Oil Change After Initial Break In

[carguytroy]

Engine is in the Ghia and I’ve ran it for 15-20 minutes to break in the cam. Also ran the engine 4-5 times setting timing, carbs, ran around the block etc. Should I change out the oil now or leave it and run it for a while?

[jeffrey8164]

You should change it, if for no other reason than to rinse out any extraneous sealant residue and see if it has metal in it.
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[vwracerdave]

Change the oil and adjust the valves. Again at 300 miles and again at 1000 miles.
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[Glenn]

Yes, you want to get all the debris from the cam break in and rings seating.

I would do it at 200/500/1000/3000.
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[UK Luke 72]

Still use a mineral 'break-in' oil though if you do change it to help the rings bed in.
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[esde]

If you run a full flow filter, I like to cut the filter that was used on break in open, just to check what was picked up.
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[Ohio Tom]

Run it one more time and get her hot before dumping the oil. You want to let it drain for a long time to try and get as much metals particles out.

Don't be alarmed to see the oil having a pearl-essence look to it.

[carguytroy]

The oil has a gasoline smell to it. Figured I would drain it tonight. Run it for minute to check and make sure the thermostat is adjusted where I want it then drain all the oil. The gas smell isn't terrible strong but you can definitely smell fuel. It doesn't seem to have any pearl look to it. I used that Royal Purple break in oil. Looks black with a slight purple tint to it.

[carguytroy]

Should I put break in oil back in it or just run the oil I plan to use normally? I am planning on using Valvoline VR1 10-30 with the higher zinc content for its regular diet, but not sure if that should go in now or after the next oil change.

[txoval]

If you have breakin oil use it, but if not the VR-1 is good

[mark tucker]

you should of changed it befor the run around the block witch may of bypassed the filter sending all that breakin debris to the bearings.

[Matthew]

[carguytroy]

[carguytroy]

[carguytroy]

[mark tucker]

the oil filters have a rubber/silycone flapper & some have spring too in them for a bypass valve...all it take is a little presure differential between the incomming and out going oil. it dont take a lot to bypass that especialy when the filter is already cloged with 1 cam lube that clogs filters,2 the debris that comes off the rings/cylinders,lifters,lobes.and any thing else thats "breaking in"(pushrod tips,rocker tips&adjusters, gears). thats a lot of fine abrasive..and a filter thats already over whelmed with cam lube creating a restriction..thus opening the bypass valve and sending that shit to the bearings....go figure there is a reason for doing a few oil/filter changes in the first week!! and why more than 1?? because that cam lube will take quite some time to all get out as it slings off and sticks and settels..and comes up when it wants to and gets cought in the filter.thus do a filter/oil change at the 35-40 min mark, and run some more so not so much settels in the sump. or...why bother changing it at all.it's still slipery.