Evan’s Garage Built Rod: The Birth of a 2180cc Street Machine

[Wreck]

I love this sort of thread , I'f you don't have it , make it . To me this is what custom work is all about . Doesn't have to be mega bucks ,just a bit of hard work and attention to detail . great stuff !!



A type 4 DTM shroud and bits was going to cost $2000 Aussie dollars by the time I imported it , so I designed and made my own centre mount , centred shroud . the cost was a lot of time but not a big out lay . just some timber and fibreglass .

[evanfrucht]

[UK Luke 72]

Very nicely done and documented.
The OE+ style breather looks fantastic, what is the finish on it?
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2276 Beetle build https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=670744&highlight=2276+beetle+daily
2276 EFI Conversion https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=689172

[evanfrucht]

[evanfrucht]

I have a few quick updates.

I still need to find time to upload more pictures, lol.

I just began to tear into the used swap meet carb bundle I picked up when I was just getting started on this build. At this point I have the 45 DRLA's apart and am in the process of ordering parts I need. The plan with them is clean, rebuild, replace throttle shaft bearings, and change the jetting. Someone also put some very odd short velcity stacks on these carbs which are kind of a mystery. Rick (Mcdragracer) will be providing me with the parts and has given me some helpful advice so far. Thanks!

I have pretty much completed the fabrication of custom exhaust and peashooter muffler (w/ modified sidewinder header.) I just ordered a titanium colored ceramic coating from a company called Cerakote which I am going to apply to all exhaust conponents myself. https://www.cerakote.com/shop/cerakote-coating/C-7900/cerakote-glacier-titanium

It's been extremely and constantly windy here for the last couple months and seems like it's never going to end. I decided to modify my fan shroud further and then had to repaint it yet again. The wind it makes it very hard to keep dust out of fresh paint and I don't have a spray booth or sealed garage to paint in at home. It turned out pretty well given the circumstances.

Things toward the flywheel end of the crank did not go super smoothly, but all is well now. That was a relief... there was a brief scare where I thought I might have damaged my crank threads but thankfully I did not. Gland nut went in nice and smooth and is currently torqued to 350 foot pounds with my giant proto click torque wrench (and w/ a large helping of loctite 640 retaining compound on threads as per the Berg instructions.) Before all that I also managed to miscalculate my endplay and then had to pull the main seal back off to replace the shims with thinner ones. Luckily I ended up at a perfect .0031" with no funny business.

More on all that to come
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1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )

[evanfrucht]

I got a little ahead of myself Here are the pictures from the case assembly which pretty much speak for themselves. On the case mating surface I used a combination of Threebond 1184 (around perimeter) and good ol'fashion aviation sealer (just on the bearing web areas.) I also used the Threebond on the case head studs, underneath the main stud washers, cam plug, and under a couple of the case studs that are known to leak, the one's back down toward the flywheel area. I used a combination of both paste and syrup like assembly lubes accordingly. Each case nut got a flat washer, then a wavy washer, then a regular M8 nut (I'm pretending my garage is the Wolfsburg factory, LOL!)

Polished the tops of the lifters on the bench just to knock off any sharp edges from the factory grinding/machining marks

I checked the oil pump housing to cam bolt clearance with a zip tie which is the proper thickness (0.04-.06") Bingo!

I didn't forget that darn slinger...

Cam dots lined up, I'm on a roll now

And those grooved cam bearings... I just couldn't help myself

Another oil hole mod close up

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1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )

[evanfrucht]

Gapping those shitty AA rings

I gapped them all to 0.014"

Using upside down piston with the ring installed to get it square in the bore for accurate measurement. It wont be even close to accurate if you put it crooked or freehand.

This one was too tight and needed some minor filing

And then I "honed" the cylinders using some oil and a round foam block wrapped in 400 grit sandpaper. The word hone in question marks because this simply was a very minor surface prep measure. although I did follow the crosshatch pattern, the goal was only really to knock off any sharp or excessively sharp peaks from the potentially rough factory hone job, not actually give it a full new hone, if that makes sense. Then I cleaned extremely well with nylon brushes, more clean oil and lots of solvent. Before and after pics.

Next top end overhaul I plan to get AA's again, but use Grant rings instead of these ones However, I'm not too worried about these for now.
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1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )

[evanfrucht]

Getting the pushrod tubes installed. I used a special type of soft silicone O-Ring. These are softer and thicker than the ones CB sells (CB's are regular 70D hardness and 3/16" thick, where as the ones I am using are 50D and 1/8" thick) Here's the link to the better O-rings https://www.mcmaster.com/1173N212/ I'm using the stainless windage racing pushrod tubes from CB and the side that fits into the head has a larger OD snout than stock. The normal white Elring seals squeeze onto the larger end, BUT they are a very tight fit. I did not like the idea of the seal being compressed and stressed or tensioned before it's even doing it's job. So yes, the stock seals will "fit," but I decided there is room for improvement. Also, do NOT forget those cylinder air deflectors that clip into the head studs. Pictured on the right

Air deflector cylinder tins

Make sure to clean well with some degreaser or solvent and a tube brush. Before this, when I stuck my finger in one it came out all covered in a black oily soot. Like most parts, they DO NOT come from the factory clean, even though the outside looks all nice and shiny.

Looking good! My new experimental seals fit well

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1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )

[modok]

i like your solution with the larger o-rings.
CB supplied ones might be type-4 o-rings
If I am allowed to be picky I would say o-rings should not need sealant, and 518 has cure problems on stainless
But probably going to work.

[evanfrucht]

[calvinater]

What did you seal the case halves with?
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"Albatross"!

[evanfrucht]

[74 Thing]

FYI-you can use the regular white pushrod tube seals on both ends of the CB big mouth pushrod tube. You don't need to use o-rings.

[evanfrucht]

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[evanfrucht]

[[email protected]]

Thanks for the quick reply. After driving a 67 Beetle I recently bought for a while with straight cuts, and some additional trans mounting, I didn’t think it made that much racket. I then started driving a 74 Super I have with helical gears, and I couldn’t believe the noise difference. The Super is due for an upgrade. I was thinking of staying with helical gears, and was looking into the 36hp gears. I think Glenn Ring’s 2180 uses helical gears with a FK-8, and standard dual springs. Thanks

[Teeroy]

Looking at the last few pages pictures again, did you swap out the grooved oil relief piston? Dual relief cases use the solid piston in both positions. The grooved piston is for single relief cases
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Pres. Rivercity VW Club www.rcvwclub.org
Founder Derr Wheat Panzers (DWP)
ARR #3
www.autosportsnorthwest.org

[Chickensoup]

[evanfrucht]

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1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )