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1982 Fridge Heater Relay location?
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2021 11:49 am    Post subject: Re: 1982 Fridge Heater Relay location? Reply with quote

I got that you alternate between the 2. We can run our fridge 24/7, cook dinner and make coffee for 3 weeks off a propane fill. The 12 volt circuit is a power hog. If we happen to be somewhere with a hook up, I will run the fridge on 110 and charge both batteries.

Seems if you want the 12 volt fridge, solar, lithium, dc chargers etc, a compressor fridge would be a better choice. Save the propane for cooking.
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crazyvwvanman
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2021 12:54 pm    Post subject: Re: 1982 Fridge Heater Relay location? Reply with quote

When I measured one years ago the stock fridge fan used about 0.1 amp so it isn't much concern. At that rate the fan could run 10 hours a day and only use 1ah and it probably wouldn't run even that much very often.

With the low cost of usb charger sockets that have a voltmeter built in it is a good idea to install one powered by each battery so you can keep an eye on both battery levels while camped. Another option is a dual voltmeter unit that would let you watch and compare both batteries at a glance but without the usb ports.

When I described cutting the power wire to the led panel I said to put a male spade on one and a female on the other end so someone could easily restore to stock by simply plugging those together if desired.

Mark

sphet wrote:
.......
I think Neil's suggestion is probably the way forward and I will hope the fridge fan's draw (which comes on for long periods when we camp in warm weather) doesn't draw too many amps.
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2021 1:31 pm    Post subject: Re: 1982 Fridge Heater Relay location? Reply with quote

sphere wrote:
Argh! I am appreciative of all the input but a bit paralyzed by decision making here. I would like to molest the wiring as little as possible.


It sounds like you have a good start point that will accommodate future upgrades.

Since aux. Lithium batteries appear to cost more per AH than, say, an SLA deep cycle, if it helps ensure longer battery life, the DC-DC charger vs alternator seems to make sense.

crazyvwvanman: thanks for the "easily restore to stock by simply plugging those together " explanation

Neil.
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