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ronbug73 Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2009 Posts: 378 Location: ISRAEL
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Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 5:36 am Post subject: Trailing arm bushing |
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Hi
when do i know its time to replace the trailing arm bushing?
thank you
Ron |
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KTPhil Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006 Posts: 34021 Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 7:38 am Post subject: |
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Fronts? Almost never if you keep them greased.
Rears? Probably now. They work hard and deteriorate, so if you hear squeaking, or the rear alignment is off, or the end of the spring cover is not centered on the cover, the rubber is perished. Make a day of it and replace them, set the rear ride height and toe-out, and be amazed how much smoother it all works! |
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ronbug73 Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2009 Posts: 378 Location: ISRAEL
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Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 8:52 am Post subject: thank you |
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yes the rear one on irs. |
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KTPhil Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006 Posts: 34021 Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 8:57 am Post subject: |
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I had a pair of squeaks and poor handling, and traced it to rotted rear torsion arm bushings and also diagonal arm bushings. Consistent alignment was not possible with all the slop. I replaced both (though all I could find for the diagonals was urethane--lube it well on installation!), set the height, and had the rear aligned. Quieter, better tracking, and I was no longer feeling small or large bumps as much. Definitely worth the effort!
You can take off the cover and see if the outer rubber is squashed or cracked. |
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ronbug73 Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2009 Posts: 378 Location: ISRAEL
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KTPhil Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006 Posts: 34021 Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 9:56 am Post subject: |
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That does not look like my diagonal arm bushings. They look like this (urethane shown, originals were rubber):
Yours might be for an IRS Bug, not late Type 3. |
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ronbug73 Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2009 Posts: 378 Location: ISRAEL
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gtixpress Samba Member
Joined: June 22, 2006 Posts: 283 Location: Mahomet, IL
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Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 10:31 am Post subject: Re: cip1 |
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Between my two Type 3's that I've owned, neither had rear bushings that looked like that (with the metal piece mounted on it). _________________ Joe P.
1969 VW Type 3 Squareback
2002 VW GTI 337 (Limited Edition)
2018 VW Atlas SE VR6 4Motion
2019 VW Beetle S Final Edition Convertible |
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KTPhil Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006 Posts: 34021 Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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Brent Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 1614 Location: San Tan Valley, AZ
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Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 2:45 am Post subject: |
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I used new rubber ones, same as what CIP is selling and they are the same as what was originally in there. You need to pound out the steel cups too. The rubber is bonded to the metal cup pretty good and they're a pain to get out of the trailing arm.
_________________ 69 Fastback Build
Berg5 Build |
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vlad01 Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2010 Posts: 3069 Location: Australia
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Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 3:27 am Post subject: |
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KTPhil wrote: |
That does not look like my diagonal arm bushings. They look like this (urethane shown, originals were rubber):
Yours might be for an IRS Bug, not late Type 3. |
i bought these so i can cross reference the dimensions for superior ones made by fulcrum her in oz. Cheap(quality wise) ones fall apart easy, fulcrum (aka superpro) have knurling inside them for grease retention and the material lasts absolutely ages with years of abuse.
currently they have no kit for the diagonals for VW but a vast catalog of standard bushes to choose from. So I bought an example.
one day I might post them up if I do manage to find the bushes required. |
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ronbug73 Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2009 Posts: 378 Location: ISRAEL
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Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 6:32 am Post subject: thank you |
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when its time to do it together with the SPRING PLATE bushing?
or when taking out the sub-frame?
do i have to remove the engine?
witch leads to another question. when to replace the sub-frame 3 bushing
that connects to the body?
thank you
Ron |
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KTPhil Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006 Posts: 34021 Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 8:46 am Post subject: |
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I would make a combo job of it... spring plate and diagonal arm bushings at the same time. Both can throw off your alignment, so this way you only align once, and you get your ride height correct as well. Read up on setting ride height so you are ready when the torsion bar comes out and you have to set it back correctly. I would measure your ride height now and if it is correct, mark the outer spline/hob with paint or a chisel, and be sure to NOT pull out the inner ends. In this case you don't have to even get out the bubble protractor.
No need to change the body bushings unless they are broken. It is not a friction surface like the other rubber bushings. Mine are original on my '71 and give no trouble. |
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22431 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 9:45 am Post subject: |
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KTPhil wrote: |
I would make a combo job of it... spring plate and diagonal arm bushings at the same time. Both can throw off your alignment, so this way you only align once, and you get your ride height correct as well. Read up on setting ride height so you are ready when the torsion bar comes out and you have to set it back correctly. I would measure your ride height now and if it is correct, mark the outer spline/hob with paint or a chisel, and be sure to NOT pull out the inner ends. In this case you don't have to even get out the bubble protractor.
No need to change the body bushings unless they are broken. It is not a friction surface like the other rubber bushings. Mine are original on my '71 and give no trouble. |
Keep in mind that you'll need a couple of extra M10 bolts (10x1.50) that are about 3.5 inches long, and some spacers for them (that you can add as needed), to help get the spring plate cover back on. I only mention it, as I've found I needed to use them just for raising or lowering a type 3, and that's with used bushings.
The hardest part will be getting the spring plate off the stop, and getting the diagonal bolt out. See the lowering thread for removing the spring plate, and the Bentley manual for the diagonal bolt. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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KTPhil Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006 Posts: 34021 Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 9:55 am Post subject: |
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Yeah, it's a day's work but it will set you up for like 50,000 miles or more.
Read up first. And be ready to reset the torsion bars a couple of times to get it right. I have the Pieseler tool but it's still some trial and error if you want to dial it in exactly. Worth the effort for the ride and quiet and better alignment.
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aaronsneary Samba Member
Joined: April 09, 2021 Posts: 5 Location: Southern Arizona
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Posted: Sat May 08, 2021 10:43 am Post subject: |
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Bobnotch wrote: |
Keep in mind that you'll need a couple of extra M10 bolts (10x1.50) that are about 3.5 inches long, and some spacers for them (that you can add as needed), to help get the spring plate cover back on. I only mention it, as I've found I needed to use them just for raising or lowering a type 3, and that's with used bushings. |
My mechanic pointed out that one of mine is missing. Besides the bushings and bolts, are there specific nuts required? I found the bolts and bushings on JBUGs. |
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