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Hoffman Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2012 Posts: 18 Location: Fairfield, CA
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Posted: Sun Dec 08, 2019 1:16 pm Post subject: Re: 1969 squareback "Moose" |
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Quick, but wordy update.
Thanks for the link, Mike. That, and a new quarter pan section should get me squared away. Thanks for the tip on the rails Bobnotch. No welding ability yet, so i'll ask the shop I'm looking at for the pan/bulkhead repair it they could tackle that too.
Took Moose on a short shake-down run yesterday. Breaks are super soft. Had to pump at least twice to get any action. Didn't see any leaking from the wheel cylinders. Hand break is good. Going to try bleeding again, and maybe getting one of those vacuum bleeders. Master cylinder might need rebuilt or replaced. Got a good look at it and the outside is fairly rusty so that puts doubt on the seals.
All my lights work, high and low beams, brake lights, and emergency flashers. Most my dash lights work. Antenna is snapped off, but the aftermarket cd player comes on
The biggest issue i have now is that it's absolutely powerless. Really slow to accelerate and in third with the pedal down I barely made it to thirty. I have it static timed and valves adjusted. Haven't had time to dig into the forums or my manuals, but I know I've read on a few about poor power issues. My speedo bounced a bit and was about 10 mph off according to the speed detector sign near my house (not that i trust that thing). My aftermarket Tach bounced around like crazy and was pretty unreliable. Anyone have any experience with that? I'll try to get a video up if that would help. Idle was steady, no misses or backfires. Acceleration didn't sound like it was missing on anything. My accelerator cable looks longer, maybe stretched, than it should be. It's clamped on the cable a couple inches from the metal ferrule at the end.
The next issue is the shifter being real sloppy and no reverse, as far as I can tell. It's been about a decade, but I'm pretty sure reverse is left and aft, correct? Could my acceleration issues be a bad clutch issue? Didn't really hear any rubbing or grinding. Sorry if I'm sounding a little dumb, still shaking out the cobwebs of not doing anything VW or manual trans for a long time. _________________ 1969 orange squareback Velma
1969 grey squareback Moose |
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22328 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2019 11:36 am Post subject: Re: 1969 squareback "Moose" |
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Hoffman wrote: |
Took Moose on a short shake-down run yesterday. Breaks are super soft. Had to pump at least twice to get any action. Didn't see any leaking from the wheel cylinders. Hand break is good. Going to try bleeding again, and maybe getting one of those vacuum bleeders. Master cylinder might need rebuilt or replaced. Got a good look at it and the outside is fairly rusty so that puts doubt on the seals.
The biggest issue i have now is that it's absolutely powerless. Really slow to accelerate and in third with the pedal down I barely made it to thirty. I have it static timed and valves adjusted. Haven't had time to dig into the forums or my manuals, but I know I've read on a few about poor power issues. My speedo bounced a bit and was about 10 mph off according to the speed detector sign near my house (not that i trust that thing). My aftermarket Tach bounced around like crazy and was pretty unreliable. Anyone have any experience with that? I'll try to get a video up if that would help. Idle was steady, no misses or backfires. Acceleration didn't sound like it was missing on anything. My accelerator cable looks longer, maybe stretched, than it should be. It's clamped on the cable a couple inches from the metal ferrule at the end.
The next issue is the shifter being real sloppy and no reverse, as far as I can tell. It's been about a decade, but I'm pretty sure reverse is left and aft, correct? Could my acceleration issues be a bad clutch issue? Didn't really hear any rubbing or grinding. Sorry if I'm sounding a little dumb, still shaking out the cobwebs of not doing anything VW or manual trans for a long time. |
As for the soft brakes, it might be that you need to adjust the rears tight, then bleed the fronts again first, then bleed the rears, followed by slacking the rears so the tires will turn. Disc brake cars should have the fronts done first,which seams opposite, but it's called out in Bentley that way.
Sounds like you might need to put a little timing into it.
Sounds like it needs a shifter bushing replaced. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Hoffman Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2012 Posts: 18 Location: Fairfield, CA
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Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 12:41 am Post subject: Re: 1969 squareback "Moose" |
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Do to recent world events, I had to step away from Moose for a bit but I've got some free time recently and jumped back in. First was a pretty big scare. I took Moose out for a drive, and half a block from the house I lost all power. Double checked everything and managed to limp back on maybe one cylinder. Pulled all my plugs and found all of them fouled. Easy fix.
I also decided that I wasn't going to pay someone to fix my car, why should I pay someone to weld it? I read through these forums about patches and panels, googled a bunch, and youtube'd a few evenings of videos and pulled the trigger to do my own welding. Here's my modest garage setup.
It's what I can afford, and what my house wiring can handle. I had some spare metal shelves that are about the same thickness as my floorplans. I cut some rough squares and practiced welding up little boxes, also welded up a bigger box to sit in my way back as an organizer
By no means professional, but I can stand on it without it breaking.
Decided to start by tackling some little jobs. Every VW needs two things, a mystery oil drip, and a horn. My horn did not work so I pulled it and jumped it straight to the battery, no sound. Got my new one in and still no sound. Trolled the forums and checked the wire down the column and bingo, busted. Ran a new one and now Moose has a call again. Here it is all installed.
Tackled the busted antenna as well. Really easy to replace with a new collapsible one. The fender hole was a bit wallowed out so I put a spot of silicone adhesive to help with a little wiggle. Ran the wire to my radio And now I get all the top local fm channels
After a little hesitation I pulled the driver's seat and decided to jump into the seat rail repair. I wire brushed everything and lined it up. The outer rail was trickier, but needed less welding so I stared with that.
The inner rail has been broken and repaired at least twice so not all the welds are mine
It was late so I didn't clean up the welds but I did add a very crucial piece.
_________________ 1969 orange squareback Velma
1969 grey squareback Moose |
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22328 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Hoffman Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2012 Posts: 18 Location: Fairfield, CA
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Posted: Wed May 06, 2020 2:16 am Post subject: Re: 1969 squareback "Moose" |
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I've had a good amount of work around the house to finish but I've managed to make progress on Moose. First I found some more cracks on the seat rails that I welded up (no pics)
Here is the floor pan after some cleaning. Pretty much all eaten away under the seat support. Also found a lot of Bondo and what looks like some mesh support fiber stuff layered around the battery tray.
Cut out all the rot and started figuring where to make my cuts
Found more weak spots and Bondo so had to cut out more. I cut out the seat support to get more room, and to repair the bottom two inches or so that rotted off
After about two hours or so of cutting and rough fitting I called it a night. I'm close to the fine tuning stage. I have a couple bigger cuts to make tomorrow to get the back end of the pan to where it needs to be but I'm getting there.
_________________ 1969 orange squareback Velma
1969 grey squareback Moose |
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22328 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Wed May 06, 2020 12:17 pm Post subject: Re: 1969 squareback "Moose" |
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Looks like great progress so far. You're going to want a little more rust off before you start welding though. I'd also put a crap load of tack welds on it, before I'd start welding it in (less chance of it moving on you). Then try to keep your welds down to about 2 inches long, and skip around the panel, adjusting the sheet metal with a hammer to tighten up some spots as you'll find it trying to open as you go. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Hoffman Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2012 Posts: 18 Location: Fairfield, CA
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Posted: Tue May 11, 2021 3:18 pm Post subject: Re: 1969 squareback "Moose" |
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I didn't forget about this post. Covid and work really cut into all my time for a few months and my wife developed a very serious medical condition that put working on the car out of the picture for about 6 months
I made good progress, but lost all the photos. Long story short, I did something wrong and on the first trip out, the engine seized up after about a mile. No ETA for an autopsy
Long version:
I got the pan welded in, not perfect, but strong and serviceable. I struggled for a long time with the EFI. I went back and forth reading the sticky and other threads. I finally got it running, but still a little rough.
I found a few places that the seals were pretty gone and oil was leaking out so I decided to rebuild the engine. I got new heads, pistons, jugs, hardware, and seals. I found the old heads had cracks between the valve ports, so good thing I bought the new ones. I followed the Bentley and an acvw rebuild book. I didn't go in depth on the tear-down/rebuild because I needed a working car in a short amount of time.
I eventually got it all back together and could not get it started. I ran through every thing again and the EFI troubleshooting. I ran out of time, bought dual carbs, weber ICT. While I waited for them to show up, I converted to an alternator and pulled all the EFI stuff and boxed it up.
When the carbs arrived I drilled the manifolds, put them all together, installed the new low pressure electric fuel pump and fired it up no problem. I set the carbs and got everything good to go...
First drive around the block I made it four blocks before I heard a noise from the back and lost oil pressure. I pulled over just as the car shuddered died. I went back and tried to move the fan with a pry bar and it was stuck, but good. Totally seized. Called my wife with our other car and pulled Moose home.
She's been sitting for a month while i get settled into a new position at work and lick my wounds.
I'm not going to lie, I'm incredibly discouraged to have to redo all the work again not to mention buying all the parts again. I also have a good amount of apprehension about my ability to do the job right.
My son keeps encouraging me to get her going so he can drive her to school next year. I had just started to teach him and my daughters to drive a car, and a manual to boot.
A good part of me just wants to throw in the towel, sell Moose, and buy a truck. _________________ 1969 orange squareback Velma
1969 grey squareback Moose |
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VWporscheGT3 Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2006 Posts: 2066 Location: Gardnerville, NV
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Posted: Wed May 12, 2021 8:04 am Post subject: Re: 1969 squareback "Moose" |
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Hoffman wrote: |
I didn't forget about this post. Covid and work really cut into all my time for a few months and my wife developed a very serious medical condition that put working on the car out of the picture for about 6 months
I made good progress, but lost all the photos. Long story short, I did something wrong and on the first trip out, the engine seized up after about a mile. No ETA for an autopsy
Long version:
I got the pan welded in, not perfect, but strong and serviceable. I struggled for a long time with the EFI. I went back and forth reading the sticky and other threads. I finally got it running, but still a little rough.
I found a few places that the seals were pretty gone and oil was leaking out so I decided to rebuild the engine. I got new heads, pistons, jugs, hardware, and seals. I found the old heads had cracks between the valve ports, so good thing I bought the new ones. I followed the Bentley and an acvw rebuild book. I didn't go in depth on the tear-down/rebuild because I needed a working car in a short amount of time.
I eventually got it all back together and could not get it started. I ran through every thing again and the EFI troubleshooting. I ran out of time, bought dual carbs, weber ICT. While I waited for them to show up, I converted to an alternator and pulled all the EFI stuff and boxed it up.
When the carbs arrived I drilled the manifolds, put them all together, installed the new low pressure electric fuel pump and fired it up no problem. I set the carbs and got everything good to go...
First drive around the block I made it four blocks before I heard a noise from the back and lost oil pressure. I pulled over just as the car shuddered died. I went back and tried to move the fan with a pry bar and it was stuck, but good. Totally seized. Called my wife with our other car and pulled Moose home.
She's been sitting for a month while i get settled into a new position at work and lick my wounds.
I'm not going to lie, I'm incredibly discouraged to have to redo all the work again not to mention buying all the parts again. I also have a good amount of apprehension about my ability to do the job right.
My son keeps encouraging me to get her going so he can drive her to school next year. I had just started to teach him and my daughters to drive a car, and a manual to boot.
A good part of me just wants to throw in the towel, sell Moose, and buy a truck. |
sometimes it just pays to cover it up for a while and come back to it when the motivation comes back. I know its discouraging . I've been there for sure. it took 14 years to get my fastback back on the road... hang in there bro! _________________ Schnell, SCHNELL!
I like being wrong, Because, it is another opportunity to learn. If you stop learning from your mistakes than what is the point?
If you have any questions about Forged ICON 4032 VW pistons just shoot me a line. |
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lawn ninja Samba Member
Joined: January 02, 2006 Posts: 1009 Location: Round Rock, TX
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Posted: Wed May 12, 2021 9:20 am Post subject: Re: 1969 squareback "Moose" |
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Hoffman wrote: |
I didn't forget about this post. Covid and work really cut into all my time for a few months and my wife developed a very serious medical condition that put working on the car out of the picture for about 6 months
I made good progress, but lost all the photos. Long story short, I did something wrong and on the first trip out, the engine seized up after about a mile. No ETA for an autopsy
Long version:
I got the pan welded in, not perfect, but strong and serviceable. I struggled for a long time with the EFI. I went back and forth reading the sticky and other threads. I finally got it running, but still a little rough.
I found a few places that the seals were pretty gone and oil was leaking out so I decided to rebuild the engine. I got new heads, pistons, jugs, hardware, and seals. I found the old heads had cracks between the valve ports, so good thing I bought the new ones. I followed the Bentley and an acvw rebuild book. I didn't go in depth on the tear-down/rebuild because I needed a working car in a short amount of time.
I eventually got it all back together and could not get it started. I ran through every thing again and the EFI troubleshooting. I ran out of time, bought dual carbs, weber ICT. While I waited for them to show up, I converted to an alternator and pulled all the EFI stuff and boxed it up.
When the carbs arrived I drilled the manifolds, put them all together, installed the new low pressure electric fuel pump and fired it up no problem. I set the carbs and got everything good to go...
First drive around the block I made it four blocks before I heard a noise from the back and lost oil pressure. I pulled over just as the car shuddered died. I went back and tried to move the fan with a pry bar and it was stuck, but good. Totally seized. Called my wife with our other car and pulled Moose home.
She's been sitting for a month while i get settled into a new position at work and lick my wounds.
I'm not going to lie, I'm incredibly discouraged to have to redo all the work again not to mention buying all the parts again. I also have a good amount of apprehension about my ability to do the job right.
My son keeps encouraging me to get her going so he can drive her to school next year. I had just started to teach him and my daughters to drive a car, and a manual to boot.
A good part of me just wants to throw in the towel, sell Moose, and buy a truck. |
Don't get too discouraged man. It takes this to figure out what not to do next time. You'll see in my signature my 58. That car took me 12 years to build. Life kept kicking me in the face and I just did what I could when I could. Right when I had it all together, I started the motor for the first time to do the break-in. And about 30 minutes in the motor seized. because the guy who built it used a double nut on the oil pump pickup. It worked it self off and got sucked somehow right up into the pump. It was a 1914cc I bought to try and save time and money, in the end I paid more than twice and built the motor myself so I knew it got done right.
Take that motor apart, piece by piece, figure out what and how the seizure happened. It will teach you a lot. Then post pics, there are lots of guys who have lots of time building both these cars and VW's in general. Most of them are super helpful and like passing knowledge on. Most likely you won't have to rebuy all the motor parts. _________________ Jason
My 64 1500 S Notchback project here
My 58 sedan project here
My 63 Ghia here |
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22328 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Wed May 12, 2021 3:54 pm Post subject: Re: 1969 squareback "Moose" |
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lawn ninja wrote: |
Hoffman wrote: |
I didn't forget about this post. Covid and work really cut into all my time for a few months and my wife developed a very serious medical condition that put working on the car out of the picture for about 6 months
I made good progress, but lost all the photos. Long story short, I did something wrong and on the first trip out, the engine seized up after about a mile. No ETA for an autopsy
Long version:
I got the pan welded in, not perfect, but strong and serviceable. I struggled for a long time with the EFI. I went back and forth reading the sticky and other threads. I finally got it running, but still a little rough.
I found a few places that the seals were pretty gone and oil was leaking out so I decided to rebuild the engine. I got new heads, pistons, jugs, hardware, and seals. I found the old heads had cracks between the valve ports, so good thing I bought the new ones. I followed the Bentley and an acvw rebuild book. I didn't go in depth on the tear-down/rebuild because I needed a working car in a short amount of time.
I eventually got it all back together and could not get it started. I ran through every thing again and the EFI troubleshooting. I ran out of time, bought dual carbs, weber ICT. While I waited for them to show up, I converted to an alternator and pulled all the EFI stuff and boxed it up.
When the carbs arrived I drilled the manifolds, put them all together, installed the new low pressure electric fuel pump and fired it up no problem. I set the carbs and got everything good to go...
First drive around the block I made it four blocks before I heard a noise from the back and lost oil pressure. I pulled over just as the car shuddered died. I went back and tried to move the fan with a pry bar and it was stuck, but good. Totally seized. Called my wife with our other car and pulled Moose home.
She's been sitting for a month while i get settled into a new position at work and lick my wounds.
I'm not going to lie, I'm incredibly discouraged to have to redo all the work again not to mention buying all the parts again. I also have a good amount of apprehension about my ability to do the job right.
My son keeps encouraging me to get her going so he can drive her to school next year. I had just started to teach him and my daughters to drive a car, and a manual to boot.
A good part of me just wants to throw in the towel, sell Moose, and buy a truck. |
Don't get too discouraged man. It takes this to figure out what not to do next time. You'll see in my signature my 58. That car took me 12 years to build. Life kept kicking me in the face and I just did what I could when I could. Right when I had it all together, I started the motor for the first time to do the break-in. And about 30 minutes in the motor seized. because the guy who built it used a double nut on the oil pump pickup. It worked it self off and got sucked somehow right up into the pump. It was a 1914cc I bought to try and save time and money, in the end I paid more than twice and built the motor myself so I knew it got done right.
Take that motor apart, piece by piece, figure out what and how the seizure happened. It will teach you a lot. Then post pics, there are lots of guys who have lots of time building both these cars and VW's in general. Most of them are super helpful and like passing knowledge on. Most likely you won't have to rebuy all the motor parts. |
Yup, agreed 100%. More than likely a bearing seized. I had that happen with my 64 T34, right after I had got most everything done (including a 20 minute break in). Number 1 bearing seized onto the crank. Starved of oil. It happens. Fortunately I was able to get the crank journals polished, and new bearings ordered, so I could put it back together again. I showed all the pics of it getting put back together too, complete with using a plastic milk crate as my engine stand. Just look thru my 64 T-34 build.
Like Lawn Ninja said don't get discouraged. You might just need to take a break from it all. Back in the 80's I took a 4 year break from VW's and played with GM's. Then I got back into VW's and have been into them since. Don't get me wrong, I still have a couple of Chevy's and a Toyota (winter car), but I still have my Notch, and my wife's Fastback to take care of. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Clatter Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003 Posts: 7526 Location: Santa Cruz
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Posted: Thu May 13, 2021 8:03 am Post subject: Re: 1969 squareback "Moose" |
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Welcome to the club!
It's rare that a first build goes 100% right.
Especially with bearings nowadays,
I'd bet it just needs bearings.
Now that you have done it once, the next time will go many times faster.
You should be able to have it out and apart in an afternoon.
Get it apart,
Clean the pieces up,
Take some pics and post them up.
Once you order what you think you need,
I'm only a couple hours away in Santa Cruz.
I can give you a second set of eyes in assembling the motor itself if you can get it here clean.
Have all of the tools and spares and machine shop connections and..
If it's all there,
A stocker can go together in a day. _________________ Bus Motor Build
What’s That Noise?!? |
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Hoffman Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2012 Posts: 18 Location: Fairfield, CA
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Posted: Wed Sep 29, 2021 8:50 pm Post subject: Re: 1969 squareback "Moose" |
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Alright, back at it. Recent events in parts of the world have kept me busy at work but progress is being made. Hey Clatter, we just bought our banana yellow dodge van from Santa Cruz a few months ago. Never been before that, but it was a great place to visit
My wife decided that she wanted to get in on the action so now this tear down and rebuild is a team effort. The first engine pull last year with a shady floor jack made the wife nervous, so i bought a cheap motorcycle floor jack and it worked great. I got the exhaust off and we dropped the engine way quicker and much safer. She's also way more into spending money on tools than I am. She decided we needed an air compressor and air tools to do the job right so she went out and got a 20 gallon and tool set. Can't afford Makita, but harbor freight is working alright so far.
We got to work pulling off the heads and jugs and....
Bobnotch and Clatter were right on the money. Number 2 rod spun a bearing. It was siezed tight. Luckily it was on an up stroke so we didn't have to reach too far in to get the nuts on the rod. popped the piston head off (which is still brand new) and took off the rod
Not sure if the crankshaft is gouged, or if its just bearing material melted onto the surface. Bobnotch, i read your thread, super nice build. The rag in the oil has me wanting to number my rags just in case. Just eyeballing it, any chance a polish would be enough like Bobnotch's?
We got the offending rod off and all the other rods moved really smooth, nothing too wiggly or binding.
At this point we started stripping the rest of the block so we can split it and get the crankshaft out. Unfortunately the flywheel gland nut is not having any of it. I've used heat, air impact wrench, heat, pb blaster and seafoam oil, breaker bar with a 4ft extension. I had the engine strapped to a stout board with my van parked on one end to hold it all down. In the middle of all this my homemade flywheel lock failed in a disastrous way along with the lower mounting stud. I didn't have a long enough bolt so i used the engine to transmission stud and bent that little sucker something good. Anyone ever do this before? I think it would be possible to just heat the stud and bend it back.
The only places close by that the ol' google directory shows are over in Sacramento mainly Bugformance, Chet and Cliffs VW garage, and Kombi Haus. Anyone have any experience with parts and service from these places?
Clatter, your offer is mighty tempting and I may take you up on it. I'm on 12hr night shifts until after Christmas so scheduling would be a pain. My wife has as needed hours at her place so it's a crap shoot for planning and savings (parts and labor ain't cheap and the kids are always whining for things like food and electricity)
I also just wanted to say thanks again for all the encouragement and support. VWporscheGT3, lawn ninja your timeframes help put stuff into perspective. This is a great site and community. _________________ 1969 orange squareback Velma
1969 grey squareback Moose |
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old_man Samba Member
Joined: June 19, 2018 Posts: 1381 Location: Newfoundland
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Posted: Thu Sep 30, 2021 5:49 am Post subject: Re: 1969 squareback "Moose" |
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I would not try to bend that stud straight in situ. I would unscrew it an assess if the damage is solely to the stud or if the case got buggered up. If it is only the stud that is bent then just replace it.
If it won't unscrew that's another story.
As for that nut, what kind of air impact are you using?
My experience is limited, others will chime in. BTW, I think it's awesome that you are tackling this with the wife. |
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22328 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Thu Sep 30, 2021 12:45 pm Post subject: Re: 1969 squareback "Moose" |
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Hoffman wrote: |
Alright, back at it.
Bobnotch and Clatter were right on the money. Number 2 rod spun a bearing. It was siezed tight. Luckily it was on an up stroke so we didn't have to reach too far in to get the nuts on the rod. popped the piston head off (which is still brand new) and took off the rod
Not sure if the crankshaft is gouged, or if its just bearing material melted onto the surface. Bobnotch, i read your thread, super nice build. The rag in the oil has me wanting to number my rags just in case. Just eyeballing it, any chance a polish would be enough like Bobnotch's?
We got the offending rod off and all the other rods moved really smooth, nothing too wiggly or binding.
At this point we started stripping the rest of the block so we can split it and get the crankshaft out. Unfortunately the flywheel gland nut is not having any of it. I've used heat, air impact wrench, heat, pb blaster and seafoam oil, breaker bar with a 4ft extension. I had the engine strapped to a stout board with my van parked on one end to hold it all down. In the middle of all this my homemade flywheel lock failed in a disastrous way along with the lower mounting stud. I didn't have a long enough bolt so i used the engine to transmission stud and bent that little sucker something good. Anyone ever do this before? I think it would be possible to just heat the stud and bend it back.
Clatter, your offer is mighty tempting and I may take you up on it. I'm on 12hr night shifts until after Christmas so scheduling would be a pain. My wife has as needed hours at her place so it's a crap shoot for planning and savings (parts and labor ain't cheap and the kids are always whining for things like food and electricity)
This is a great site and community. |
I think the crank will need to be re-ground, at least on that journal for sure. You might want to look around and see about a reground crank, and buy bearings for it and your case. I'd have the rod resized on the big end for sure. Steve (Clatter) might know of some better machine shops in your area, so I wouldn't hesitate in contacting him about better places for stuff to be done.
I'd double nut the stud, and pull it out to replace it. Those studs are cheap enough that you'll spend more time and energy trying to fix it than it's worth. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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andybla Samba Member
Joined: March 03, 2014 Posts: 630 Location: BE
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Posted: Thu Sep 30, 2021 12:57 pm Post subject: Re: 1969 squareback "Moose" |
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Doing a good job! Floor repair is looking good also! |
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Mike Fisher Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006 Posts: 17961 Location: Eugene, OR
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Posted: Thu Sep 30, 2021 1:02 pm Post subject: Re: 1969 squareback "Moose" |
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A Torque-Meister tool is necessary for gland nut loosening/tightening.
How to Rebuild Your Volkswagen Air-Cooled Engine by Tom Wilson is also helpful.
https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6515.htm _________________ https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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Hoffman Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2012 Posts: 18 Location: Fairfield, CA
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Posted: Thu Oct 14, 2021 11:41 am Post subject: Re: 1969 squareback "Moose" |
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Someone once said "Something something right tool something." Well, when i got a beefier flywheel lock we got the gland nut off. I somehow lost the photos of the us splitting the case and what not, but here are some pictures of all the bearing surfaces. It looks to me like, and i'm no expert, but it was only a matter of time before one of these siezed. Every. Single. One. had some sort of galling and pitting. Not sure how fresh any of the wear is, but it looks like it all of it is old
a couple of the cam
some of the mains
Here are some close ups of the crank and rod journal that spun
looking at these markings, I would think that this means the crank has been ground once already?
I didn't get any pictures, but while removing the other connecting rods I noticed all the rod bearings had one bearing tab opposite the others. As near as I can tell both tabs are supposed to be on the same side. Other than that everything else looks really good. No cracks or clogs. I'm really leaning to buying a new crank, new rods, and all new bearings. The cam still looked good. _________________ 1969 orange squareback Velma
1969 grey squareback Moose |
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22328 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Thu Oct 14, 2021 4:44 pm Post subject: Re: 1969 squareback "Moose" |
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Hoffman wrote: |
looking at these markings, I would think that this means the crank has been ground once already?
I didn't get any pictures, but while removing the other connecting rods I noticed all the rod bearings had one bearing tab opposite the others. As near as I can tell both tabs are supposed to be on the same side. Other than that everything else looks really good. No cracks or clogs. I'm really leaning to buying a new crank, new rods, and all new bearings. The cam still looked good. |
I've never seen bearings marked like that before, must be some sort of Chinese bearing.
I think I'd go with your gut, and get another crank, rods, and bearings (cam too), as those old bearings have particles of bearing embedded in them, and you really don't want that in a fresh engine.
You'll want to "power wash" the engine out, oil passages and all. Steve could give you a good list of stuff to use for cleaning, as he builds engines on a regular basis (I might do 1, every couple of years, maybe even longer in between). In fact the most recent engine I rebuilt was a 4 cylinder Honda engine, and before that it was a 350 Chevy V8. I do a lot of different stuff, rather than a lot of the same stuff.
I hope this helps. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Hoffman Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2012 Posts: 18 Location: Fairfield, CA
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Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2021 7:46 pm Post subject: Re: 1969 squareback "Moose" |
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Things move slowly, but they are moving. I didn't want to pay $80 or more for a puller or have someone do it so i welded up a puller out of some flat stock. Here's my youngest daughter learning to weld a little helping me out.
After we got the gears pulled I found that the two shops in Sac just sell new or refurbished and i didn't want to waste a bunch of time to save $30 to have the crank shaft ground so i bought a new crank shaft, rods, and all new bearings and seals.
After a lot of trepidation about installing the gears on the new shaft, The wife and I followed the Bentley manual and heated them in oil and slid them on. There was a little trouble with the crank gear cooling a little fast that required a torch and some persuasion. But I did discover the original marking on the spacer and woodruf key, so that was pretty neat.
_________________ 1969 orange squareback Velma
1969 grey squareback Moose |
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22328 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2021 8:21 am Post subject: Re: 1969 squareback "Moose" |
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Looks like you're doing good. The dressing of the crank gears is probably the hardest part, that you're doing right now. After that it's easy, until it's time to line up the cam and crank gears with the distributor drive shaft. For that, you'll want a distributor to hold the drive in place, as it'll try to jump out. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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