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DocNexil Samba Member
Joined: January 19, 2021 Posts: 145 Location: Southern Utah
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Posted: Sat May 15, 2021 4:54 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I'm going to be timing my engine, do I need to disconnect my vacuum hose between my distributer and my carb? I've done a static timing but will be doing one with a strobe light.
Also, do I need to do any special adjustment in the timing for altitude? I'm at 5,800' above sea level. I'm not sure if it quite high enough to make a big difference.
Thanks! _________________ 1971 Dormobile "Juliett"
1970 beetle "Rudie" |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51126 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sat May 15, 2021 5:25 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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DocNexil wrote: |
I'm going to be timing my engine, do I need to disconnect my vacuum hose between my distributer and my carb? I've done a static timing but will be doing one with a strobe light.
Also, do I need to do any special adjustment in the timing for altitude? I'm at 5,800' above sea level. I'm not sure if it quite high enough to make a big difference.
Thanks! |
Yes, remove the hose from the distributor for timing, rev the engine until the mark stops moving even though the revs are still climbing and read the scale there. For altitude the timing is the subject of much debate, I'd go 32 degrees and work on getting the carb jets just right, 5800' will likely require some leaning. Watch the timing mark at idle when you connect the hose back up, some of those Webers make vacuum at idle, you may have to adjust the throttle plate and bypass screws.
Here's a search for "timing altitude" so you can do some reading and make up your own mind: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc..._chars=200 _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Слава Україні! |
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DocNexil Samba Member
Joined: January 19, 2021 Posts: 145 Location: Southern Utah
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Posted: Sat May 15, 2021 6:12 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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busdaddy wrote: |
Yes, remove the hose from the distributor for timing, rev the engine until the mark stops moving even though the revs are still climbing and read the scale there. For altitude the timing is the subject of much debate, I'd go 32 degrees and work on getting the carb jets just right, 5800' will likely require some leaning. Watch the timing mark at idle when you connect the hose back up, some of those Webers make vacuum at idle, you may have to adjust the throttle plate and bypass screws.
Here's a search for "timing altitude" so you can do some reading and make up your own mind: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc..._chars=200 |
Thank you very much! One last thing, do I need to plug either the carb or distributer while disconnected from each other or can they just be open? _________________ 1971 Dormobile "Juliett"
1970 beetle "Rudie" |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51126 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sat May 15, 2021 6:27 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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DocNexil wrote: |
busdaddy wrote: |
Yes, remove the hose from the distributor for timing, rev the engine until the mark stops moving even though the revs are still climbing and read the scale there. For altitude the timing is the subject of much debate, I'd go 32 degrees and work on getting the carb jets just right, 5800' will likely require some leaning. Watch the timing mark at idle when you connect the hose back up, some of those Webers make vacuum at idle, you may have to adjust the throttle plate and bypass screws.
Here's a search for "timing altitude" so you can do some reading and make up your own mind: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc..._chars=200 |
Thank you very much! One last thing, do I need to plug either the carb or distributer while disconnected from each other or can they just be open? |
For that distributor with only a single hose you can leave it open, unless it dies when you pull off the hose, then there's bigger problems you may have to solve before you can time properly. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Slip356 Samba Member
Joined: July 26, 2006 Posts: 394
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Posted: Sun May 16, 2021 5:02 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Always remember to re check timing once you re connect the vacuum hose. It should advance 10 or more degrees from the 28-32 as the vacuums advance works.
Your Bentley manual has a neat chart showing the exact amount of additional advance for the distributor you have. |
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clabby93 Samba Member
Joined: July 26, 2020 Posts: 12 Location: New York
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Posted: Mon May 17, 2021 8:48 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Back with more stupid questions... rebuilt my dual kadrons and now they're both weeping gas out of the backs. Seems like the fuel strainer cap and the main bowl gasket are both leaking, but honestly it's tough to see back there and determine if it's all from the cap alone.
I torqued the main gasket in a star pattern to very snug with a screwdriver, and the strainer cap nice and tight with a wrench. Surfaces are level and were resurfaced by kaddie shack 5yrs (and maybe 100 miles tops, bus just sat) ago.
Is this definitely a gasket issue or could it be something else to do with the carbs? Fuel pressure is right at 2psi, at least according to my cheapo gauge. I assume using gasket sealant is a bad idea on the bowl gasket but I'm not sure where to go from here.
EDIT: After a bunch more poking around and fishing a camera back there, it seems like it's 100% seeping from the brass fuel strainer cap. I lowered the FPR down to 1.5psi and it's still seeping. Reinstalled the fitting a few different times with varying torque and finally some permatex, nothing fully seals it up though.
Is my float level wrong? I believe the only adjustability on kadrons are the 2 shims on the needle seat, I have both on exactly as they came from kaddie shack originally. What am I missing here? |
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mahontim Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2021 Posts: 1 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Mon May 17, 2021 12:41 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Any suggestions on a new battery for a 1968 Bay Window? Auto Zone says: Duralast Battery 42-DL Group Size 42 500 CCA. Figured you'd be a good bunch to confirm with.
I'm new to the board. The wife and I bought a 1968 Bus last summer. No idea what we're doing. But we're having a great time doing it!
The battery died over the winter.... Started the bus every few weeks over the winter and could hear it run down each time, took longer to turner over. Luckily I live on a small hill so I could roll it out of the garage and pop the clutch. Feel like it's time to invest in a brand new battery. |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338
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Posted: Mon May 17, 2021 2:24 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Better to remove the battery from the rig during the winter and keep it somewhere where it stays above freezing than to damage your engine by repeatedly starting it and never getting it hot enough for long enough to boil out the water that accumulates when an engine is run cold over and over.
A T6 battery crosses to a Group 42, while an H6 has the same foot print, but is a tad taller. |
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chift Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2016 Posts: 33
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Posted: Wed May 19, 2021 6:11 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Hey Folks,
Couple questions I'm hoping you all can help with! I need to do the clutch so I'm pulling the engine out (this is my first time!) I've followed Ratwell's instructions but i'm struggling to find where to put the piece of wood motor. Note I will be using a motorcycle jack.
Looking at the picture I feel I want to put it in front of the two lines that come out of the bottom (they are flexible I figure they would be squished), but I feel if I put the piece of wood in front of them the center of gravity will be off.
Second question. I've read multiple post that pulling both the engine and the transmission at the same time is easier. I do need to pull the transmission to do the drive axel flange.... So my question is (a) is it easier to pull both at once? and (b) where do you put the jack to support both if you do pull both at once?
Thanks!
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51126 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Wed May 19, 2021 6:34 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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chift wrote: |
Hey Folks,
Couple questions I'm hoping you all can help with! I need to do the clutch so I'm pulling the engine out (this is my first time!) I've followed Ratwell's instructions but i'm struggling to find where to put the piece of wood motor. Note I will be using a motorcycle jack.
Looking at the picture I feel I want to put it in front of the two lines that come out of the bottom (they are flexible I figure they would be squished), but I feel if I put the piece of wood in front of them the center of gravity will be off.
Second question. I've read multiple post that pulling both the engine and the transmission at the same time is easier. I do need to pull the transmission to do the drive axel flange.... So my question is (a) is it easier to pull both at once? and (b) where do you put the jack to support both if you do pull both at once?
Thanks!
[/img] |
If you are dealing with a drive axle flange pull both as a unit, put the jack under the engine to trans joint, or slightly onto the engine side. Transmission work is much less fun when it's still in the bus, and there are probably other things that need doing while it's on the floor.
The "lines" that are in your way are a cold weather block heater, you likely won't squish them, but blocks placed around them to miss the bendy bits wouldn't hurt. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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chift Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2016 Posts: 33
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Posted: Wed May 19, 2021 7:01 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Thanks Busdaddy, as always your are a great help.
Sounds good, I'll prep the trans to remove both at once. I'll put the jack at the joint and block up (with a piece of wood) the transmission as I have a feeling it would tip over? Maybe not since the motor weighs more than the trans?
I hate to ask, but is there a list of things somewhere I should do while I have the motor/trans out? I rather not have the motor out for the rest of the summer but makes sense to do as much as I can now. |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51126 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338
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Posted: Wed May 19, 2021 9:19 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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What are you doing to the drive axle flanges? Removing them to replace the seals is easy. I wouldn't dream of pulling the tranny solely to do this. Now if something in the nose cone needs work or if you want to replace the shift rod bushings that would be a different story.
FWIW I find mating the engine to the tranny with the tranny already installed in the van to be very easy, I don't understand all the claimed problems with doing it this way. |
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alman72 Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2014 Posts: 2573 Location: MICHIGAN
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Posted: Sat May 22, 2021 6:42 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Took the 73 out of winter rest and took it for a 8 mile drive, parked it had dinner, then drove home. seemed just fine. Smelled a little warm, and the rear bumper was pretty warm/hot, as was the rear apron. normal stuff, or cause for concern? i read retarded timing may cause detonation in the muffler? it was avout 80 degrees outside |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51126 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sat May 22, 2021 7:05 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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alman72 wrote: |
Took the 73 out of winter rest and took it for a 8 mile drive, parked it had dinner, then drove home. seemed just fine. Smelled a little warm, and the rear bumper was pretty warm/hot, as was the rear apron. normal stuff, or cause for concern? i read retarded timing may cause detonation in the muffler? it was avout 80 degrees outside |
Unless the paint is peeling off it's nothing to get concerned about, it's location pretty well asks for it. If you want to sleep better do a tune up. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338
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Posted: Sat May 22, 2021 7:50 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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alman72 wrote: |
Took the 73 out of winter rest and took it for a 8 mile drive, parked it had dinner, then drove home. seemed just fine. Smelled a little warm, and the rear bumper was pretty warm/hot, as was the rear apron. normal stuff, or cause for concern? i read retarded timing may cause detonation in the muffler? it was avout 80 degrees outside |
If you don't have the original heat shield over the muffler, you might be seeing a bit higher temperature than you would see if it was there, but a BD says that area being hot is normal. To try to come up with some standard, after an eight mile drive without a lot of idling/slow moving mixed in the fan shroud shouldn't be particularly hot, maybe 10-20°F above ambient, whereas after a 30 mile drive on a summer's day its going to be pretty danged hot. |
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KentABQ Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2016 Posts: 2406 Location: Albuquerque NM
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Posted: Sun May 23, 2021 5:56 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Is it possible for a new oil filter to cause very high oil pressure?
My engine suddenly developed high oil pressure (pegged the 80psi gauge) while running above 2000rpm, and around 40psi at idle.
And the only work done on the engine prior to this problem was an oil/filter change and valve adjustment. _________________ -Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"
"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea
Bus ownership via emoticons:
---williamM |
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alman72 Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2014 Posts: 2573 Location: MICHIGAN
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Posted: Sun May 23, 2021 6:13 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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busdaddy wrote: |
alman72 wrote: |
Took the 73 out of winter rest and took it for a 8 mile drive, parked it had dinner, then drove home. seemed just fine. Smelled a little warm, and the rear bumper was pretty warm/hot, as was the rear apron. normal stuff, or cause for concern? i read retarded timing may cause detonation in the muffler? it was avout 80 degrees outside |
Unless the paint is peeling off it's nothing to get concerned about, it's location pretty well asks for it. If you want to sleep better do a tune up. |
I seem to have lost my timing gun in the last year. didnt really like the one i had. any recomendations? I had only used it twice, so not sure what to get. someone held my hand on the last purchase and they are not around anymore. |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51126 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sun May 23, 2021 9:11 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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KentABQ wrote: |
Is it possible for a new oil filter to cause very high oil pressure?
My engine suddenly developed high oil pressure (pegged the 80psi gauge) while running above 2000rpm, and around 40psi at idle.
And the only work done on the engine prior to this problem was an oil/filter change and valve adjustment. |
It could happen, like anything else the odd defective filter must slip by quality control. Same viscosity oil as previous times? _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51126 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sun May 23, 2021 9:13 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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alman72 wrote: |
busdaddy wrote: |
alman72 wrote: |
Took the 73 out of winter rest and took it for a 8 mile drive, parked it had dinner, then drove home. seemed just fine. Smelled a little warm, and the rear bumper was pretty warm/hot, as was the rear apron. normal stuff, or cause for concern? i read retarded timing may cause detonation in the muffler? it was avout 80 degrees outside |
Unless the paint is peeling off it's nothing to get concerned about, it's location pretty well asks for it. If you want to sleep better do a tune up. |
I seem to have lost my timing gun in the last year. didnt really like the one i had. any recomendations? I had only used it twice, so not sure what to get. someone held my hand on the last purchase and they are not around anymore. |
The best timing lights are on Craigslist or other online marketplaces selling the contents of Dad's garage after he passes away or moves to the retirement home. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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