The most boring build you ever watched... 1385cc

[Chickensoup]

just fitty mo bucks and just like that ive got all the parts to finish this build minus machine shop cost($75ish bucks).

I decided to go with a stock cam because cheater cams are out of stock and because i want to try out cb's stock grinds. although im not sure if they are the same as their stock eagle cams just minus the Parkerizing or whichever the coating they use is.


The only issue i can think of right now goes like this.

Im using a 6mm oil pump.
i have a 8mm full flow cover.
the stud spacing is different.
so i need an offset bushing.
if i make my own bushing, can this easily be done with a lathe by adjusting the head? or will i eff things up trying that?

thanks
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[evanfrucht]

Nice parts

The cover is just a cover, it doesnt need to line up with anything on the gears really, just needs to cover the hole so the pump can make pressure. If it was an 8mm pump on the 6mm studs you might have more to worry about, like if it got offset to one side it might interfere with how it engages with the cam slot. But you probably already knew that.

If you are asking if it will it screw up the lathe, I have no idea
_________________
1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )

[Matthew]

I noticed that you have two sets of 32mm valves in the cart. Doesn’t the 40hp head use 32mm intakes and 30mm exhaust?
_________________
1965 Beetle sedan
Click to view image

[Chickensoup]

[Alstrup]

If the 2280s have a long waiting, then take the next best, a W90 cam. That engine will need all the help it can get to breathe.
Or even better, a Pauter B4E7.
_________________
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993

[Chickensoup]

[Lingwendil]

A stock cam after all that work seems to me more of a compromise for sure! Find a CB2280 from a distributor of them, or go with one of Alstrup's suggestions. I can vouch for the 2280, I've used several and really like them. My favorite build ever used one.

https://vwparts.aircooled.net/Eagle-Type-1-Camshaft-Cheater-Cam-Grind-CB2280-p/cb2280.htm

https://www.piersideparts.net/CB2280.html
_________________
73 super beetle thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=649622 Back on the Road!

Modify your Kadrons for SVDA http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8115884#8115884

Cast iron VJU4BR8 SVDA reference thread- https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

Need replacement filters for original Kadron aircleaners? WIX #42087 is a perfect fit, as is Napa Gold #2087!

[Chickensoup]

What about, a german reground camshaft ground to w90 specs? Anything wrong with reground cams? Will the wear on the cam journals and lifter OD's be an issue?

The numbers seem to be a good match with these heads
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[Lingwendil]

From a reputable place, yeah. Just get matching lifters that are also reground, or I think the orange box stock brasilian ones from CB will work?

Ask the vendor you will order from what they recommend to match them.
_________________
73 super beetle thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=649622 Back on the Road!

Modify your Kadrons for SVDA http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8115884#8115884

Cast iron VJU4BR8 SVDA reference thread- https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

Need replacement filters for original Kadron aircleaners? WIX #42087 is a perfect fit, as is Napa Gold #2087!

[Chickensoup]

I was looking at these. Still waiting for a reply on if he does any w90 grinds.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2378611
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[evanfrucht]

That might just be something he had reground then never used

You might be better off just finding some place with a w90 in stock or go with something else similar. There are lots of options, Dan Ruddock has something in stock called an 86+3 which is very mild, may be worth looking into, you could give him a call and see what he recommends.

I've heard that reground cams, especially ones that need welding, are not as durable as new quality peice.
_________________
1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )

[Chickensoup]

Good new everybody! Cheater cams are in stock again.

Bad new everybody! My daily driver needs even more money plus its time for me to upgrade from my current dirtbike, im honestly really sick of Chinese crap breaking and me bottoming out and breaking my back. Sooo im thinking a crf750? JK. although an old BSA or 80s honda would be nice. However due to this, im only ordering bottom end parts.

More good news! I found a machine shop near me that can grind the crank and resurface the flywheel.

Now the real question. are aftermarket cam gears "0" gears? the old timing gear from this engine was a "-1". so if new gears in in fact 0, then it shouldn't be an issue right?


Oh, and does anyone make full flow covers for 6mm stud patterns?

thanks
either that or i find a used cam with the correct backlash setting.
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[evanfrucht]

Probabaly won't be an issue since they were so close, but you'll want to check the backlash regardless. IIRC my original one was -1 and corroded, so I replaced it with a +1 and my lash ended up perfect. I think you can get aftermarket gears that are sized, but they may be harder to come by. You can also just drill out a used one in good condition that is -1 just to be safe, or later on if you have trouble with the aftermarket one. I've heard even ones that's are marked the same size aren't always exactly the same.
_________________
1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )

[Lingwendil]

From my understanding the cam gears are kind of whatever you get, sort of a machining tolerances lottery. Mine from CB fit well, but I hear good things from others here about the cam gears from mofoco. He has them made specific for him, may be worth a shot if you're nervous?

Sucks on the daily driver thing. Just sold my 96 civic with 300k on it. It was literally falling apart and needed a complete suspension rebuild. Picked up a really nice 07 jetta to replace it, and after two months it started overheating due to a sticking thermostat. Had the thing fixed but it was a logistical nightmare to work around for the few days it was in the shop. I had it done by someone else due to lack of time and lots of joint pain causing me issues lately, so it was a bit more money than I had hoped to spend, but I'm still into the car just a few thousand total so I'm not upset. Lovely car, that inline five engine is pretty strong and very responsive.

Still need to get my super in the garage
_________________
73 super beetle thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=649622 Back on the Road!

Modify your Kadrons for SVDA http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8115884#8115884

Cast iron VJU4BR8 SVDA reference thread- https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

Need replacement filters for original Kadron aircleaners? WIX #42087 is a perfect fit, as is Napa Gold #2087!

[modok]

the way the full flow cover was ORIGINALLY DONE,
is weld or braze a nut to the stock steel cover, drill and tap for pipe thread.
you might say wait...the hole is coming out the back?
well yes, but you use a 90 degree fitting and aim it as needed.
I am sure there is a picture of that in the samba galleries, but have no idea how I'd be able to find it.

I like the idea of the aluminum cover better, you can make those too.
Or, you design it i make it.
Or, I design it, you make it. I'm flexible

[Chickensoup]

[modok]

I run a CB pump and cover, it does not use any gasket and it does not leak.
With steel, there is difference of expansion as it heats up and cools down, and you probably have to run a gasket to make it seal.

I have a CPS cover and that's pretty nice, but it's not perfect, it's kinda..... thin
They use 1" thick material, and 3/8 pipe thread....and that's ok... but it's not super thick around the pipe thread, probably .170 wall thickness around the pipe thread...... and that's enough to work but you might want to sand it flat AFTER installing the fitting in it, easy fix!
but it's anodized
Tapered threads can generate a LOT of force and cause it to bulge out around the pipe fitting.
I notice CB hangs the pipe fitting off to the side of the pump a ways, so the the "bulge" is not hurting anything and that's clever. OR you may not really need 3/8 pipe thread, 1/4 can be adequate for smaller pumps at lower rpms. Really depends on the application, how much ROOM there is and if it has to clear the rear engine mount bar. I THINK you have all the room in the world in this case...nothing to hit.

The last time I made one, I remember I thought to myself.... next time I will make the main thickness .600 thick and the the "nut seats" countersunk .200 down (so .400 thick)
Or, could make it .500 thick and and countersink the the nuts .200, something like that. I see you ahve already done tht on the plan, tho less extreme.
starting with 1" thick material.... I just see no reason to reduce the thickness further than necessary. Ultimately it is the top studs & nuts which will hit the pulley tin if they stick out too far, so good to countersink the bolt seats and that gains you clearance, but really no reason to make thinner in-between the bolts. the weight savings is hardly worth it.
As you have designed it it looks beefy enough, but has no dimensions on the plan. And the plan could change once you price out material.
6061 or whatever common stuff they have should be fine. Stronger than oil pump itself.

[Chickensoup]

i will make a blueprint 2marrow with dimensions however, right now the base plate is 13mm thick

_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[Chickensoup]

_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[modok]

Looks good!
I don't know what the 12mm hole is for. It does not have to be pipe thread, it could be any kind of fitting you want I suppose.