Rear Hatch Seal and gap (photos included)

[markeaton]

Good morning-

Last night I placed in my rear seal on my 1966. It went in easily, did not need adhesive and the door shut without issues.

But... in the 4th photo, when I got close, I noticed I could see through a gap in just this one area. Should I pull the seal slightly out from the frame as it is seated, or does somehow my door need adjusting?

Thank you
-Mark

[busdaddy]

Looks like it need adjusting, the hinge can be moved where it bolts to the door, I'd start by loosening the top bolt and lifting up on the door a bit before retightening. Careful, a little goes a long way, put tape around the edges of the opening and along the edges of the hatch, then close it very slowly watching for interference. Some marks around the hinge in it's current position will help too in case you have to put it back where it was and start over.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[markeaton]

Thank you busdaddy.... will try that tonight !!!

[j.pickens]

Also be mindful of the hatch torsion bar tension.
Do not lower the hatch while the hinge bolts are loose.
It can get dangerous.
_________________
Founder and Chairman Emeritus, ECMSAS
BBX BBXII and BBXXI Long Distance Award Winner

[markeaton]

I was able to loosen the two sets of bolts on each side of the hinge/door. It was tricky for sure. I tried 3-4 times to get it to seat correctly.

I was real close, but realized that I really need one more pair of hand to help me, one on each side to loosen/tighten almost simultaneously to seat 100% perfect.

While I do need to adjust it slightly again, busdaddy's comments helped my and j.pickens, I agree with you and the tension was quite present.

Thanks to all for help.

[mandraks]

it is also normal for the rubbers to be quite stiff at first. they will settle a little and close better. that was true from new.
_________________
regards

Uli

----------------------------------------
'53 3-Fold Oval, L35 Metallic Blue, looking for a narrow hatch panel

[velvetgreen]

x2 repro rubber is well known to be far stiffer than original and will cause the rear hatch to require more force to close

[markeaton]

Surprisingly the rubber (more like sponge) fit in well. No issue at all. I used Wolfsburg West product and fit 100% perfect https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211829193C

[markeaton]

The tension I had was not from the seal, but the upper hinges. Which I think adds to a great open and close.

[hitest]

Some folks (me included based on advice here) loosen the striker "catch" plate bolts right after the new seal goes in. Then every couple weeks- slide the striker closer in to the trunk and tighten. It's a graduated break in of the seal. Eventually it will close flush and seal well again.
_________________