1968 Daily Driver Build

[1968BUGMAN]

Yeah if the car is almost all stock then it is cool to leave it that way. My car came with quite a few things non stock so I never had a problem taking things off. Plus in regards to the brakes specifically the were completely warped and the shoes were glazed, the piston things were leaking. Pretty much they had to be replaced. If you ever decide on discs I would recommend only fronts. This is because good drums in the back will probably perform better especially in regards to the e brake. The one nice thing with rear discs is that the pads, calipers, and e brake cables can be replaced without removing the axle nut.
_________________
1968 Beetle Project | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...ae8942450a
Installing a Stereo Into a Classic VW | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9502179#9502179

[AutoMechanic]

Yes that is nice. I always have liked rear drums best on most cars anyway. Just pads and rotors are easier to deal with lol.

[1968BUGMAN]

So my battery has kind of been dying and I had to get the last one warrantied. I'm hoping they warranty the new one cus its kind of dead now too. I replaced the alternator to battery wire because it looked sketchy and it seemed to help a bit. I also ended up buying a 75 amp alternator from IAP performance on amazon for $107 it comes this week. Hopefully this helps a bit. I have high wattage headlights so they draw a bit more power. I am eventually going to get some led fog/running lights so that I can turn off my regular headlights and use those in my neighborhood to conserve some power and make sure the battery is charged when I turn the engine off. If I cant get the battery replaced I will get a larger AGM battery.
_________________
1968 Beetle Project | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...ae8942450a
Installing a Stereo Into a Classic VW | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9502179#9502179

[Michael Ambrozik]

If you over heated the front discs and the rotors are a blue color you will need to replace them. The rotors are also warped a bit and squeak. Tring to get them turned may help but it will be easier and cost less to replace. The overheating may have also melted the grease at the bearings. The last thing you would want is to have bad bearings. Remove them and make sure they didn't get damaged. other than that the car looks good. Are you going to put a head linier in?

[1968BUGMAN]

Yes, I thought that too. And I ended up leaving my ebrake on and driving 10min, the brake pads ended up smoking pretty bad and one caught on fire, just a small fire though. Anyways, I had thought that I ruined them, but after a week of driving they were no longer blue and they still work fine. As for the fronts its the same story, they are no longer blue. They also arent warped, and while I was having squealing, it has since resided and only vary rarely does it show up. Eventually I will probably get new rotors but for now they work. I do keep meaning to bleed the brakes though to get rid of any bad fluid that would have boiled.
_________________
1968 Beetle Project | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...ae8942450a
Installing a Stereo Into a Classic VW | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9502179#9502179

[Michael Ambrozik]

If you are worried about boiled fluid, flush the system.

[1968BUGMAN]

I decided that I wanted to mount my kick panels better. I decided that I wanted to use 4 riv nuts to hold the panel on. I got a riv nut gun for $38 on amazon and it worked really well. Then I drilled holes in the kick panel where I wanted the screws to be. I then marked where they went through on the car so that I could drill holes in the car to put the nuts in. I then put the nuts in. I also wanted to install the speakers better while the kick panels were out. I thought that the tweeter mount looked kinda janky so I decided to mount it in the kick panel, to drill the hole I used a hole saw attatchment on my drill. For the 6.5 I used speaker gasket material around the hole before the speaker was placed in so that it would create a seal. I then used some speaker spacer things that the speakers came with and cut off the tabs and then screwed the speakers to it so that it would be a little more ridged than without it. I used a socket cap screw and nuts to attach the speaker. Next I wanted to create a better seal around the kick panel since I am not carpeting it. For this I used 1" by 1" adhesive back foam made for sealing window ac units. It worked great, I doubled it up in one spot so that it would touch the metal. Then I wired it up and screwed it together. It does sound a little better with some more midbass, but mostly it just looks better and is much more solid.

_________________
1968 Beetle Project | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...ae8942450a
Installing a Stereo Into a Classic VW | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9502179#9502179

[1968BUGMAN]

You know what I forgot that recently I installed a new alternator. Basically the battery was dying, when I would but it on a charger it would hover around 12.6 and then every time I drove it the voltage would end up a bit lower. Eventually it didnt start. I replaced the wire from the alternator to the battery hoping that it accounted for some of the problem. The wire that was there was only connected by 3 strands, I put it the 8 gauge that I used for my stereo. It helped a little but defiantly did not fix anything. I figured out that the memory always on power on my head unit was drawing more amps than it should, but this shouldnt account for this amount of voltage drop. Anyways, I figured that it wold probably be the alternator. I wanted a slightly higher amp alt, around 75 amps, and I didnt want to pay a fortune, so I found an IAP performance amp on amazon for $100, I also got a new strap for it. It took me about 1 and a half hours to replace it, and I had to use an impact driver to get the nut of the fan, but it was a largely successful install. I saw that there was a little screw on the body of the alternator, presumably for a ground. I heard some people saying that you should ground the body of the alternator, and despite the fact that the stand should ground it, I decided to use a wire to the body anyways. Now while driving my battery voltage is around 14.6 and down to 14.3 when the alt gets hot. When I turn my headlights on it still sits around 14.1 which is much higher than the 13.6 that it was at before. Hopefully, the alternator lasts for a while because I really like it.
_________________
1968 Beetle Project | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...ae8942450a
Installing a Stereo Into a Classic VW | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9502179#9502179

[Buggeee]

Good news all the way around
_________________
1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[1968BUGMAN]

Just ordered a new exhaust! It is a polished ceramic Tri Mil 2 tip, that and some Ceramic j tubes together is around $380. The exhuast is from So Cal imports, and the j tubes, gaskets, clamps, and new nuts are all from J Bugs,.
I did some work for a friends bus a while back and got a bit of money which I will put towards it. Seems like a good price. Ive heard bad things about the Empi 2 tip so I was hesitant, but people insisted that this one dynos similarly to a quiet pack up to about 90hp. So well see how it works. The ceramic looks nice, and should keep temps down. I am very excited to get this thing. It sounds good in videos, seems a bit quieter than what I am running, and will have waaay more ground clearance. Also, another update, I replaced my shifter with another stock one that I had lying around, it shifts a lot better now. Also, I filled up some gaps including the the heater tubes that go through the fire wall with expanding foam, I also tried to fill the gap where the wiring harness goes through to help reduce carb noise, I do think it got at least a bit quieter, but the 34 icts arent loud to begin with like my old 44 idfs. Hopefully the new exhaust will make it that last bit quieter in the cabin. Plus I can get the what I think is an Empi Phat boy off my car. It sounds great, but it is a bit loud for me, and it scrapes everywhere. Then the next step is probably running boards, and maybe a new carpet kit. Also, a proper front end alignment is definitely in my future. Also if anybody knows what a relay in the hood of a type 3 would do that would be helpful as I cant figure it out.
_________________
1968 Beetle Project | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...ae8942450a
Installing a Stereo Into a Classic VW | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9502179#9502179

[1968BUGMAN]

Okay so what is this stuff. This is my Oil funnel tube. This is all in the filler and in the breather tube. What is it and how to I get rid of it?

_________________
1968 Beetle Project | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...ae8942450a
Installing a Stereo Into a Classic VW | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9502179#9502179

[1968BUGMAN]

So I got my exhaust today and it is way slower. Like noticing the car doesn't want to move. Now one j tube does have a small leak where it meets the muffler, this may he why it's a bit loud, but I wouldn't expect it to reduce power. I really don't think that this would make my car any slower. I mean dyno test show it only reduces about 3hp from a single qp, this shouldn't really be that noticeable. I am also having backfire so maybe it needs the valves adjusted and it's just a coincidence?
_________________
1968 Beetle Project | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...ae8942450a
Installing a Stereo Into a Classic VW | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9502179#9502179

[Brian]

[1968BUGMAN]

Well it's daily driven so I cant really drove it more, but thanks for the help.
_________________
1968 Beetle Project | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...ae8942450a
Installing a Stereo Into a Classic VW | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9502179#9502179

[1968BUGMAN]

Anyways I went back and tightened all of the bolts for the exhaust, I adjusted mixture and adjusted timing. My timing at full advance was 35 degrees I changed it to 32. It idles a bit slower now so I will have to sync the carbs and bring the idle up about 200 rpm. The exhaust seems to have quieted down, and I think I have a similar drivability as before so that is good. Although the exhaust is not quiet at all. Probably similar to what I had before. I love the ground clearance that this gave me though. I also took off the camber compensator because it was causing the tranny to leak a bit. That lowered the car about 1". I noticed the tranny is also leaking out of the cv boot. I am currently saving for a new tranny/engine. Probably going to get one from Rancho. Their street tranny with freeway flyer and maybe a 1776 longblock from MOFOCO, which will eventually turbod. But that will be a long ways in the future. I will post photos with the new exhaust in a little bit.
_________________
1968 Beetle Project | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...ae8942450a
Installing a Stereo Into a Classic VW | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9502179#9502179

[VW_Jimbo]

[1968BUGMAN]

Fascinating, I've never heard of that before. Thanks guys! A long drive seems to be in store for me.
_________________
1968 Beetle Project | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...ae8942450a
Installing a Stereo Into a Classic VW | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9502179#9502179

[1968BUGMAN]

Wow, it has been a long time since Ive posted. I have done so much work since then. So yes the yogurt looking stuff went away, so thank you. Also, I got the new exhuast installed, its looking good, but it makes it obvious that the body isnt centered. I love the better ground clearance.

Also, I broke a clutch cable which meant I had to replace the bowden tube, which meant that it broke part of the metal tube for the clutch that goes through the tunnel. It broke it right at the end which meant that the bowden couldn't sit on it and have a bend in it. This caused excessive chattering which broke the nose cone tranny mount. This made the car have terrifying acceleration when you let of the clutch. So to get it drivable I put in an EMPI mid mount until I could get the engine out. This stopped the acceleration but there was still a clunking when I let off the gas. I kept driving it though.

So I finally broke down and bought all new tin, a full flow oil pump with filter, a new welded fan, new emulsion tubes and idle jets, firewall tarboard and new tranny mounts and I found a weekend to install it all. That weekend was a couple days ago, it took probably 15 hours total to install it all, and there werent too many snags. Although it took way to long to get the engine in, to fix that we put the ebrake on so that the transmission splines wouldnt move and it could align with the engine. I then put in new full synthetic 5W-30 oil and started it up. It started quickly as expected, and ran fine, so I took it for a drive. After the drive I noticed it was leaking oil from the oil pump so two days later I went to remove the filter to add silicone gasket maker in and figured out that the leak was actually from a crack/chip in the block right next to the pump that was exposing the gasket, so I got JB weld putty that should be oil and water resistent and put it on. The next morning (today) I lowered the car, and drove to school, so far it has not leaked, so I'm hopeful.

New clutch tube

Firewall painted and tarboard in (couldnt get in the side tarboards and had to cut the main one a bit)

Moved the fuel filter to the right spot, replaced fuel lines with braided line, and added metal fuel tube through firewall (I had to cut the metal tube though)

Engine out tin off and new filter on

Had to cut pulley tin to put it over the oil pump

Tins on!

Engine back!

_________________
1968 Beetle Project | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...ae8942450a
Installing a Stereo Into a Classic VW | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9502179#9502179

[1968BUGMAN]

Also, the starter broke a few weeks ago, forgot to mention that. But I got a new one in and it fires right up better than ever. The old one drew so many amps that the 1/0 gauge started power wire was too hot to touch.
_________________
1968 Beetle Project | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...ae8942450a
Installing a Stereo Into a Classic VW | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9502179#9502179

[Rome]

The firewall insulation is upside-down- those 3 cutouts "at the bottom" are supposed to be up top to accomodate the engine lid hinges and the center spring!

If you still have the side panels and did not cut them, put those on first when you have the firewall insulation off. But to do that, you'll need to take the engine out "again" so you might not want to bother now. The firewall insulation side edges overlap the side panel insulation.