Introduction/progress thread

[Marinablau703]

Much better and much more level. Should’ve done this to begin with instead of messing around with a jack. I have it locked at half way; when it’s time to reinstall the engine, I’ll raise it all the way, roll the engine under, and drop the car down to it.

[vamram]

Btw - I didn't me to piss on you w/the comment about the jack stands. I've really enjoyed your progress and admire your work!

How trusting are you of the QuickJack?
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'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
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[Marinablau703]

Thanks! I’ve enjoyed going through your several threads as well!

Considering I had my 442 up in the air for a month when I installed headers and made an exhaust for it, and my E21 for most of last summer... very. 😁 the empty Beetle weighs the equivalent of two of my garden tractors do so I’m not worried at all. I do have two stands and a stack of wheels under it for added benefit. I’m more trusting of the quick jack than I am of stands; it holds my 4000 lb X3 without issue.

[Marinablau703]

Only able to get a little done today, but I did score 2 new side tarboards and a passenger quarter from a friend of mine.


Tarboards out, and port side isn't bad at all. The quarter beneath the shelf needs a little patchwork, but nothing crazy.

The starboard side, however... yeah, that's gonna need some hot glue.

Ahhhhh!!! The Death Foam!!!! This will have to go.

I was hoping, based on how clean the exterior is, that a previous owner had extracted the foam, but nope. In fact, they added to it (which I'd already removed at the time of these pics).

I would have had the fan shroud off, but there is a seized tin screw beneath the thermostat that is holding me up, and I didn't feel like dragging out the welder tonight to weld a head to the screw, so that will be tomorrow Then alternator off, intake off, exhaust off... looking forward to it.

[Rome]

Now that you have the engine out, will you take 1/2 hr to clean the underside of the engine lid? A pint of kerosene in a HD plastic squirt bottle set to a wide mist, work it in with a parts cleaning brush (wear goggles and solvent-resistant gloves), then rinse off with a spray of WD-40 and paper shop towels... Have plenty of newspaper on the floor to absorb the run-off.

[Marinablau703]

Not sure if I can spare a half hour, but I'll definitely devote 25 minutes.

[Marinablau703]

Had a nice little Saturday. Got far enough to know what I need to know.

Some tins gone.

#3 cylinder didn't quite want to separate from the head.

Port side head, IIRC. Yuk.

#1 and 2.

Think the port side was running a little hot?

At's all fun and games until the carbon comes off.

Tins and intake getting a good soak.

Clutch, PP and flywheel. How do they look?

So, it was fortuitous that my break-down a few weeks ago occurred, as it led me down this rabbit hole. Yeah, that was a simple fuel pump, but I needed to do an exhaust, and rectify the oil leaks. The oil cooler seals were leaking, but the worst leaks occurred out of the pushrod tubes (these weren't just weeping, but actively gushing oil), out of the cylinder-head joints, and the cylinder-case joints. After talking with my friend who runs an air cooled restoration shop, he's going to order me 044 heads with big valves, a new clutch and TO bearing (I'm in there, so that falls into the might as well category), and a Kuhltek 87mm P&C set. In the meanwhile, I'm going to clean up the #3 cylinder, get it back on the case, and loosely get the heads back on so that I can clean the crap off the case (which I should have done first, but I wanted to know what I had so that I know what I need to order). Looks like my new MIG/TIC/Stick welder is going to have to wait, its budget is being diverted.

[Marinablau703]

Lots of work and few posts. I'll get caught up a little bit:

After pulling out the rear tarboards, as noted previously, I discovered I had to replace the shelf, and parts of the quarter that it attached to. A friend who owns an air cooled restoration shop gave me one.

This was "supposed" to be a simple fuel pump replacement and fan shroud clearing that "somehow" morphed, and I really don't have the time nor the energy to go that far on this right now (the car is occupying valuable real estate in my shop) and I did not want to cut out and replace the entire quarter, so I cut out most of the rot and welded in a panel I'd made of a spare GM door skin I had lying around.

Then, welded in the new shelf. Fit wasn't quite "perfect" and required some persuasion. As I am doing all this work inside, I figured I'd finally get a bottle of CO2/Argon and MIG weld, opposed to FCAW. I mean, I've only had this welder for 8 years and have done all my body work using FCAW. While I've welded with gas many time in the past, I've never used THIS welder (Lincoln HandyMIG 110) with gas, so it took a little while to dial it in. I'd switched its polarity to DC+ as MIG is *supposed* to have, and welds were horrible. It wasn't until I, on a whim, switched back to the DC- polarity that FCAW wants did the welds come out constant. Having infinite heat settings would have certainly helped prevent blow-through, but knowing the patch will sit behind the tarboard, I admittedly put only about 50% into it. I had been planning on getting a new MP 240v welder (FCAW/MIG/Stick/TIG), but "project creep" seriously ate into my budget.

Sprayed with rust converter. It's since been primed and painted.

Started buttoning up the engine. New parts arrived from Brazil! 87mm AA P&Cs, and while Kuhltek heads were ordered, AA heads arrived. I didn't do the ordering, I'd left that to the discretion of my friend who does this for a living. Scarce parts availability was to blame; parts arrived within 2-3 weeks of ordering. He did say the heads that arrived were the better of the heads offered, so I'm fine with that. I removed the pistons from the cylinders to make sure the rings were spaced where I wanted them, everything was sufficiently oiled (but not too much!), and installed the new pistons to the old connecting rods. I couldn't discern any play on the rods themselves, so I opted to let sleeping dogs lie on the rod bearings. After a very light and quick sand with emory on the ends of the jugs (just to clean up any rough casting/defects) and clean-up with Brakeleen, I used the paper gaskets and Permatex Indian Shellac to seal the jugs to the case. I'd ordered all new studs, but found that I had 4 too many medium length studs and 4 too few short studs, so I had to dig out the old ones, clean them up, and re-install them. I used Loctite on the studs into the case. One of the longer studs did NOT want to come out, so rather than forcing it (I usually make things worse when I do) and pulling threads out of the case, I left that one in; it was so happy in its home! New pushrod tubes with new white seals (seams UP of course). I remembered the sub-cylinder tins when I got to pulling off the starboard side cylinders, AFTER torquing the port side cylinders, so dopey me had to pull the head back off quickly (before the shellac set up), install the tin (pushrod tubes blocked it), and retorque. Yes, I made sure to install the small 1.5" tins that clip into the underside of the heads. Installed the new oil cooler and nice soft new seals. Next up is the fuel pump, and the Lego set of tins. I'd found some holes in the rear belly tin and one of the sleds and had ordered new ones, but the rear belly that arrived didn't have the provision for the pre-heater hose (which I knew when I ordered it; what I didn't know is that it has a different shape and didn't allow me to cut a hole), so I patched it with JB Steelweld, sanded it down and painted it. Seeing how well that worked, I'll do the same with the sled and return both.

I must say, I thought the old engine ran great; it had sufficient power (for a Beetle) and could easily keep up with traffic. This, despite the overheating, cracked head, and compression low enough that I could turn the engine over simply by pulling the belt (pushrods out). Now, compression fights me, which is nice to feel. Waiting on new pushrods from either AC.net or WW (I couldn't discern any appreciable warp on the old ones, but they're cheap enough so I'd rather start fresh), rocker adjustment studs and nuts before I set to make sure the oil passages in the shafts are clear. Why new studs/nuts? When I adjusted the valves when I'd first got the car, the studs were VERY hard to turn, and the driver slots started to hog out from driver slippage. *personal rant*: slotted and phillips fasteners have NO place on ANYTHING mechanical, especially when torque is involved. Hex/Allen, or Tor-x/E-tor-x ONLY. Force should be used to turn a fastener, NOT keep the tool IN the fastener. End rant.**

I'll see what else I can get done over the next few days: tins on, fender on. I replaced the aft engine mounts but still need to replace the trans nose mount (rear wheels currently stored under the trans for safety) and cut off the barrel adjusters on the heater cables, and finish exterior engine assembly. I'd also pulled the gas tank when welding, and then cleaned up its seat in the trunk, along with the tank itself, and painted it. Inside, it was very clean; just a swish with Ospho and a rinse was all that was needed. Filter will be relocated below the tank.

[Marinablau703]

I also still need to pull the flywheel to replace the gland nut/pilot bearing, o ring, RMS, and ensure the flywheel is properly shimmed to spec. I ordered a flywheel lock; while I don't need it to remove the nut, I will to torque it back to spec. I also have a new Sachs clutch kit (disk, pressure plate, alignment tool; with lifetime warranty, it's the last clutch kit I'll ever have to purchase; if the clutch needs replacing in the future, simply send it back and get a new one. FCP does the same with oil; they'll accept used oil, and send new oil for only the cost of shipping).

My charcoal canister is completely rotted; I thought one from a Suzuki Jimny could be easily adapted to fit (similar overall shape and only $3, but it measured considerably larger and would probably have contacted the rear wheel, so I didn't order it. Not sure what I'll do there, but I've got time for that.

[Marinablau703]

Quick shot of the engine with upper tins laid in place. Cleaned, primed, and painted of course.

[Marinablau703]

After battling for a few hours in 90* temps last week to get the engine back in, the engine is still out of the car. I'd thought the angle was wrong, or the clutch was hanging up on the tranmission shaft. Pulling the engine out of the way, I discovered the old clutch was difficult to get on the shaft; the ends of its splines where a little knurled. So, I cleaned them up with a small file, and cured that. Still no luck with getting the engine that last half inch to mate with the transmission. I pulled the old clutch completely off in order to check the dimensions of the pressure place and throwout bearing compared to the old; they're the same. The new clutch is about 2mm thicker than the old one, but that's because the old one has reached potato chip status. Beating my head against the wall (and car), though, I started to think the throwout bearing wasn't releasing all the way, preventing the engine from going home. The cable wing nut was beyond half-way forward toward the chassis, and the wingnut snapped an ear upon removal. So, when looking on WW for a new cable, I saw a diagram that also made me realize that I should have a clutch return spring on the side of the transmission, which I do not. So, the failure of being able to install the engine turned out to be QUITE fortuitous.

Engine ready

New tarboards cut and installed

half inch away from salvation

Sitting on the ground

[Marinablau703]

After weeks lost due to work trips to OBX and Key Largo, FL, and then being at sea for 3 days, I finally got the engine in. New clutch cable, throwout bearing shaft bushings and return spring, yet the engine still wouldn't go the last half inch!!! I would have lit the car on fire if it wouldn't have concurrently taken out my shop, until I noticed some marks on the damned engine mount bolts inside the bell housing. Turns out the flywheel was contacting them! Hacked them down flush to their respective nuts and the engine slid in within seconds like it's supposed to. Cables, wires, hoses, etc. all hooked up, wheels on, car on the ground. Just gotta replace the master cylinder so that I can install the fuel tank, hopefully within a couple of days, and she'll be able to make noise!

[Marinablau703]

New master cylinder, and of course engine, installed! I thought I had an issue with it not starting, until I pulled the air filter off and noticed that no fuel was squirting in the carb until several manual throttle pumps. After that, it started instantly. I still need to fine tune the carb and timing, but I took it out for 5-7 miles to break in the jugs and heads, and will be changing the oil tomorrow. As soon as I started the car, though, I kept blowing fuse #1 (left tail light... I know, it should be right, but the left is more intuitive to remember). After tracing questionable, and inconsistent, voltage, resistance and continuity readings, I finally traced the issue to a faulty headlight switch. Apparently, when pulled to position 1, the switch was shorting out internally against the interior light circuit (tails/parking is 8A, interior lights are 16A). Because the door was always open during testing, and therefore triggering the interior light circuit, the parking/tail lights attempted to pull 16A and immediately pop the fuse. I ordered a new one, but in the mean while have a slightly different switch from a last '60s car in its place, and working fine.

[Marinablau703]

Last week, I did a 5-7 mile ring-seating romp, and changed the oil. Adusted the valves the next day. Then, put the car on a dolly and dragged 180 miles to Eastern LI to use the car as a station car; the 17 mile varied commute from my house to Orient Point, as I figured that would be a great way to continue to break in the engine, the car won't see more than a couple miles at at time at my house Upstate NY. After one more commute, I'll have just over 100 miles on the oil in it, and ready for another drain. After sitting overnight (a relatively cool overnight), I adjusted the valves again yesterday morning and only had to adjust out half a thousandth, compared to a few thousandths last week. Temps had approached 95* last week, but even so, I could comfortably grab and hold the dipstick after the trip to work. Due to it being a case-out rebuild, and the vent cover on the decklid, I am utilizing the tennis-ball trick as I don't see a reason not to, better safe than sorry. The new rear breastplate seal I bought doesn't have a great fit and left a half-inch gap, so I filled it with the black foam copper pipe insulation, split lengthwise and pushed over the rear breastplate edge, and fits great.

[Buggeee]

I just got caught up on your thread. You really did a lot of work on it this summer! The engine looks fantastic and I am a big fan of the 8 spoke wheels. It was satisfying to get to the posts about the break-in drives and final valve adjustments. What a cool car to commute with.
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(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[Marinablau703]

[Buggeee]

[Rome]

I'm glad the engine rebuild is working out for you, Marina! Good work with the underside of the engine lid (hopefully 25 minutes was sufficient )! Now the entire engine bay looks like a united effort.

[Marinablau703]

Thanks guys; I'd hardly say that anything I've done is even close to Concours or even clean, especially considering some of the builds here, but I'll take the compliments.

My plan for the car is to treat it to a more thorough freshening later on when my kid is old enough to enjoy it; though, at not even 3, he knows which screwdriver to reach for to remove the taillights, along with which screws will adjust the carb (though of course not knowing how to do it). The goal now is to have a reliable driver and slowly turn back the hands of time (and rust). I'm currently working through trenching new power to my barn, including new attachments both in the house and in the barn (I lost both legs of its 220v service this Summer), "simple" axle seals on my '65 plow tractor has turned in to an engine rebuild and splitting the transaxle to replace axle bushings too, the '84 and '86 have their occasional hiccups, my wife took off work for the year due to a newborn leaving me working 60 hours a week (but driving 200 miles each way for one of the jobs to do it)... so yeah I didn't want to be one of those guys who tears the car apart, gets sidetracked, and the next thing you know, 20 years goes by. VWs are for driving and enjoying, no matter what they look like.

Thanks again for the kind words. I'll update further once the car gets home and I can do more. I'm sure the battery tray job and seats will snowball.

On a side note, I do wish posting pictures here was more user-friendly; other fora that I'm a member of allows single-click embedding of photos right into the post without having to upload to the gallery and then select from the gallery. That makes it difficult when attempting to update from a portable device.

[Marinablau703]