Buggee's Brazilian Turbo Kit

[Buggeee]

I just received this turbo kit from Spa Turbo in Brazil for $820 USD shipped to my door. I have no Idea what it is, never having built anything with a turbo. They said it's for a 1600 single carb. Appears to be a blow through. They said I could go up to a 1776 but not larger displacement due to the exhaust header size.

So I plan to build an engine for this kit. I am open to any ideas, from a locked dvda and a modified solex, to a crank sensor electronic ignition, to fuel injection, anything really worth considering for the menu. Just brainstorming here.

I have 1776 kit from crank to AA jugs and AA medium valve heads, discussed in my bubbletop mystery case thread, and I have a couple old 1600 dual ports that are getting torn down by my kids and I can use one of those cases as well. So basically the first bridge to cross is to find out what displacement this kit would support. The consensus seemed to be that the 1776 was a waste of a clearanced bubble top case so that case will get a larger displacement build with a stroker. The 1776 kit will get put into a stock case. The pipes on this turbo kit seem small so I'm thinking it matches to the smaller build?

Any ideas on what I have here?

Thank you all

[kangaboy]

Bolt it up and send it!!!!
Look into turbo prepping your carb and also get yourself a wideband (with bung downstream of the turbo exhaust). Looks like you will be able to boost reference your fuel pressure regulator, which is good, but please go electronic ignition. I think this build would be a great candidate for CBs Black Box, and you can keep your distributor.
Good luck dude.
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-74 Standard - "CaliBug" 2084T, MS3X w/FI and Crank Fire
-76 Westy - "Gandalf"
-18 GTI SE

[DerrickfromNC1]

Keep us informed! I’ve look at some of the Brazilian & Mexican VW scene websites and have noticed this setup on a few dubs. I think the CB blackbox suggestion is good. Also I see some of the coating on your header is already coming off. How’s the time to get a good ceramic coating on all those pieces!

[TinCanFab]

[Alstrup]

And about the crappiest 4 into 1 header on the market. If you can even call it that. But on a turbo engine it might not be an issue.
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993

[Striker27]

Ok. I like it. Got a link?? Do they have a set up
For a larger motor??

Thanks

[oprn]

[Buggeee]

https://www.spaturbo.com.br/kit-turbo-vw-fusca-car...-turbina/p

Bruno at [email protected]


There is a link to the kit and my contact for international orders, Bruno. Very courteous guy.

That is what came in the box. It is available without a turbo as well. It is also available for dual carburator applications. I asked about a larger displacement engine but this was it, and he suggested I could do a 1776 with it but not a big displacement engine, due to the small pipe diameter. It is a VERY blunt discharge from the header, no collector to speak of at all. I think this is driven by space constraints as the tube shoots straight up into the engine compartment for an under-the lid-application, supposedly. I might run without a lid, or at the very least stand-offs up and down, due to heat.
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1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[kangaboy]

[infiniteLoop]

I would let the kit dictate the build.Use a solex carb and anything that is practical for an ignition system. An ignition system that costs more than the rest of the kit is not practical in my opinion. It's a inexpensive turbo kit.

[clonebug]

Specs say the turbine wheels are around 33mm and 36mm in diameter.
For comparison a TD04L-13T turbo from a WRX has a 43mm and 56mm wheel.

It depends which wheel it's talking about and I didn't spend much time checking. Most info is in Spanish.
It looks like it will support up to 150 crank hp while a WRX turbo will support 270 crank hp.

If all you want is 150 hp it will make a great street turbo and with the 1776 it will be insta-boost.
A turbo will only flow a specific amount of air which support only so much hp.

Blowing through a carb you don't have to worry about intake heat since the turbo blows warm air and takes care of that for you.
Get a decent ignition system and you can probably get about 15 lbs of boost out of that turbo. It will definitely come on at a fairly low rpm for good streetable mid range torque.

Keep the intake temps down and you will have a nice performer. Run it with crappy ignition and hot IAT's and you will have cracked pistons and possibly a grenaded case.
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[GARRICK.CLARK]

Just saying, but I think let's give this guy support and good advice in this build and stop dissing the parts he's maybe spent ages saving up for. Yes, the exhaust is basic but it will work fine, the turbo is small , so will spool up nice fast. Hopefully the quality of the turbo is good. The carb enrichment is the hard bit. Get an AFR gauge or you'll be blind tuning which is harmful to the engine.

[oprn]

^^^This^^^

I love the fact that it will all fit under the deck lid. No offence intended to others here but when people see a lot of iron hanging off the back end of your Beetle the surprise element is gone. You might as well go ahead and hang that 454 out there, they know you have been tinkering and it will be fast.

This kit is indeed a very good value for the dollar. Could it be improved? Oh ya but like clonebug says it should make 150 HP all day long and that is going to be pretty cool in a stock looking Bug!

As for not needing intake heat - well not if you keep your foot in it... not so sure about stop and go traffic on a cool day.
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We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[clonebug]

In the 7000 miles I did blowing through a Bocar 34 pict I never had any icing problems...
Trust me. It’s not an issue....
The turbo heats the air at least 10-20 degrees just going through it.
It’s one of the many perks of a MS based ignition and/or FI system.
You can log lots of sensors and not have to assume or guess anything..... it’s there real time or saved for perusing later from the comfort of your chair.
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[NJ John]

I’m guessing they go with that header to keep the collector and exit pipe from sticking out past the apron. Lots of people are blowing into modified stock carbs. Go for it and post burn out pics!
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1973 standard, yellow, lowered, 3” narrowed front, 1600 blo-thru turbo w/single dell 15.4@86, so far
11.41 et buggy. Long gone
Let’s go O’s! Let’s go O’s!
https://www.youtube.com/@AirSpooledGarage

[Buggeee]

This is all very good news. Thank you for sharing your insight and advice. I am especially grateful for the generous analysis of the numbers and math. This is, indeed, a playful experiment with low expectations and lots of fun from a novice perspective. The numbers being tossed about are plenty for a streetable cruiser with the occasional vulgar display of power at a local gathering. Little dog with a bad attitude.

In terms of cost for parts, this is a fun hobby. Being low budget is part of the fun, but not the driving consideration if it's going to risk damaging something else or result in an unsolvable frustration. As far as power is concerned, doubling the stock output in a streetable manner would exceed what I thought might be accomplished.

The first question has been answered, which is that will proceed as a 1776 displacement with a stock case, opened for the jugs, and full flow filter. I have a deep sump extra oil capacity thing in the barn I can use as well.

I have some solex carbs and will harvest one for this. I found what appears to be a helpful video about things to consider and remedies for using a solex in a blow through environment here:

https://youtu.be/zb0sxLtT1zE

On ignition, the same guy has a video on locking out the weights on a svda distributor so it advances only on the vacuum signal, which he says drops as boost rises. This would be brutally simple but seems to be a rather random way to achieve a curve. The CB blackbox has been suggested, which seems to be programmable. This will all be interesting research on the ignition front.

For heads, I happen to have a pair of Chinese 40x35.5 heads with single heavy .40 springs. For a turbo I anticipate a need to swap to double springs. Hopefully the boost will make up for the generic porting as I am not looking to get the dremel out for the first time on this build. I'll throw some pictures here just because its Samba. Forgive me if you've seen these before.

As far as a camshaft is concerned I have what may be a stock cam, re-ground. I am going to research how to measure the lobes with my micrometer and will report back with my findings.

_________________
1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[GARRICK.CLARK]

Timing.
Just limit the total timing. Say 12 at idle and 24 total.
This is the cheap easy way. Your build will escalate in complexity once you've got a taste for boost.
Keep it simple on your 1st go at it.
Bit of info.

My choice of fuel pressure reg is the Malpassi FPR 014. This take a fuel pressure from a big (ish) fuel pump with 88 psi down to 3 psi for carb use

[infiniteLoop]

Factory turbo cars had ways of retarding timing when used with a carb.There is no need to lock the timing.

[madmike]

I'd put dual springs in them heads,, like said once u taste boost
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'Black Ice'Drag Buggy 'Turbo'
Rail Buggy 1915 turbo
76 Drag/Street bug 2180cc 'Turbo' 11:85 @113 mph"If I go any faster I'll burn up the Hamster" ,gets 28 mpg. also 10/09/22 11.90 @115 mph
"If I'm ever on Life Support,UNPLUG Me, Then Plug me back In see if that Works"

[clonebug]

Timing needs are set more by IAT’s than boost numbers.
You will be limited by your intake temps which will be 8-11 lbs depending on ambient temps. 130 degree IAT’s are a critical point in my experience.
Those heads will be fine for a 1776 as is. I made almost 200 crank hp through stock heads.
Keep your lift below .425” and 6000 rpm. A stock cam will work but It will probably limit peak torque and hp to a fairly low rpm.
It all depends on how much money you want to throw at it....
You would be better off spending money on ignition and IAT cooling than go fast parts.
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