Official lazy person's stupid question thread

[DuncanS]

The slave moves the clutch lever about 9/16ths when the pedal is depressed.

Duncan

[DanHoug]

i haven't measured one but that seems about right eyeballing it. the movement is amplified by the beam of the control arm.

so. next test. grab the clutch cross shaft arm lever with your hand and move it in the direction the slave would push it. other than a little shake, you normally wouldn't be able to move that arm without hydraulic help. if you can move it by hand 1/2" or so, it's not pushing against the disc spring fingers. but since it DID return the slave piston to the rest position, it is likely fine. it's just something you want to check to make sure there's LOTS of spring tension there.

with the engine running at idle, do you hear any transmission noise difference with the clutch depressed or let out? when in neutral, you'll hear the gear cluster rattle about with the clutch let out and that noise goes away with it pushed in.
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-dan
60% of what you find on the internet is wrong, including this post.

'87 Westy & '89 Westy both 2.1 4spd

Past projects can be found at--
www.thefixitworkshop.com

[Zephyr_shreds]

what is this hose for. What does it do

[AndyBees]

The hose is connected to the Vacuum Pump there on the right.

It is collapsed because it is not the correct hose for vacuum.

It goes to the front of the vehicle to the Brake Booster which is extremely important..
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'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003.

[Zephyr_shreds]

I drove without it to get a new hose cuz the old one collapsed and my brakes were super hard to press. Some oil squirted out. The brakes work good with it collapsed, as long as my engine doesn’t explode because of it I think I’m fine for now. Anyone have part number for correct hose?

[4Gears4Tires]

[brickster]

Not sure, but I think it’s N0203901?

[?Waldo?]

You should NOT drive without a hose there. Without a hose you will lose any power assist on the brakes AND you will be sucking unfiltered air into the crankcase. You also run the risk of seizing the vac pump which would also stop the oil pump and could grenade the engine.

The collapsed hose is also unwise, but certainly better than no hose at all. At least then all you risk is the loss of your power assist on your brakes and being unable to stop.

[Wildthings]

[4Gears4Tires]

What is this plug? I am currently looking, but if anyone happens to know off the top of the their head, that would be handy.
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'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[DuncanS]

Somehow my post evaporated. Clutch lever is rock solid, No movement of any kind with hand or hammer. Can not depress the lever at all manually.

In the middle of the night, someone musta stole my pressure plate. Luckily A cubed member and will get it flat bedded to my mechanic about 5 miles away. In the mean time this may be a good time to rotate the slave 90º.

Duncan

[Vanagon Nut]

[Vanagon Nut]

[Steve M.]

[Wildthings]

[4Gears4Tires]

One brown wire does indeed go to the oil pressure switch. The other brown wire is just free hanging. Apparently I didn't know what to do with it at some point and stuffed it under the intake manifold.

I'm not sure why I didn't just follow the lead, stressed out I guess. The motor is giving me some real issues and it's a big 2 steps forward 3 steps back situation. I am worse off now than I was a few days ago. I keep finding issues and fixing them and somehow it gets worse!

I was chasing the highway hiccup that only started after I installed a new GW AFM harness and rebuilt AFM and then today it has developed this weird vibration that vibrates the whole van. Only happens under load, disappears when coasting in gear or neutral. Engine free revs just fine. Like a bad wheel bearing or something but tied to the motor. I just fixed the alternator harness because the blue wire (insulation cracked) and the fuel pump wire (insulation gone, half the strands gone) looked terrible. The PO had wrapped them in electrical tape and I hadn't ever removed it until a thread I read about misfires mentioned the blue wire. I was very hopeful that was the fix. No change, still vibrates under load.

And when I went to test drive it, I turned it on, let it idle a bit, ran in to get my wallet, came back out and saw the red light flashing. That wouldn't worry me too much since it was maybe 30 seconds, but earlier in the day I ran it for awhile standing at the back of the motor to verify timing. I don't think the light was on when I went to turn it off, but I certainly wasn't looking for it and probably just reached in and shut it off. I had messed with the coolant lines earlier to reroute some lines. So maybe I smoked a 2nd wbx. Real cool.
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'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[djkeev]

Never turn your back on a running Vanagon!
They are like a demon child, once you're out of sight all sorts of trouble happens!

A low coolant level light does not automatically = a destroyed engine.

Was it hot? Engine bubbling and popping after you shut it down?

You are probably fine.

Vibration under load?
To me this is often drive train.
Loose CV, worn CV, you have a Syncro so drive shaft comes into play.
Broken engine/trans mount.

Hiccup at speed?
Injectors need servicing?
Ignition component
Poor fuel delivery

Dave
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Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[DanHoug]

[space]

General Question
I have a vehicle with an in tank fuel pump thats a real pita to replace
Was thinking of relocating the pump.
I need approx 43 lbs. If a pump puts out 60
A regulator would be used post pump to drop it down to 43ish?
In essence I would end up with 2 regulators 1 on the return 1 on supply
Is this correct thinking?
T
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82 westy
w:
2.5 JDM Subie
Rear discs

[4Gears4Tires]

Dave, I am thinking drivetrain too. It happens in all gears and the motor revs freely so it's probably not the trans. Fingers crossed. I am going to do a compression check on it regardless. All the axles are a year old. I think I'm going to start on a diagnostic thread on it. Dang piece of crap! I ordered a top of the line timing light just to eliminate that variable. I wish the valves had a spec other than "touch and 1.5-2 turns." What is touch? When it stops wobbling back and forth? Because if I push down on it it's not touching anymore. Is it all the way finger mashed in and that's the touch point? But I do see that the timing light drops a flash every now and again. I can hold it steady at 2k rpm and every 10-15 seconds there is a drop in a flash or two. I'm assuming that's a mild misfire?