Intermittent Wiper installation

[Qldelsie]

I found these relays for an intermittent wiper, and was wondering whether they are just a "plug and play" improvement ? Mine is a 1970 Fastback currently with the two speed round wiper switch on the dash, including a self park function when you switch it off.
The wiper switch in the car has 6 pins - (31,31b, 53a, 53, 53b, 30). The relay in the photo has 5 pins.
Can someone with better electrical sense than me explain if this can be wired up on my car, and if so how ? Would appreciate any help. I feel that it would be a worthwhile upgrade because reaching across to the wiper switch on the passenger side of the dash every 10 seconds is a pain in the neck ! Literally !
G

[sjbartnik]

If it was that easy, we’d all have intermittent wipers, wouldn’t we?
_________________
1965 Volkswagen 1500 Variant S
2000 Kawasaki W650

[mdege]

It can be done. I am not sure about this relay, because it depends on how the return circuitry is wired.

I installed an intermittent wiper on my '71 square using a '70 wiper assembly and a 1980 BMW relay. This was back in about 1987. I still have the notes I took back then and I can share them later on.

I would have to do some research to tell you if the relay you posted would work.
_________________
- Michael

1965 21F: Restoration of a former '65 firetruck
1963 Typ3 Notchback project
1988 Multivan Magnum 112i
1984 Standard: My son wanted a bug for his first car

[sjbartnik]

It definitely could be done, but it’s not gonna be a plug & play.

Especially considering that VWs of that era did not use relays at all for the wipers.

When VW did start to supply intermittent wipers in the ‘79 - ‘80 era, they did go to a timer relay like this to make the intermittent function work. They also added a position to the switch (by that time the wiper switch was on the steering column) to make it a 3-position switch instead of just two.

First position was intermittent, with the relay provided a non-adjustable interval (like 6 seconds I think). Then 2nd position was low, 3rd position high.

To use this with the stock ‘70 2-speed switch you’d have to sacrifice one of your wiper speed settings, either low or high.

Unless you can perhaps find some other Euro car of the era that had a similar type switch with 3 positions.

It certainly could be done pretty easily with some aftermarket switch but doing it while maintaining stock appearance would be the ultimate goal.
_________________
1965 Volkswagen 1500 Variant S
2000 Kawasaki W650

[Qldelsie]

[mdege]

I made my own three position switch using a switch I bought at a surplus store and probably the remains of a stock switch. I don't really remember the details. I do remember, that I had a stock looking switch.

But I did also convert the washer to an electric pump which was also controlled by the same relay. I needed a separate push button for that.

Here is the wiper circuit I used back then:

_________________
- Michael

1965 21F: Restoration of a former '65 firetruck
1963 Typ3 Notchback project
1988 Multivan Magnum 112i
1984 Standard: My son wanted a bug for his first car

[Qldelsie]

Excellent, thanks for that. I have already converted my washer to an electric pump as it is just SO much more efficient. Still use the original bottle and the motor is hidden underneath the bottle, so nothing obvious And the "go" button is a really small black one just underneath the wiper switch, so very inconspicuous. It all works really well !
Yes, I want to keep at least the outer section of the original switch so that it looks "standard".
Thanks again for your input.
G

[Max Welton]

[Bobnotch]

[Peters Van]

stolen from club vee dub australia website

How to modify those windscreen washers so they actually work! Part 1
By Leigh Harris
May 2005

It's the usual yearly pink slip joke when the mechanic checks that everything on the car works. Then as usual we come to the windscreen washers and he has a chuckle about how he hasn't seen a Volkswagen with working windscreen washers since the 1970s, when the car was new.

What I’m going to outline is a step-by-step upgrade to install a small micro-switch in place of the usual pressure valve at the back of the windscreen washer switch in a 1969 Kombi, or any other Volkswagen where the washer switch looks similar. I performed this modification on our 1969 Microbus, and was so impressed with the results I decided to document the process. The dash switch will work as usual but the washers will work off a 12-volt motor instead of relying on the washer bottle being pressurised with air. The dashboard will look factory without an ugly switch installed elsewhere. Note - for those vehicles with the washer switch on the stalk of the steering column, I will write an article in next month’s magazine on how this can be modified just as easily to include a micro switch.

Firstly you'll need to buy a 12-volt aftermarket windscreen washer motor from an automotive shop such as Autopro or Super Cheap, etc. I paid $16.95 from the latter shop. Then you'll need to buy a press button switch, and some wire capable of handling just a few amps, from Jaycar or Dick Smith. The switch I bought was from Jaycar (cat no: SP-0710), which cost a grand total of $1.20. This switch is perfect for our use, as I'll explain soon.

The washer pump I bought has the electric motor above the impellor. This is an important point to remember for installation, as described later in the article.

Firstly begin by disconnecting your VW’s earth lead from the battery for safety. You'll need to remove the windscreen wiper switch from the dashboard and label the wires so you'll know where the wires need to be reconnected later. To remove the wiper switch unscrew the plastic knob of the switch and then gently rotate the back of the switch to loosen it from the dash. Hopefully then the switch will only be finger tight and will be able to be unscrewed from the front alloy bezel. If not, you can make a special tool with two long prongs to unscrew the bezel – an old kitchen fork with the two centre prongs removed, and the outer ones bent to fit, will work.

Once this has been done remove the two rubber lines that go through the back of the switch that carry the water from the washer bottle to your windscreen washer nozzles located under the front windscreen.

Looking at the back of the removed switch, note all terminals are numbered as per Volkswagen’s standard design. Also note the ‘switch insert’ protruding from the back of the switch. This is the piece that needs to be carefully trimmed to size.

You will need to carefully drill out the rivets on back of the wiper switch to release the plastic section from the rear of the switch, and remove the plunger arrangement that is no longer needed.

The reason I suggested you buy the same micro switch as I mentioned above, is because it is the correct size to screw tightly into the back of the windscreen switch without having to go to the trouble of drilling or tapping the hole for installation.

Screw the micro switch you bought from Jaycar into the back of the plastic of the windscreen wiper switch. From the ‘inside’ of the plastic backing, you can see the red button that the ‘switch insert’ will press against. You will need to resecure the plastic backing piece to the switch again using two 3 x 35 mm nuts and bolts.



Screw the original front knob back in place and insert the front cover with the insert that will press against the micro switch at the back. You may find this plastic insert will need to be trimmed to size to make it sit in place and also be able to reach the micro switch. If the switch insert is a fraction too long, it will protrude too far from the front of the wiper knob. Remove the insert and trim the end closest to the micro switch carefully with side cutters to achieve the correct length.

With this done, place the switch to one side and focus on the rest of the job. You will need to install that windscreen washer motor at position lower than the washer bottle because these pumps aren't self-priming (which means these motors are unable to suck fluid, they can only push fluid once it has actually drained into the pump using gravity). The washer motor must be lower than the bottom of the reservoir so that water is in it at all times.

Before installing the washer motor look carefully at the pump for an arrow that indicates which direction of the pump is the ‘in’ and ‘out’ directions. These pumps only pump fluid in one direction, so you will need to ascertain which direction is correct before you mount the pump.

Another point to remember when mounting is that the pump MUST be mounted horizontally with the in and out fittings on the pump pointing horizontally. You must also mount it so that the electric part of the pump is higher than the impellor of the pump. If you fail to do this water may leak from the pump into the motor and short the motor’s electric circuit.

Connect one wire from the 12-volt windscreen washer motor you have installed, to an earth point on the body/chassis of the car. Next connect a wire from the other terminal of the windscreen washer motor, to one side of the micro switch you have adapted to the back of the original switch. This will require soldering. Then connect another wire from the other terminal of the micro switch back to the 12-volt accessories of the fuse box. That's it for the wiring.

Earlier you disconnected the flexible rubber fluid hose from the wiper switch at two points. You will need to trace which hose goes to the windscreen washer outlets near the windscreen. This hose is to be routed back to the 12-volt washer pump you have installed. Note this hose goes to the ‘outward’ side of the washer pump, or the side in which the arrow points. Finally, you will need to connect the inward side of the pump to the washer bottle. You will also need to vent the washer bottle so that a vacuum doesn't form inside the bottle when the motor is running. To do this simply unscrew the black plastic fitting on top of the washer bottle and remove the air pressure fitting that usually resides here. This is enough to vent the bottle sufficiently to atmosphere to prevent an air lock forming.

Reconnect the wires to the back of the windscreen wiper switch that you modified earlier and mount this back onto the dashboard. Fill the washer bottle with water (and add a cap-full of Windex or similar) if it has been drained, and reconnect the battery earth strap. With the ignition key in the accessories position and by pressing the factory knob in on dashboard you should hear the 12-volt motor run and prime with water for the first time. A second or so later you should have a stream of water on the windscreen, probably for the first time in years. And best of all you can stick it to the mechanic next time he carries out that pink slip and jokes about Volkswagen windscreen washers!

Parts required:
12 Volt Windscreen washer motor - $16.95
Push button switch - $2.20
2 metres of 5-amp wire - $4.00
Install time - 1 hour.

Next month I'll detail the same install into a Kombi or Beetle that has the washer switch mounted on the stalk of the steering column of the car, such as a Superbug, Type 3, and Kombi (1971 onwards)

Top



How to modify those windscreen washers so they actually work! Part 2
By Leigh Harris
September 2005

A few issues ago I wrote a technical article on how to install a micro switch in the back of a standard switch on an early Kombi so that the windscreen washers work and look like a factory setup with no ugly switches.

In this issue I'll do the same but this time to a ‘70s VW Beetle where the windscreen washers are triggered by pulling back on one of the stalks on the steering column.

What I've outlined below is a step-by-step upgrade to install a small micro-switch in place of the usual pressure valve located within the steering column assembly of a 1970s VW Beetle or any other such Volkswagen such as the 1972-1978 Kombi, Type 3 etc. I have previously performed this modification on Belinda's 1303 Beetle and Dave Birchall's Type 3 wagon.

Pulling back on the steering column stalk to trigger the windscreen washers usually depresses a pressure relief valve. Instead we will replace this valve with a small micro switch. The steering column will look factory but the washers will work off a 12 volt motor instead of relying on the washer bottle being pressurised with air and the dashboard will look factory without an ugly switch installed elsewhere.

Firstly you'll need to buy a 12-volt aftermarket windscreen washer motor from an automotive shop such as Autopro or Super Cheap etc. I paid $16.95 from the latter shop. Then you'll need to buy a press button switch and some wire capable of handling just a few amps from Jaycar or Dick Smith. The switch I bought was from Jaycar (cat no: SP-0714), which cost $6.50. This switch is perfect for our use, as I'll explain soon. You will also require a small piece of aluminium approximately 15mm x 25mm. The piece I used was 1.75mm thick.

Firstly begin by disconnecting your vehicle’s earth lead from the battery for safety. Next ensure your front wheels are pointing directly ahead. When you finish the job you'll need to reinstall the steering wheel in the correct position, and obviously you'll want the steering wheel orientated correctly. Next you'll need to remove the steering wheel to gain access to the switch assembly. This is a very easy task. Firstly remove the plastic horn cover from the middle of your steering wheel.

To remove the steering wheel you'll need a socket to loosen the nut holding the steering wheel onto the spline of the steering column. Just loosen the nut BUT do not unscrew the nut all the way off the column. Next to remove the steering wheel from the column you will need to sit in the drivers seat and pull the steering wheel up off the column spline by pulling on the wheel gently. By leaving the nut threaded on the column a few turns when the steering wheel loosens, you won't end up hitting yourself in the nose with the wheel or landing in the back seat holding the steering wheel. You'll see what I mean when it loosens! When the steering wheel has loosened off the spline, undo that nut completely and slide the wheel of the column and put it in a safe place.

When the steering wheel is removed you'll be confronted with the column. Note the four screws that hold the assembly into the column.

The centre section surrounding the steering column is the steering column indicator assembly that lifts out of the column itself. To do this reach under the column and you'll see two plugs that connect to the indicator assembly. To remove these plugs pull them down towards the pedals to remove from the contacts. There is no need to label any terminals or plugs as they only fit on one way. Next you will have two rubber hoses that run up inside the column that carry water to the pressure switch from the washer bottle. Try pulling these hoses off the switch, but only after you have depressurised the washer bottle - if your bottle actually held pressure that is! If these hoses won't pull off the switch cut them as close to the steering column as possible. We will be using this hose later on so an extra length will make you job easier. Once these two plugs and two hoses are disengaged you can remove the indicator assembly by unscrewing these four screws. Once loosened hold each indicator stalk and lift from the column by pulling the assembly towards you.

Begin by unscrewing the two Philips head screws that hold this pressure switch to the assembly. Once this is removed you will need to snip and remove this small piece of plastic that once pressed on the pressure switches diaphragm. Note the small piece of plastic that looks like a small thumbtack that needs to be removed. To do this I suggest a small pair of pliers or side cutters.

Begin by cutting a piece of aluminium that is 2mm thick and cut in a size of 25mm x 12 mm. You will need to mark two holes 22.5mm apart then, directly between these two holes mark a third hole. But note these holes may vary from model to model. To check your distances measure how far apart the mounting holes were for the original pressure switch you just removed. The two outside holes need to be drilled to 3.5mm. The middle hole needs to be drilled to 6mm or the size of you switches outside threaded diameter. Be sure to mark these holes carefully and centre the job. If they are marked incorrectly you will need to modify later to make the assembly fit. One corner will need to be filed off to allow the switch assembly to fit inside the column assembly.

Next find the micro switch you bought and remove the plastic cover button and discard. Insert the micro switch into the middle hole of the aluminium and screw the switch up. You'll need to drill this hole out here to the size of the threaded part of the micro switch or thereabouts. To do this, use a drill on very low speed so as to not damage the small sliding plastic piece that will push on the micro switch when mounted.

Once drilled try fitting your aluminium piece with switch to the indicator assembly in place of the pressure switch that was once there.



If installed correctly the holes should line up and the micro switch should be depressed. When the windscreen washer stalk is pulled you should be able to see or hear the micro switch being pushed in. What you may need to do is round off one corner of the aluminium plate you have made, as you will notice the plate protrudes out past the curved lines of the assembly that slides into the steering column. To do this, remove the switch and plate and file the corner off with a square file. Then re-fit to the indicator assembly for the final time.

Next solder two wires to the back of the switch. The wire of one-metre length should be soldered to the middle terminal, which will go directly to 12 volts at the fuse box. The other wire will go to either outside terminal and will need to be 2 metres long or long enough to reach the front washer bottle.

This can be installed back into the steering column with the wires poked first down the steering column where the rubber hoses once resided. Gently push the assembly home inside the column ensuring no part of your aluminium plate is fouling on the column assembly or plastic steering column covers. Tighten the four screws up, and reinstall the steering wheel, nut and steering column horn button.

The windscreen washer motor must be installed at a position lower than the washer bottle because these pumps aren't self-priming. These motors are unable to suck fluid; they can only pump fluid once it has actually drained to the pump using gravity. Look carefully at the pump for an arrow that indicates which are the ‘in’ and ‘out’ directions. These pumps only pump fluid in one direction.

Another point to remember when mounting is that the pump must be mounted horizontally, with the inlet and outlet fittings pointing horizontally. The electric part of the pump must also be higher than the impellor of the pump. If you fail to do this, water may leak from the pump into the motor and short the motor’s electric circuit.

Connect one wire from the washer motor to a suitable earth point on the body or chassis of the car. Next connect the longer wire from the micro switch to the other terminal of the wiper motor. Then connect the spare wire that runs from the micro switch to the car’s fuse box. It’s preferable to use the fuse for the ‘accessories’ terminal of the fuse box. Consult your VW’s workshop manual.

Earlier you disconnected two flexible rubber fluid hoses from the existing pressure switch on the indictor assembly. You will need to join these two hoses together under the dashboard, or if you are keen you can trace which hose goes back to the windscreen washers. This hose can be routed back to the 12-volt washer pump you have installed. Note this hose goes to the ‘outward’ side of the washer pump, or the side in which the arrow points. Finally you will need to connect the inward side of the pump to the washer bottle. You will also need to vent the washer bottle so that a vacuum doesn't form inside the bottle when the motor is running. To do this simply unscrew the black plastic fitting on top of the washer bottle and remove the air pressure fitting that usually resides here. This is enough to vent the bottle sufficiently to atmosphere to prevent an air lock forming.

Fill the washer bottle with water if it has been drained, and reconnect the battery earth strap.

With the ignition key in the accessories position, and by pulling back on the indicator assembly to trigger the micro switch you should hear the 12 volt washer motor run and prime with water for the first time, and have a stream of water on the windscreen probably for the first time in years.

Parts required:
12 Volt Windscreen washer motor - $16.95
Push-button switch (Jaycar Cat. No. SP-0714) - $6.50
2 metres of 5-amp wire - $4.00
Small piece of aluminium, 2mm thick (30mm* 12mm) - priceless
Install time - 1.5 hours
_________________
1965 Type 3 Panel Van
1963 EH Holden Station Wagon

[Peters Van]

pics didnt come across with the text so here they are.....

old style pull switch mod

and later style stalk switch mod

i have done the old style mod on several cars and it works well.
_________________
1965 Type 3 Panel Van
1963 EH Holden Station Wagon

[Max Welton]

And...

https://www.jaycar.com.au/red-miniature-pushbutton-spst-momentary-action-125v-1a-rating/p/SP0710

Outstanding. Thanks for posting this.

Max
_________________
1967 Type-3 Fastback
Under the Knife https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=151582
Home Stretch https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=767836

[Syncronaut]

I bought this unit (see link below) from Revolution Electronics for my '68 Squareback a few years ago. Works perfectly, and I did not have to do any modifications to the original wiring harness, just plug and play

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324259708346?hash=item4b7f627dba:g:Yv0AAOxyiRlSbYpe
_________________
Gorm

[Qldelsie]

[ataraxia]

[Syncronaut]

[Qldelsie]

Thanks to Syncronaut in Norway for putting me on to them, I have just fitted the Revolution Electronics (out of Cypress California) Intermittent Wiper Module, and, sjbartnik, it really is "Plug and Play" !! 30 minutes work to install, and it works perfectly, still using the original wiper switch.
8 sec, 5 sec, and 3 sec delay wipes, plus the original continuous slow and continuous fast function that it had before.
Bloody brilliant !!!! Prompt delivery, even to Australia, well made, all wiring clips are pre-fitted, comes with precut shrink sleeves to isolate the wiring joins, and zip ties to secure the module, and works perfectly first time. Only slight down side was that it costs US$72.99 + freight to Oz, but when you get something that works as advertised, and makes a valuable improvement to your car, price is not so important !
Big thumbs up for Revolution Electronics.
Would post a pic but all you would see are wiper blades - I am not taking it all back out again just to take a pic of the module !!
G