stock bus 1.7 type IV build

[busdaddy]

The holes were threaded at one time, valve adjuster screws work for plugs too. The plug has to go deep, the upper part of the hole passes through a couple of cooling fins before it gets to the meaty part.
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[dlwilson]

I found an assortment of allen pliugs on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T641VR8

I used the longer length of M10x1.0 plug, which I believe was a 10mm long plug. I put some blue loctite on them, used a really long Allen socket, and spun them into place. I did have to remove the carbs, intake manifolds, and sheet metal, unfortunately. I was concerned that I might screw the plugs in too far, and have them fall into the exhaust port, but the threads in the smog holes bottom out, so that wasn't a problem.

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1977 Bus, with 1973 1.7L engine (rebuild complete, install underway)

[dlwilson]

Once I had the smog hole plugs in, and the engine reassembled, it was time to run it again. By now I had real ground and battery cables, so the battery was properly connected to the transmission and starter. I didn't hook up the oil pressure light this time, since there was no problem at the previous startup. The only electrical connection was a jumper from the hot post on the starter to the coil, and then coil fed the distributor, and the chokes and shutoffs on the carbs. Time to fire it up.

It ran just fine. I ran it up to pretty high revs, over 2K, and held it there while I walked around. No oil leaks, no exhaust leaks, and it ran smoothly. Eventually the air blowing through the oil cooler warmed up, but not too hot for my hand. I was shooting for 20 minutes of cam break-in time, but it ran out of gas at 19 minutes.

And the alternator was even charging, at 14.16V.

YouTube video here: https://youtu.be/KU5KnIL4AaY

I'll post more here about the engine, but for now I'm going to focus on getting the engine into the bus, and the bus running and driving. Thread for that is here: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=747712

Thanks for everybody's help. I couldn't have done it without you all. Especially raygreenwood for sending those case bolt isolators.
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1977 Bus, with 1973 1.7L engine (rebuild complete, install underway)

[dlwilson]

Okay, one more question. What to do for a barrel nut in the carburetor linkage? This used set came to me without one. The opening is just shy of 0.5", and all of the throttle/heater nuts I see on the interweb look smaller than that. Any suggestions?

And also I'm still really pleased that the used alternator and $30 voltage regulator work together and the system is charging.

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1977 Bus, with 1973 1.7L engine (rebuild complete, install underway)

[busdaddy]

[dlwilson]

[busdaddy]

#17 is an E clip, but try what you have, it may work. You need the return spring, it's longer than what the diagram shows, it hooks into a hole in the upper roof structure of the engine compartment, #21 is a little plastic grommet for the hole it hooks in. It's not a super strong spring, long and kinda loose, but it's needed to drag the throttle cable back and lift the pedal, takes the load off the linkage and throttle shafts a bit.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!