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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2021 12:51 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
NorCalWeekender wrote:
So I feel like I should know the answer to this, but I need to replace my starter soon and can't tell which is correct for a 71. Is it the same Bosch 15N that basically all the 12V upright engines use?

Yes, bus starters don't get weird until 76.


Duly noted if I ever buy a birth year bus. Thank you, sir!
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chift
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PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2021 12:26 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hey Guys,

I'm really really stuck on removing this drive flange oil seal...It's gotten bad, the flange tool goes through the seal itself, the screw method doesn't work either. It doesnt seem to want to let go of the side at all, it hasn't budged.... suggestions? I'm all out of them


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It's now worse then this picture.

I've read all the threads on here that I could find.This one seems to have the most information, but there's nothing I haven't tried yet

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249639
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2021 12:30 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

With a ~1/4" diameter flat nosed punch hammer in on the seal right at the outer edge, either work your way around and collapse it inwards, or get enough of a gap started to get under and pry.
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chift
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PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2021 12:39 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks busdaddy, let me give that a try
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germansupplyscott
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PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2021 3:23 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I use a home-made tool which is a small open-ended wrench welded to a piece of flat bar. Ugly but effective. The leverage that you get from the length of the tool is key to it working, tool is about 3 feet long. It's not that you need so much purchase but the mechanical advantage of the long tool allows you a lot of control in prying. The end of the wrench has been ground down so it's quite thin and can sneak under the seal. Careful not to mar the bore where the seal sits.

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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RocketA
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 20, 2021 7:10 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Early bay here…..

I finally found a driver’s side heater box to replace my gashed up and holey one and the nice weather seems like a great time to do the swap.

Am I going to need to pull the rear bumper and valence to do this right and easy or can I just pull my current box and loosen up the same side of the exhaust?
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DocNexil
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 11:04 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

RocketA wrote:
Early bay here…..

I finally found a driver’s side heater box to replace my gashed up and holey one and the nice weather seems like a great time to do the swap.

Am I going to need to pull the rear bumper and valence to do this right and easy or can I just pull my current box and loosen up the same side of the exhaust?


I'm not really experienced enough to give you a good answer, but I was under my bus last night and it looks possible to me. I have however taken the bumper and apron off many, many times and I would suggest doing it too. It's only a handful of bolts, 5 minutes tops. Very Happy

I've got a few stupid questions now...
Which way are the washers for CV bolts supposed to face?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


One more thing, are these support(?) pieces under the westy folding bed supposed to sit back another inch or more so that they sit on the bench piece better?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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elbulli
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 3:50 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Late Bay with hydro lifters, did an oil change a few weeks back. I can't get to prime them by driving, they might have trapped air. I want to try to remove them and then prime them by hand.

Can I remove the lifters without an oil change? In other words, are they above the oil level on the sump and can I extract them without spilling large quantities of oil?

Thanks.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 4:22 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

DocNexil wrote:
RocketA wrote:
Early bay here…..

I finally found a driver’s side heater box to replace my gashed up and holey one and the nice weather seems like a great time to do the swap.

Am I going to need to pull the rear bumper and valence to do this right and easy or can I just pull my current box and loosen up the same side of the exhaust?


I'm not really experienced enough to give you a good answer, but I was under my bus last night and it looks possible to me. I have however taken the bumper and apron off many, many times and I would suggest doing it too. It's only a handful of bolts, 5 minutes tops. Very Happy

I've got a few stupid questions now...
Which way are the washers for CV bolts supposed to face?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


One more thing, are these support(?) pieces under the westy folding bed supposed to sit back another inch or more so that they sit on the bench piece better?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Cupped side away from head (upper pic), are those new?, because they are sort of a one time use deal.

And yes the notch should sit on the edge of the seat box, make sure all the screws that hole the hinges to the seat are tight to start with.
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Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Last edited by busdaddy on Sat Jun 26, 2021 7:17 am; edited 1 time in total
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 4:25 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

elbulli wrote:
Late Bay with hydro lifters, did an oil change a few weeks back. I can't get to prime them by driving, they might have trapped air. I want to try to remove them and then prime them by hand.

Can I remove the lifters without an oil change? In other words, are they above the oil level on the sump and can I extract them without spilling large quantities of oil?

Thanks.

Yes, they are above the oil level, don't mix them up, they have to go back in the same holes.

What weight of oil are you running?, hydros prefer 10w-30 or even 5w-30, the oil cooler prefers it too.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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elbulli
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 4:58 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thank you, will do.

I've been running 15W-40, mostly because it was what the PO was using and I'm not an expert.I'll take note of 10W-30 or 5W-30 for the next oil change.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 5:02 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

elbulli wrote:
Late Bay with hydro lifters, did an oil change a few weeks back. I can't get to prime them by driving, they might have trapped air. I want to try to remove them and then prime them by hand.

Can I remove the lifters without an oil change? In other words, are they above the oil level on the sump and can I extract them without spilling large quantities of oil?

Thanks.


On top of what BD said, you could try adding Marvel Mystery Oil to your crankcase and see if that will help. Also in the long run synthetic oils keep your engine cleaner inside so there is less crud in the oil that might foul the lifters.
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DocNexil
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 7:23 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:

Cupped side towards head (lower pic), are those new?, because they are sort of a one time use deal.

And yes the notch should sit on the edge of the seat box, make sure all the screws that hole the hinges to the seat are tight to start with.


Yes, they are new, and thank you very much!
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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2021 5:46 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
And yes the notch should sit on the edge of the seat box, make sure all the screws that hole the hinges to the seat are tight to start with.


Yeah, I find that I have to grab the top of my underbed cabinet and give the bed a little shove to get those brackets seated correctly.
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chift
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2021 11:34 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Bumper bolts... On the passenger side, I'm struggled to get the bolt off ( used penetrating oil / heat) but tore off both heads of the bolts. Interestingly the other side I had no issues.

Anyway. One the nut completely came off and the other one I tried to drill the bolt out (using a left handed bit and an extractor) but nothing is moving. What should be my next step? Debating a larger bit and a tap/heli coil, but that still leaves me with only one bolt (since the other nut came off).

I know nothing of welding, but is there a replacement plate I can get someone to weld in or do the heli coil and live with one bolt?


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chift
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2021 11:36 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
elbulli wrote:
Late Bay with hydro lifters, did an oil change a few weeks back. I can't get to prime them by driving, they might have trapped air. I want to try to remove them and then prime them by hand.

Can I remove the lifters without an oil change? In other words, are they above the oil level on the sump and can I extract them without spilling large quantities of oil?

Thanks.

Yes, they are above the oil level, don't mix them up, they have to go back in the same holes.

What weight of oil are you running?, hydros prefer 10w-30 or even 5w-30, the oil cooler prefers it too.



Oh man,I did a ton of research and ended up on 20W-50 (I was, and still am a complete noob). I may switch based on this recommendation, do you suggest synthetic or regular?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2021 1:25 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

chift wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
elbulli wrote:
Late Bay with hydro lifters, did an oil change a few weeks back. I can't get to prime them by driving, they might have trapped air. I want to try to remove them and then prime them by hand.

Can I remove the lifters without an oil change? In other words, are they above the oil level on the sump and can I extract them without spilling large quantities of oil?

Thanks.

Yes, they are above the oil level, don't mix them up, they have to go back in the same holes.

What weight of oil are you running?, hydros prefer 10w-30 or even 5w-30, the oil cooler prefers it too.



Oh man,I did a ton of research and ended up on 20W-50 (I was, and still am a complete noob). I may switch based on this recommendation, do you suggest synthetic or regular?

You decide, with the scarcity and prices of good engine rebuild parts lately the few extra bucks may be money well spent. Brand and additives are also something to consider with our flat tappet engines. Here's a giant can of worms in case you get hungry: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=220755 Razz

20W-50 was recommended for many years by various people, but it seems none of them understood how thick oil bypasses the cooler and actually makes the engine run hotter, it also delays lifter filling. It's a bit like that "close your eyes and fall backwards, I'll catch you" deal, it seems odd to go thinner, but it works.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2021 1:29 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

chift wrote:
Bumper bolts... On the passenger side, I'm struggled to get the bolt off ( used penetrating oil / heat) but tore off both heads of the bolts. Interestingly the other side I had no issues.

Anyway. One the nut completely came off and the other one I tried to drill the bolt out (using a left handed bit and an extractor) but nothing is moving. What should be my next step? Debating a larger bit and a tap/heli coil, but that still leaves me with only one bolt (since the other nut came off).

I know nothing of welding, but is there a replacement plate I can get someone to weld in or do the heli coil and live with one bolt?

Tap that hole that's still there for the next size up bolt, as for the one where the nut broke off inside?, this may help: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=216955&highlight=bumper+bolts
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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chift
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2021 3:18 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
chift wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
elbulli wrote:
Late Bay with hydro lifters, did an oil change a few weeks back. I can't get to prime them by driving, they might have trapped air. I want to try to remove them and then prime them by hand.

Can I remove the lifters without an oil change? In other words, are they above the oil level on the sump and can I extract them without spilling large quantities of oil?

Thanks.

Yes, they are above the oil level, don't mix them up, they have to go back in the same holes.

What weight of oil are you running?, hydros prefer 10w-30 or even 5w-30, the oil cooler prefers it too.



Oh man,I did a ton of research and ended up on 20W-50 (I was, and still am a complete noob). I may switch based on this recommendation, do you suggest synthetic or regular?

You decide, with the scarcity and prices of good engine rebuild parts lately the few extra bucks may be money well spent. Brand and additives are also something to consider with our flat tappet engines. Here's a giant can of worms in case you get hungry: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=220755 Razz

20W-50 was recommended for many years by various people, but it seems none of them understood how thick oil bypasses the cooler and actually makes the engine run hotter, it also delays lifter filling. It's a bit like that "close your eyes and fall backwards, I'll catch you" deal, it seems odd to go thinner, but it works.



230 pages? I'll take your word for it Smile I need to do an oil change after I put the motor back into the bus... 10w-30 synthetic it is!
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germansupplyscott
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2021 7:55 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:

Cupped side towards head (lower pic)


Are you sure? I don't think that is correct.

They go this way:

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