Diesel AAZ injectors and pump (+ broken crankshaft)?

[?Waldo?]

[westyventures]

[akyrie]

I am sorry to hear your troubles. I would be suspect of any carry over parts, especially since this is not a known problem.

Maybe it's time to get an engine that had an original American market? 1Z (AHU- late 98 jettas etc...)can be swapped in there with little modification. They can be run completely mechanical. Don't mess with the engine, buy one from a salvage yard if you can see it run. They are way cheaper than what you paid from either place you bought your previous blocks. These are known champs, should go 300k with decent fluid and belt changes.

I did this same thing, bought a car of craigslist for $700, and I took the long way of making it an etdi. Maybe shoulda, coulda done it all mechanical. I wanted to plug stuff into it, thats my personal crutch. Doesn't have to be yours.
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Although I got a funny message from the Porsche guys, it read, "what a mighty ship that you must sail"
....has anyone else received that?

82 AHU DK, 1950's Puch-black

[valvecovergasket]

[ALIKA T3]

Hello!

Was the second block a brand new AAZ, not rebuilt ? I saw last year he had one left, I almost bought it.

If both were used, maybe they were from accidented vehicles that took a frontal passenger hit and stressed the crank?

You are running a diesel bellhousing , right? No adapter ?

The harmonic breaking I cannot comment on, it makes sense when I read it but that's too much theory for me.

I've seen my share of improper set ups on diesels but never a snapped crank!
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
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[drewbie49]

So,

I got it built.

Seems to run really well.

I believe it was due to the incorrect injectors and improper pump settings. Seems the 1.6 injectors were the equipment in the engine when I purchased it several years back. When I took it in to do a small mod-new and upgraded turbo, new cam shaft and lifters and some other minor junk, I also had the injectors and pump sent out for the treatment.

To cut to the quick I had new 1.9 injectors installed and it seems to have remedied the issue. Someone saw the damaged crankshaft and said that -if I understood correctly-there was too much fuel being dumped into the system and this was the result-twice.

Any input would be appreciate in case I am not seeing something clearly.

[11BC2]

I’m trying to figure out how the pump and/or injectors could cause a crank to fail without giving any indication...poor engine performance, horrid noises, etc... before failure.
I have a 1984 Jetta, that left Germany with a 1.6l Turbodiesel engine.
Replaced that 1.6 with a used NA 1.9 AAZ from Quality German.
Pulled the head off, cleaned out the intake ports, applied new head gasket using ARP studs, and replaced the main and rod bearings, again using ARP studs/bolts.
I swapped all of the 1.6 diesel components...pump, lines, injectors...straight onto the AAZ. Made my own hybrid turbo using a compressor wheel and housing from a Volvo 240 turbo.
Put the car on the dyno, adjusted fuel to a light smoke on acceleration, and it makes 120whp/200wtq and gets mid 40mpg. Boost is ~11psi, iirc.

[?Waldo?]

Nope, no way. Fitting 1.6 injectors on a 1.9 would not break the crankshaft. Period. Maybe having the timing set way too advanced would stress the crankshaft, but the engine would sound like absolute crap. If one or more of the injectors were peeing enough fuel to cause an issue like hydrolock, then the engine would sound like it had a rod knock AND rather than breaking the crankshaft, the rod would get bent.

[drewbie49]

I go there only because those were the only two components common to both engine failures.

On another note;
The throttle seems to be a bit spongy and binds a little at times. Nothing alarming but I know it can be better.
Tried to find a routing diagram to see if there is a bracket or something missing but unable t do so and since it is the holiday weekend no one is open to talk to or look at it.
Any links to a good clear routing of the cable, particularly at the firewall would be a great help.

Thanks for the input and happy 2021.

[11BC2]

I’m trying to figure out how the pump and/or injectors could cause a crank to fail without giving any indication...poor engine performance, horrid noises, etc... before failure.
I have a 1984 Jetta, that left Germany with a 1.6l Turbodiesel engine.
Replaced that 1.6 with a used NA 1.9 AAZ from Quality German.
Pulled the head off, cleaned out the intake ports, applied new head gasket using ARP studs, and replaced the main and rod bearings, again using ARP studs/bolts.
I swapped all of the 1.6 diesel components...pump, lines, injectors...straight onto the AAZ. Made my own hybrid turbo using a compressor wheel and housing from a Volvo 240 turbo.
Put the car on the dyno, adjusted fuel to a light smoke on acceleration, and it makes 120whp/200wtq and gets mid 40mpg. Boost is ~11psi, iirc.

[?Waldo?]

[valvecovergasket]

not to mention, the rods would be toast long before the crank would.
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gone, but not forgotten: '83 tdi westy - swap thread

[drewbie49]

And it gets better.

Got the engine balanced and what not. New rods, pistons and crankshaft. New harmonic balancer and injectors. That seem to do the trick. Ran it on the flats for a bit and then crept over the pass a couple of times and things were running well. On my last trip over the pass and not far from home, the main bearings blew a hole in block you could drive thru.

Longer story short, I found a gentleman on the recomendation of a well respected shop in Kent Wa to put together an AHU.

During his assessment of the blown engine, he found that the dip stick was to long and said that there was never enough oil in the engine. This seems wierd as no one who changed the oil ever indicated any concern about the amount of oil.

So three engines and a ton of heartache later...

Any thoughts on this?

I am at a complete loss and am still hopeful we can resolve this with a different engine although I will always suspect the devil made his/her home in my van and it is destined to make my life a living hell as long as I insist on owning a Vanagon.

most likely will go up for sale regardless of how well it performs with the new engine.

Yes, I am a sucker.

[Gnarlodious]

I just don’t know how that could happen. Damned sloppy mechanics is what it is. Terrible.

When I put in my AAZ I was very concerned about the oil level since there was no good solution to a dipstick. My solution was twofold to prevent low oil level and/or pressure. First, an Auber 1813 digital gauge on the dash with programmable low pressure alarm. Second, I custom made a dipstick coming out the license plate cover by using the spring steel circumference ring scavenged from a windshield sunshade. Since I had no clue where low level was, I used the Auber readout to determine the level at which the pump sucked air. With the AAZ when I turn a corner the oil sloshes to one side and that is when I can see the pressure drop. That level is the absolute lowest the engine should ever see. I set the dipstick mark slightly higher than that level. No trouble ever.

My condolences but “protect your investment” is the byword here. Spend a little money and do the little bit of work to spare yourself the heartache.
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Vanagon ’83 diesel AAZ w/Giles injection, 5spd 4.57R&P+TBD and a '78 diesel Rabbit

[drewbie49]

Thank you for your reply and information. Should I decide to keep this project, I will certainly go with something like the instrument you are using.

Unfortunately, I am having trouble finding mechanics that are competent and can communicate and are understanding of my situation and will not get wound up if I get concerned when the months a passing by with no van.. Seems that I have had a couple high dollar techs cause me some high dollar grief. Not sure I want to remain in this toxic realm much longer. And yes it could be me.

Do not mean to unload just had some really high expectations that have crashed and burned for over two years now.

Coming here does give me some hope that I will one day soon either have a reliable Westy, or have it running long enough so I can sell it and feel good that no one is getting screwed.

We will see.

Thanks for the input and I will post when I get it complete. Hopefully sooner than later.

Cheers

[?Waldo?]

I don't see how low oil level could break the first two crankshafts. It would toss a rod first.

Low oil level could certainly cause a tossed rod, but your oil light should have given you some warning. Is your oil light working? Does it light up each time you turn the key to ON before you turn to start? Did it light up when driving?

[valvecovergasket]

[skills@eurocarsplus]

[MarkWard]

[Zeitgeist 13]

I don't think I've ever heard of a broken crank on an inline VW, ever. Is this engine assembly still in the van? I'm about 30 miles south of you, and would be willing to swing by and take a look.
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?