badly worn clutch cable front connector

[BRBa]

Hi-

From a 1973 4 speed manual vehicle, made into a Kubelwagen replica

I was having trouble getting the car into gear, especially first gear, so I got into adjusting the clutch cable. There was a couple of inches of clutch pedal free play... The threaded end on the back end of the cable had very little thread available for the wing nut to tighten so I slipped a suitable nut on there, tightened to what seemed to be reasonable play in the pedal, tested the pedal with my foot, heard a tearing noise, and discovered the back end of the cable had started to fray. Got a new cable and removed the old one and (see picture) found the connector at the front was badly worn. I'm ready to install the new cable, but before, that wonder if the wear on the front connector is symptomatic of a bigger issue? FYI there were 8 (eight) washers on the flexible guide tube and the "sag" as described in Bentley was on the higher end, maybe 1 1/2 inches or more. Also, where does the white plastic sheath which is on both the old and new cable end up once a cable is installed, correctly? I am guessing at the front of the cable. TIA for any help.

[VW_Jimbo]

Looks like a full life for a clutch cable eyelet, that has worked unlubricated for years! Get that Bowden tube set correctly, that would help.

The plastic is a tag. Cut it off before installing. Had a moron install a cable once and that plastic piece got wedged into the steel conduit. That cable broke and the car ended up on my lift with a broken cable. I tried for an hour to get a new cable through the conduit, but could not get it by the plastic tag. Ended up cutting the tunnel open, cutting the tubing open, removing the plastic. Ran a copper tube up to the weld point. Welded the tube back together, then closed the tunnel and welded it. Got the car finished and it ran great.

So, at the time, about 1994, cost him $500 to fix it. All over that plastic tag!
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[Cusser]

[BRBa]

Weell... it looks like a new clutch shaft is in needed. Oh well. Meanwhile, to keep busy I shall drive out the pin (arrowed) and remove the old one. Thanks fellows for all the good info. I will also be removing the plastic sleeve/tag. And greasing everything and setting the tube correctly.

[calvinater]

You can fill that area with weld and regrind the hook.
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"Albatross"!

[Cusser]

[Dan the workingstiff]

This is one area I haven't looked over. Time to do it before we start for the year.
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'69 Beetle
'66 FG buggy
My other air-cooled's
'76 IH 1200
'75 IH 1200

[gilg]

My clutch hook just broke off (pedal to that floor, almost gave me a heart attack) but luckily I was able to retrieve the little end piece.

I welded it back on with a few beads from my MIG welder, and then angle grinded it back flush. I think it’s now stronger than ever. I’m a terrible welder, but it was perhaps the easiest repair I’ve done with the machine.

I think you could do the same with the cable eye...just run a small bead along the back of the thin part to thicken it up.
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'72 Super Beetle - 1776cc w/ dual Weber 134 ICT carbs, Pertronix ignition, glasspack, Rally+ lift springs

[Ovally]

Welding is an option, but doesn't welding weaken the metal? ... I don't trust it in places where force is applied.
It is better to look for a good used one.

Regards.
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VW Bug Oval 1953
VW Bug 1200 D motor
Porsche 911S MFI 1970
Mazda 929 Hardtop 1977
Mercedes SLC 180 Roadster 2018

[BRBa]

No can weld for me. Could take it down the road to a local welder, but... easier to get another one from, and have done so. New part, from a Missouri eBay vendor with decent Feedback. I see "good used one" mentioned in an earlier post. If there are variations in the quality of replacements or if they all are pos's for this piece, let me know, please. I'm new to VWs. Well kind of.

[Pruneman99]

[johneliot]

Or:
https://www.classicbugparts.com/clutch-pedal-shaft-upgrade/
_________________
John

There is no distinctly American criminal class - except Congress.
Mark Twain

69 bug - "The Grey Ghost"

[Fiddlestyx]

Not all clutch hooks are the same. These four are all aligned with a metal rod through the hole that the pin goes into and none are angled the same.

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1983 Vanagon Westfalia Air-cooled
1973 Super Beetle

[TDCTDI]

If you can’t weld then there is surely someone nearby that can. I have had to weld up dozens of these & have never had one fail afterwards.

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Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[goober]

I never welded up a hook end.

And all I have is a stick welder. I was going to weld up a hook but never did. If I did weld up a hook I was going to use a rod called, Super Missile Weld.

It's expensive but an amazing rod. I've used it in the past for tieing tool/spring/stainless to mild steel. It makes a great 'harden' lawnmower blade edge. It's even hard to grind.

I don't know the rod's number but has anyone ever used Super Missile Weld on a hook? It should be unbelievably strong and wear unbelievably well.

[BRBa]

All done. The replacement part was okay, a bit beefier than what was on there but perhaps the hook was not at a perfect 90 degree angle from the shaft. There was maybe a little wiggle when installed, compared to the original. Wish I had known about the upgrade replacement; mine came from eBay in Missouri and I am happy with it though. Note the crimp in the cable (now gone). My helper, Mrs. B., grasped enthusiastically with pliers to keep tension. Also, the wingnut is pretty much tightened as far as it will go. See pics, one taken from the engine bay (Kubelwagen replica...) Part # 111721335E is listed on Jbugs for 46-60 and 74-79 cars (2268mm) and I saw discussion on Youtube about cable length changing, Brazilian VW clutch cables, and wondered if the ends on 111721335E would work and then cried myself to sleep. 13 mm shorter than what I used would probably be ideal. If the cable stretches, I'll put a nut in front of the wingnut, or something. Finally, the plastic sleeve I inquired about earlier is (according to other posts) TEFLON and goes on the front of the cable to keep it from rubbing against the clutch "sleeve." I removed mine, on the advice of someone else. I should have included a picture of it when I first asked about it. Next time.

[Cusser]

[Tim Donahoe]

I have a 1974 Super Beetle, and Jbugs says it’s a 2281 mm length. But 2281 is too long. When I replaced my clutch cable, I went for the 2268, and it was perfect.

Must have been some mid-year change, I guess. But now, with my shorter 2268 mm clutch cable, the rear end of the cable no longer bangs into the firewall, and now I also have plenty of room for adjustment.

Tim
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Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[74 Thing]

Where does that white plastic sleeve on the clutch cable go or do you cut it off?