HELP! Smoke from a transmission bolt

[JoeM]

Hi there, I hope someone can help with this odd issue.

I removed the clutch cable to do some work on the floor of my Karmann Ghia. When I finished and reconnected the cable the clutch wont fully disengage, and crunches. I replaced the bowden tube, but that didn't fix it. And there is an odd smoke coming from a transmission bolt.


Link


Anyone seen this before?

[crocteau]

Well, the smoke is cool looking, but you already know the clutch cable moves the arm of the fork that presses the throwout bearing against the fingers of the pressure plate to release the clutch disc, and all the speculation in the world won't help you avoid dropping the engine to fix it.

[fes]

There doesn't appear to be any free play on that cable at all from your video..It actually looks so tight that it's pulling on the arm while stationary
Slack it off until you have 1 inch of free play at the pedal before you feel resistance and see what happens
_________________
'68 Campmobile-Pedro
'15 Golf-Stella Blau
'56 Oval-The Turd (for now)

[c21darrel]

Its smoked!!
Looks like too much bend in Bowden tube, you should have free play at peddle. Make sure tube is bottomed out on both ends. Same cable? Check front hook to make sure its in right place. If none of that helps, looks like an engine pull as Charlie suggests.
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[PeteSC]

I'm going to guess something on the clutch, throw out bearing (or the bearing fork) has broken, and with the pedal engaged and the engine turning its creating all sorts of frictional heat from the misalignment of the clutch parts, which is likely the cause of the smoke and difficulty finding gears.

[JoeM]

Thanks everyone. Looks like the answer is the pull the motor. While the engine is out, any suggestions on what other things I should consider doing?

[crocteau]

[Ian Godfrey]

I also like to replace the seal where the input shaft goes into the gearbox
(behind the clutch thrust bearing). Also check for wear on the 'forks' that hold the throwout bearing.

[JoeM]

Great advice everyone!
I'll keep you posted with how this goes

[tacky]

i would think the smoke was from grinding the gears shifting, that is a ton of friction.
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"Everyone reading this is a PO."

[JoeM]

No movement yet on this issue, I've been a little distracted by learning some new skills in Auto Upholstery, I made my first seat and it came up OK I think.

[rbsurfguy]

Looks like it came more than OK Joe!! Good on ya!
Jeff
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1971 Ghia convertible (Body off rebuild)
2019 VW Atlas 4Motion
2012 Passat-Sold


See my build on The Samba at:
Jeff's 71 Vert Restoration/Reassembly http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6...highlight=

[Marcdeb]

That's impressive! Nice work.
_________________
Marc
68 Karmann Ghia Cabrio Autostick
71 Karmann Ghia Cabrio

Previously Owned:
2011 VW EOS Hard Top Conv
2008 Saab 9-3 2.0T Conv
2003 Saab 9-3 SE Conv
2001 Saab 9-3 Conv
1998 BMW 3 Series Conv
1997 Saab 900 Conv
1997 Mazda Miata

68 Ghia Vert Survivor with 22,350 miles: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=768107&highlight=
71 Ghia Vert Restoration: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=726710&postorder=asc

[VWporscheGT3]

[NoDents]

I tend to agree that it's a electrical grounding issue.
_________________
No Dents

1963 Bug - Sold in 1980
1966 Karmann Ghia Convertible - Stolen in 1988
1971 Karmann Ghia Convertible, resto/mod COMPLETED 10/2020

[BulliBill]

Wow! I have never seen smoke come out of that area of the drivetrain, ever! Kinda makes me think it is electrical also? Does it smell "electrical"?

I can't wait to hear about what the original poster discovers when the engine is removed. It does look like there is a little too much bend in the bowden tube, and the clutch cable end adjustment looks to be all the way to the tight end (forwardmost end of adjustability).

While apart, de-grease and clean up everything and inspect for wear. I'd automatically replace the throw-out bearing, the clutch disc if worn and maybe even a new pressure plate. I'd automatically replace the clutch cable with a know correct length cable and perhaps save the used one if it isn't damaged or fraying and toss it under your rear seat for some long-in-the-future roadside cable breakdown... How do your used forward and rearward engine/transaxle rubber/metal mounts look? With the engine removed, now would be the time to do them easier too... Maybe a gear oil change while you're down there in that neighborhood, or at the very least pull the fill plug on the left side of the transaxle case and use a fingertip to inspect for proper gear oil level in transaxle.

If you do all of the above correctly and thoroughly and use quality parts, and you aren't too hard on your vehicle, you shouldn't have to do it again for a long time. Have fun, I love doing this shit!

Bill Bowman
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Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

[JoeM]

Finally resolved!
Thanks everyone for you suggestions, here is what it was:


Link

[sputnick60]

Your video popped up in my YouTube feed. I've seen it already.. Nice work. You're on the way to your first 1million subscribers.
Nicholas
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'66 Karmann Ghia Cabriolet...
'65 Porsche 356C Coupe...
2005 Mecedes Benz C180 Kompressor Estate
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[crocteau]