Dash Trim 1966 Ghia and 3D Printing services

[easy e]

I don't recall how shiny the trim was originally.
This might be an option:

Link

_________________
aka: Evan
Spreadsheet for Bus RPM, based on gearing & tire size (Excel format)
Searchable, click-navigable 1958 Bus Parts List

[guidoamisano]

Nick,

Thanks for sharing your results. I am interested to know what method your plater used. I.e. did they triple plate (nickel, copper, chrome)? I could see how there may be an excessive build up around the ridges making it appear to be flattened, or the appearance of melting. I would think that vacuum metalizing might be a better option to process these. I've never had it done, but just something I've been toying with in my mind. Looks like we are getting closer! Also, great job on the radio plate!

Guido

[guidoamisano]

Also, just a thought on the ridges....when you zoom in on the comparison between the 3d printed parts next to the original, the ridges appear to be a tad bit higher on the original. Wondering if adding a few thousands to the height might help eliminate the excessive build up appearance by making it more pronounced like the originals???? Again, its just a thought, and not having held one in my hands thats just how it appears in the photo.

[Disc]

Indeed that was vacuum metalizing what they used or at least that's what they said. The man that i talked to said that they need to spray a sort of primer before the process. Asked him can that layer be thinner but the answer was - no.

Probably those can be saved. The "plating" is soft and can be cut and "unwarped" from the part. Little spray paint in the middle and the result is:

_________________
The glory never gets old, just need new paint.
-------------------------------------------------
Nick

[cmdrfire]

I tacked up (with masking tape) the trims finally to see how they look.
The answer is: not too bad at all. I think they require another wet sand to really bring up the shine. It's not quite as good as a true chrome application in terms of the mirror finish.

I couldn't help but tack up one of my re-chromed trim rings as well.

The "centre" piece of trim is too long, and overshoots onto the glovebox by I'd reckon 1-1.5cm. It will require trimming so I will measure it a bit more carefully tomorrow and cut it with a dremel.

[xzener]

Those look really nice. Love how 3D printing is bringing back impossible to find parts. Well done!
_________________
My 70 beetle was totaled Now to build the Ghia I always wanted. Rest in peace Ruby, I will miss you. Hello <insert Ghia name here>!

[guidoamisano]

Nick,

So, if I understand correctly you took a razor blade and cut length-wise on the top & bottom of the inner portion of the trim and stripped the plating off? Doesn't look half-bad.

Also, I think the primer the guy was talking about was a copper primer, which the chrome would adhere to during the plating process.

OK I'm going to pull the trigger and buy the 3D parts and do some of my own experimentation. Thanks for sharing your results.

Guido

[bnam]

What about Bare Metal Foil that modeler use?
_________________
1971 1302LS Convertible (RHD) owned since '74
Click to view image
1965 Karmann Ghia Coupe - under restoration
1966 Fiat 1500 Cabrio (with 1600 Twin cam)
1952 Citroen TA 11BL

[guidoamisano]

BNAM,

Regarding your question about the Bare Metal Foil...while I have never used their product before, I did previously own a sign & graphics business and have used similar Chrome Metalized Polyester films in the past. It is a valid suggestion, as the appearance is pretty chrome-like.

From a practical standpoint, i thought I'd run a test on a piece to see how realistic it would be to use it on the '66 Ghia trim. Although I didn't have the Chrome film on hand, I do have some older leftover Cast Vinyl that I used on the trim piece. (*NOTE: Cast Vinyl is much more workable and pliable than the metalized poly film).

As you can see in the pics, the following issues are problematic when using films:

1. Bubbles are always a challenge even on flat surfaces. Add compound curves and varying surface angles into the mix, and it increases the likelihood of air entrapment beneath the film.

2. There are many ridges throughout these trim pieces, which means the film needs to stretch to some degree. When it stretches, the film tends to lift away from the inside corners of the ridges, which makes it painfully obvious that a film was used. Combine that with the fact that these films tend to shrink over time (and with varying temperatures)..and with shrinkage the pull of the film on the inside corners increases which causes more lifting away from the surfaces.

So, my conclusion is not so much that using a chrome film is impossible per se, but that its impractical, and that there's a high likelihood of failure over time. I would personally attempt to paint it before wasting additional time applying the film.

Hope this helps answer your question.

Guido

[olspeed]

While I don't know what you used for your covering, it is nothing like Bare Metal foil. It looks like your stuff is vacuum formed over the piece where BMF is cut to the basic size and burnished down into the compound curves with a pencil eraser or tooth pick also, also as the company says " it looks like metal because it is metal".
https://www.bare-metal.com/bare-metal-foil.html

I have used this stuff on my car models for years with more than great results, and while I think it would not be cost effective as there are places that do chrome plating on plastic, I think it would work quite well.
_________________
66- Ghia
76-Beetle

[guidoamisano]

Its calendared, high performance vinyl used for the sign and auto-wrapping industries. Self adhesive material that gets burnished onto the mating surface, same as the BMF. It's designed to conform to ridges and compound curves with the help from some heat.

I am not saying the BMF wouldn't work if you spent enough time working it, but my point is that if it's difficult to get a film that is actually designed for this purpose to work, then I would expect it to be all the more difficult for metallic films, which in my experience do not stretch well, to work without some significant effort and frustration. It's just an opinion...take it for what it's worth. Just trying to contribute.

[olspeed]

Not trying to say that you you don't know your stuff, but I have used this BMF on plastic models for close to 20 years. It works well on compound curves ridges pretty much anything plastic, if you get an air bubble a new #11 blade takes care of it and after you burnish it down you can't see it. The only problem that I see is the price as the last time I got some from the local hobby store it was over $10.00 bucks a sheet and to do like a 1/48 scale B17 in a metal finish you would be looking at close to at least three sheets with wastage for just one color, and of course you would need extra different color sheets to add panels to give it more realism. So not cheap.
_________________
66- Ghia
76-Beetle

[guidoamisano]

All good. Its all in the name of finding a good solution. Be interesting to see someone give it a shot. Only other thing that could be an issue is the length of the BMF film. Based on their website, it appears that the dimensions are 8"x11"....the glove box and one piece radio delete trim may be a tad longer. Would have to measure to be sure. If they are longer, then you would have to seem it or overlap it at some point.

[Disc]

After few conversations with the company that "chrome plated" last time the trim pieces, we decided to do another try. The result is way more acceptable, the bad news in this case is the printed pieces - they are locally printed and not with the great quality of Shapeways.com, you can clearly see the printed layers. But the plating is really thin and doesn't fill all the fine details in the "valley" of the trim.

_________________
The glory never gets old, just need new paint.
-------------------------------------------------
Nick