I make sure the lower edge of the gasket is seated against the cover lip, and that then the cover lip is butted against the head. Holding it there, I pry the bail up until it clicks into the groove across the center of the cover. It matters not which way the bail faces, but I do like to pry from the bottom, because then the prying force isn't pulling the cover downward.
Check the oil level, start the motor and warm it up, and look for leaks. If you have everything settled in properly, they will be leak-free for many miles. If you don't grease the cork they will dry out and eventually crack, causing leaks. It's still a good idea to replace them every few years since the cork doesn't have as long a life as some other materials.
Have fun!
Last edited by tencentlife on Wed Jun 20, 2007 2:03 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Perales Samba Member
Joined: May 07, 2007 Posts: 2046 Location: Nova Scotia
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 7:31 am Post subject: |
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Thanks 10c, This sounds like something I can do and have great fun doing. We all have to start somewhere, and the Samba is that somewhere!
You guys (and gals) are great!!! _________________ -- 1987 Westfalia automatic (Captain Vino) |
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captainpartytime Samba Member
Joined: December 04, 2005 Posts: 715 Location: Mission Viejo, CA
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 8:47 am Post subject: |
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ten cent is right on the money! I just did this last week and it took me about 15-20 minutes. I just lubed my cork gaskets with new 20W-50 motor oil and made sure they were seated properly when replacing the bail. Stopped my leaks instantly! _________________ -Kerry
1982 turbo diesel Westfalia |
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wbx Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2005 Posts: 1254 Location: Monterey, CA
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 9:14 am Post subject: |
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I just want to clarify you are talking about replacing just the valve cover GASKETS, and not the whole valve cover, right? Same procedure for both, but unless your valve covers are severely rusted out, they probably don't need replacing.
-Damon _________________ '84 Westy (first owner).......but my daily driver has pedals
My "perspective" mantra:
A Volkswagen Vanagon is just a material thing,
As such, it is of the earth,
And if i need to, I can let my Van go. |
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Dogpilot Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2005 Posts: 4205 Location: Flagstaff, AZ
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 9:50 am Post subject: |
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I believe that the Valve Cover Gasket is a special design feature of German Engineering.
The English car designers felt that a car should leak oil immediately after you purchase it, and do so continuously for the life of the car. The unions in England where pleased with this, as it gave permanent job security to their mechanics. They could then pretend to repair said leaks and charge the warranty for the repair.
The Germans, clever fellows they are, designed their valve cover gaskets on VW's to start leaking virtually the day the warranty ran out. The company, VW, is partially owned by the Union. Therefore, they felt it would be better if this was an out of warranty repair. Thus forcing the customer to pay for the repair and also ensuring job security for the union workers, etc, etc. _________________ Geology with a Syncro rocks!
86 Syncro Westy AKA "The Bughunter"
98 Disco I
08 Range Rover SC
08 VW Rabbit S
1951 O-1G |
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funagon Samba Member
Joined: March 09, 2006 Posts: 1308 Location: SLC, UT
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 10:02 am Post subject: |
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I think dogpilot is getting funnier as time goes by.
Keep it up dog! Yer makin me laugh! |
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bucko Samba Member
Joined: December 09, 2004 Posts: 2617 Location: Coppell, Texas
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 10:38 am Post subject: |
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To, it looks as though DOGPILOT has been waiting too long for his next flight. Too much idle time on his hands has him thinking too hard! _________________ Current VW drives: 1984 Westfalia
Past VW drives: 1967 Beetle, 1973 Beetle, 1977 Bus, 1971 Military Type 181 |
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Perales Samba Member
Joined: May 07, 2007 Posts: 2046 Location: Nova Scotia
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 12:00 pm Post subject: |
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wbx wrote: |
I just want to clarify you are talking about replacing just the valve cover GASKETS, and not the whole valve cover, right? Same procedure for both, but unless your valve covers are severely rusted out, they probably don't need replacing.
-Damon |
I am in fact wanting to replace the whole magilla, valve covers, gaskets and wire bales. The covers and wire bales look so rusted that I am sure they will fail sooner if not later. I don't have much rust on my camper at all except for those valve covers and wire bales. This is totally precautionary as there is no leak now (hmm... warranty must still be good), but for the minor expense, it makes sense to me to take care of it at home rather than on the road somewhere.
One of the covers (driver's side) seems fairly close to the exhaust pipes. Is it tricky to get around the pipes? _________________ -- 1987 Westfalia automatic (Captain Vino) |
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90Doka_Guy Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2007 Posts: 548 Location: South Jersey
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 5:00 pm Post subject: |
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Na theres no trickery to gettting around the exhaust pipes if my memory sevres me correctly. theres enough clearence. Also, when the gasket is put inside the valve cover watch for bowing of the gasket along the top and bottom of the cover. Even the smallest bowing can cause some oil drippage. Although, I think the grease will prevent that by holding it in place if you decide to use it. |
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Veedoubleused Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2007 Posts: 48 Location: Windsor, Ontario
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 5:44 pm Post subject: |
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Whatever you do do not do this. I have no idea how common this is but I broke a wire bale off flush with the head on a 72 bay window (insert RCA dog look here). I had to fabricate a clamp until the engine came out so that it could be drilled. |
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Perales Samba Member
Joined: May 07, 2007 Posts: 2046 Location: Nova Scotia
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 7:09 pm Post subject: |
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Veedoubleused wrote: |
I have no idea how common this is but I broke a wire bale off flush with the head |
Is there any trick to removing the wire bales? I want to replace them too. _________________ -- 1987 Westfalia automatic (Captain Vino) |
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Veedoubleused Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2007 Posts: 48 Location: Windsor, Ontario
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2007 7:40 pm Post subject: |
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Just make sure they move in their holes before prying too hard. |
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captainpartytime Samba Member
Joined: December 04, 2005 Posts: 715 Location: Mission Viejo, CA
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Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 2:33 pm Post subject: |
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Very easy to replace. I replaced all of the above laying on my back in the driveway without even jacking up the van. Although... I've got pretty good at doing repairs on my back in the driveway! _________________ -Kerry
1982 turbo diesel Westfalia |
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Tooharsh Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2012 Posts: 92 Location: Waynesboro, PA
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Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 5:41 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Tencent for the write up. _________________ 1984 Vanagon Tin Top, 69,000 miles, Manual Transmission. |
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HOPS Samba Member
Joined: March 03, 2017 Posts: 36 Location: Melbourne
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Posted: Sat May 20, 2017 3:40 am Post subject: Re: valve cover replacement |
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I removed one valve cover while under the van.
About 100-200ml of oil came out of the cover. A fresh oil change was performed a few days prior. Is this normal?
Within 30 seconds I quickly put the cover back on with the same gasket. Are the gaskets single use only? |
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djkeev Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32632 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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Zephyr_shreds Samba Member
Joined: July 15, 2019 Posts: 185 Location: Bakersfield
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Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2021 2:24 pm Post subject: Re: valve cover replacement |
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please. I need part number asap. 1.9 td/d |
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Zephyr_shreds Samba Member
Joined: July 15, 2019 Posts: 185 Location: Bakersfield
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Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2021 4:05 pm Post subject: Re: valve cover replacement |
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and this part number too please |
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Steve M. Samba Member
Joined: July 30, 2013 Posts: 6833 Location: Fort Lauderdale, Fl.
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Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2021 4:15 pm Post subject: Re: valve cover replacement |
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Zephyr_shreds wrote: |
please. I need part number asap. 1.9 td/d |
Start a new separate thread on this because this is a separate problem from what was originally posted. _________________ This free advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.
There are seven days in a week. Someday is not one of them. |
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