6 Volt Headlights

[obnoxiousblue]

I had JUST finished installing my restored radio, and with it my new trunk liner and wire cover when I realized my drivers side headlight was out. Of course, I thought I botched up wires and shorted something out so - out came the trunk liner!
Then I got the bright idea to test the plug with my test light - it lit. So I swapped bulbs and the other bulb did work. Of course. Always something!

What 6V headlights are folks running?
I thought about LED, and I even went on DanielSternLighting but the sealed beam 6V options he has are in the high side - even for me.
I have Phillips sealed beams in there now.
Curious what everyone else is running since you can’t just walk into the parts store and leave with a 6V bulb around here.
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Mike
1964 Beetle
2001 Eurovan Camper

[KTPhil]

I'd recommend replacing your sealed beams with Hella H4 replacements with the E-code (NOT DOT) lenses and new 6V bulbs. That's what I did years ago, along with cleaning EVERY connection (including grounds) and making sure they gripped tightly. Night and day change!
And if you want those LED upgrades later they can replace the bulb, and you keep all the rest of the hardware and wiring improvements.

https://www.amazon.com/Hella-002395031-HLMP-165MM-...&psc=1

https://www.quadratec.com/products/97009_6001.htm?...9QQAvD_BwE

[obnoxiousblue]

Thanks KTPhill!
Does your set up draw more power from the car? Or is it just a combination of the bulb type and fresnel pattern?
I see the two links, these are just the housings - right? There’s no bulbs included here. What bulbs are you running in these? I assume that plays a big role in the light output?
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Mike
1964 Beetle
2001 Eurovan Camper

[Frederik]

It's may also be a good idea to install a headligt relay (dual for low/high beam) to minimaze voltage drop trough headligt switch, old wires, connectors etc.

I'm not sure what the US original sealed beam draw, but the normal euro bulb from the time was 45/40W (high/low), a 6V H4 is usually 60/55W. With a stock 180W generator the 30W extra load can accually put strain on the charging or at least with radio/stereo its good to monitoring the charging. I have a cheap voltage meter/ USB charger and with halogen bulbs the voltage starts to drop especially if you need to use wipers, have the radio on or other asseccory with the headlights. But you can easy change some small bulbs sutch as licens plate, parking lights, tail lights to LED and make up for the extra load.

[Eric&Barb]

[obnoxiousblue]

Finally got to dig into this a little yesterday. I removed the dim headlight and cleaned the three connections that go into the spring-plug. Used some sandpaper to bring them to nice shiny metal, then applied a thin amount of dielectric grease and reinstalled. I cleaned the ground where it screws in just inside the trunk and gave it a go. Nope. Still dim.

Then, I took the passenger side headlight housing (still working good) and plugged it in and it lit right up.

I’ll order a new set of bulbs up today, but am mostly curious. I didn’t think a “bad” bulb would still illuminate. I thought maybe I crossed wires on the spring clip, nope. I thought maybe it was the plugs, nope.
Has anyone ever seen a blown bulb still illuminate dimly?
_________________
Mike
1964 Beetle
2001 Eurovan Camper

[KTPhil]

Yes, it can happen. If it is jostled when hot it can change its shape. Some grow dim, some get bright, but all soon die.

[hitest]

Bulbs are among resistors that can suffer just as badly from under voltage as they do from being over-juiced.
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[toxicavenger70]

Mike while you are doing all this cleaning I would unhook the battery and clean all of your fuse box terminals and connectors. I usually tear off a small piece of sandpaper and fold it in half. Then I insert it into the spade connectors and move it back and forth until they are clean. These connections get super dirty and can cause all kinds of issues.

[obnoxiousblue]

[toxicavenger70]

[Danwvw]

In your 64 Beetle the headlight circuit may have some problem areas. My 60 has the foot switch instead of the relay. Pretty Much every connection is going to loose some voltage. The worst connection is usually at the headlight itself! My foot switch loses about 1/2 a volt for each headlight. Fuse block looses about 0.2 volts. With some cleaning and oiling I got my losses down to about 0.1 volts at each connection. But the Headlight connectors still loose 0.5 volts each.
LED Headlights in 6 volts are not worth getting.
I ordered the Bus Depot H4 conversion E Code headlights which are nice looking and are way brighter than any sealed beam 7" round 6 volt headlights. Also consider the condition of the Battery and the Regulator and the Generator. When I checked my mechanical regulator I discovered it was charging good till I ran the headlights about 5 minutes then it dropped off to only charge about 6 volts! Tried several mechanical voltage regulators and each one seemed to have some kind of problem, some made my lights flicker at high rpm and checking the voltage I found it was bouncing between 6 and 9 volts.

With the Electronics available today I recommend a Solid state Regulator.
But If the connections are good and the regulator generator output is a solid 7.00 volts then the H4's like the E-Code ones from Bus Depot are great.

Here is a photo of one of my homemade 7.00 Volt VW voltage Regulators:

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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[obnoxiousblue]

Posted here instead of in my car’s build thread. Sorry!
Moving my post. Mod can delete.
_________________
Mike
1964 Beetle
2001 Eurovan Camper