New Member With a Question (Electrical)

[Hammerhead69]

Hello all, I couldn’t find an (introduction forum) so I’ll just make my first post a question.

I recently bought a ‘71 regular beetle that’s in decent shape but needs a few bugs worked out. I’ve ordered several new parts for it but the electrical system is the main focus right now. My dad & I were trying to get the headlights working today but we’ve run into a wall so to speak. With the ignition switch in the *off* position & the headlight switch pulled into the *on* position I’m getting power to the light in the radio as well power to the fuse (using a test light). However, we’re not getting power to the headlights until I turn the ignition switch to the *on* position. Using the test light I get power to the headlight plugs & even the actual prongs on the headlight (between the plug & the light) but neither headlight will light up. This makes no sense to me since there’s power making it to the headlights. Does anybody have any ideas?

[Cusser]

[Hammerhead69]

[Cusser]

[Hammerhead69]

[Dark Earth]

[Hammerhead69]

[Hammerhead69]

Ok, I got the headlight issue handled so far (grounding issue) so now I’m trying to figure out the starter issue. I plugged the wire that Dark Earth identified as the starter solenoid wire (turns out it wasn’t hooked to a relay) to the solenoid after disconnecting the jumper wire the P.O. had rigged. I get nothing when turning the key. I read that the red & black wire coming from the ignition switch is the wire that ultimately ends up at the solenoid. Using the test light when should I see power on this wire at the ignition switch? All the time or just when the key is turned to start position?

[VW_Jimbo]

Just when turned to the start position.

There is a connector between the ignition switch lead and the wire running to the starter motor right by the speedometer cable near the speedometer. It may be disconnected. All starter wires (originally) were red with a black tracer. This circuit is the 50 circuit. You will see the number 50 embossed into original components.
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[ashman40]

Test the voltage at both the red (#30) wire and the red/black (#50) wire at the ignition switch plug at the bottom of the steering column. The red wire is constant 12v from the battery. Ideally, this should be the same voltage as the battery posts (12.6v). Turn the key to START and test the voltage at the red/black wire. The voltage on this wire should be exactly the same as the red wire. Any voltage difference is caused by the switch internal contacts. If you see a significant voltage loss on the red/black wire (less than 11.0v on the wire) it means the ignition switch contacts are burnt. This happens over time with high amps flowing to energize the starter solenoid.

The hard start relay mentioned above reduces the current flowing thru the ignition switch and moves the current load to the relay under the rear seat. This will extend the life of the ignition switch contacts. It also reduces the voltage that needs to flow thru the ignition switch. As long as the ignition switch can consistently produce 6.0v+ when the key is turned to START it can energize a Bosch-style hard start relay under the rear seat. The relay passes direct battery voltage to the starter solenoid #50 terminal. The starter solenoid stops working reliably once the input voltage drops below 11.0v so 12.6v from the battery post makes for a reliable solenoid power source.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[Hammerhead69]

[ashman40]

Just realized you have a '71. That is the same year ignition switch as my old Beetle. Your switch bottom should look like this... wires soldered to the bottom of the switch, no removeable plug for the '71-earlier ignition switches.

Your test lamp should turn ON when you touch the red wire (constant 12v) terminal at the center of the switch. When you turn the switch all the way to START the terminal for the red/black wire should show power as well. If the red wire has power but the red/black does not when the key is in the START position the switch is bad.

You really want to test the voltage level at the red/black wire. If the voltage is low it may still light the 12v test lamp but will be insufficient voltage to power the starter solenoid.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[Hammerhead69]

Thanks Ashman. It’s a nasty day here today so I’m taking the day off from the project but I’ll report back my findings probably tomorrow afternoon. Thanks again.

[Hammerhead69]

[ashman40]

Here are some suggestions which you can take or leave:

1) Remove the old switch and disassemble it (be careful not to loose the springs and ball bearings). If it is an OE German made switch, consider cleaning the internal contacts, greasing with dielectric grease and reassembling it. The Germany switches had better internal contacts that will last years.

2) Regardless of whether you use the OE switch or a new aftermarket switch... consider adding a Bosch-type Hard Start Relay under the rear seat. The relay reduces the current that needs to flow thru the ignition switch contacts, prolonging the life of the switch. Without a HSR the aftermarket switch pictured above only lasted a couple years before it stopped working because the internal contacts had burnt.

3) While it may be tempting to cut and splice the ignition switch wires there under the dash at the steering column... don't do it. ID where the old ignition switch wires were connected and take the time to run your new switch wires thru the dash grommet into the trunk space and connect them correctly in place of the old wires. It is much cleaner looking and makes for a better electrical connection.

_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[Hammerhead69]

[Hammerhead69]

Put in a new switch today & now the motor cranks with the key. The bad news is that now the turn signals don’t work. Any ideas?

[VW_Jimbo]

Check the fuses!
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[Hammerhead69]

[Hammerhead69]

Do I even have the correct ring? Mine is pictured below & every other one I’ve seen on Google searches looks different for the ‘71.