2.1 MV rebuild

[90weekender]

Thanks Dan

I see it's available from a few suppliers...looks like a part I could get a plumbing store!

Vanistan wants nearly $800 for the deluxe kit with the water/oil delete option. Plus their kit places the cooler and fan on the right side of the engine...which requires a long run of hose.

I am wondering why it's not located on the left/drivers side which would be a shorter and more direct route for the oil lines.

R

[DanHoug]

this is what you're looking for:

if one of the Samba vendors has them, please chime up! otherwise the pn resolves correctly for me. here's one place that has them:
https://www.vwpartsvortex.com/oem-parts/volkswagen-fitting-059115721
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-dan
60% of what you find on the internet is wrong, including this post.

'87 Westy & '89 Westy both 2.1 4spd

Past projects can be found at--
www.thefixitworkshop.com

[4Gears4Tires]

[RGS Paul]

[DanHoug]

[90weekender]

Dan,

What do you think your fan-less system cost you?

[DanHoug]

[90weekender]

Looks good Dan.

I have a crazy idea:

If I delete my AC compressor, can I use the AC lines and cooler to cool my engine oil?

[Howesight]

I am assuming the question was a joke, but in case it was not a joke, the answer is no.

AC fittings and hose would function, but would require AC-to-non-AC hose fittings which do not exist. Parker hose could help.
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'86 Syncro Westy SVX

[DanHoug]

if you re-use AC lines as oil cooler hoses you'll not be getting any Christmas cookies from the engine rebuild gods. you've either bought new or replated nearly every shiny bit, why cheap out on the artery of your engine? get the Aeroquip StartLite hose and sleep with smug impunity.

much consternation about deleting AC.... i LOVE my AC delete and that's the only thing that matters. screw resale, i'm the terminal user of this van.
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-dan
60% of what you find on the internet is wrong, including this post.

'87 Westy & '89 Westy both 2.1 4spd

Past projects can be found at--
www.thefixitworkshop.com

[4Gears4Tires]

[90weekender]

Added the exhaust today...at least the big stuff. I chose to keep my original system and painted it with Hight Temp rattle can stuff. It will likely chip off pretty quickly, but I wanted to give the OEM spec look a shot.

Rebuilt injectors from a shop in Chino. $100
All my yellow plating was a gift from a friend and done by VanNuys plating $150.
All new hardware for the entire project was from Belmetric at about $125
I’d like to use the original style blue spring clamps for fuel lines, but they really bite into the hose. Any suggestions?

[DanHoug]

that's so gorgeous. after my rebuild someone suggested i flip my fuel injector manifolds around so the end caps face rear... better to keep an eye on any leaking. i did that after installing a set of injectors.

i'm in a corrosion/salt area so i went with exhaust studs all the way around and used long brass cap nuts to cover the exposed threads as they rust off to mush around here. i'm really happy with them after a couple years:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=714759&highlight=

as you can see, my head nuts aren't nearly as nice as yours! but i did sand them flat on the sealing surface and used green Curil T instead of the mystery yellow goo.
_________________
-dan
60% of what you find on the internet is wrong, including this post.

'87 Westy & '89 Westy both 2.1 4spd

Past projects can be found at--
www.thefixitworkshop.com

[DanHoug]

and my laaaast comment on your beautiful engine... here's what i think of the distributor cap RF shields. at least pull your metal one off to clean and inspect. or throw.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=751350&highlight=
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-dan
60% of what you find on the internet is wrong, including this post.

'87 Westy & '89 Westy both 2.1 4spd

Past projects can be found at--
www.thefixitworkshop.com

[MarkWard]

I don’t see pushrod tube shields. I wouldn’t necessarily install the originals, I’ve seen some decent aftermarket solutions. I’d prefer something.
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☮️

[DanHoug]

[90weekender]

Dan,

I'm still catching up to your previous comments on stud thread sealants. Nickel seems to be the best. Is copper compound so bad? Seems like a standard practice.

My original steel studs were removed without a fuss. However, in the spirit of making this a better than stock build, I used stainless bolts, nuts and the original steel studs which were pristine. I used copper thread compound on the exhaust studs and bolts with high temp exposure. And I'm not excited to pull these, clean them and install the nickel stuff.

As a general note to Noobs:
One of the hardest parts of this build has been researching the assembly compounds. What a maze. I've got like 8 tubes and cans of toxic stuff I'll never use again that cost $25 each. Pros can use this stuff on multiple builds to offset costs.

WRT to distributor:
I'm fanatical about maintenance so will keep the metal shield on my distributor.

WRT to push rod tube shields, I planned to install originals after the engine is in the van.

[90weekender]

Revisiting fuel hoses.

Hose:
Looking at buying the metric stuff from Buslab:
https://www.buslab.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=N0202811&CartID=6

Is this stuff as durable as I need? Chemistries have changes over the years. Gowesty is selling a better more durable hose for modern fuels.

I've heard Gates makes a fuel line that deals with methanol additives in modern fuels.
[/url]https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/fuel-line-hose.html[url]

Thanks

[DanHoug]

fuel line is rilly rilly critical and there's lots of mis-information. J30R14 and J30R9 are two standards you'll hear thrown around but beware there is LOW PRESSURE J30R14 but i've not seen any but HIGH PRESSURE J30R9. so. the most modern standard is probably J30R14 but make SURE you get the 225psi variant. they sell both a low and high pressure variant. this is one area where i wouldn't trust anyone but my own research and buy Gates Barricade J30R14 or J30R9 in the *225 psi* variant!!! do your research and buy accordingly. you WILL be screwed if you buy the low pressure variant.

used two styles of hose clamps.
ABA 22013 stainless 13mm screw clamps- i use these on the FI rails and pump outlet so i can release them to pull injectors out for cleaning.

Oetiker 16700014 StepLess Ear Clamp, One Ear, Clamp ID Range 12.3 mm (Closed) - 14.8. i use these everywhere else.
_________________
-dan
60% of what you find on the internet is wrong, including this post.

'87 Westy & '89 Westy both 2.1 4spd

Past projects can be found at--
www.thefixitworkshop.com

[90weekender]

Dan,

Belmetric has these:

These are gorgeous but an ID of 13.3 too small for the OD of the Gates fuel hose of 14.2. How do you get them to fit?
https://www.belmetric.com/aba-dual-drive-hex-c-15_...-4330.html

These come with the BusLab kit:
https://www.belmetric.com/oetiker-167-stepless-ear...-3552.html


Amazon has the Gates Barricade J30R14 rated at 225psi:
https://www.amazon.com/Gates-27348-Barricade-Fuel-...amp;sr=1-1