Turbo 1915cc

[RH17]

I need a little advice as to what cam and rocker combo is best for my build. I am building a 1915cc with a T3 drawthrough turbo setup. I want it to be a reliable dailyable car with a good amount of power between 150-200 hp with low end torque.
Here is the build contents:
044 Panchito 40x35.5 heads 94mm bore
scat c/w 69mm forged crank
custom turbo header
T3 turbocharger
40 DCOE Weber side draft carb
8:1 CR
H beam scat connecting rods stock length
electric rotary fuel pump
CB full flow oil system
94mm Hypereutectic AA P&C's
009 Distributor
Late model Dual relief engine case

I just need some advice on if 1.25 or 1.4 or 1.1 rockers and what cam, I am think like a w110 or something I just need a little bit of a nudge in the right direction.

[c77owen]

I am about to do a somewhat similar build for a customer (2054 instead of 1915 and Holley 4412 carb instead of DCOE). I would drop that compression down a little more, like 7.25:1. I am going to use the TCS10 cam from Engle which is a mix of the W100 and W110. I would set the distributor to have quite a bit of initial advance (since the fuel source is so far away from the combustion chamber), like about 18 degrees and have no more than about 24 degrees total. You could even just lock the distributor out at 24 degrees if you wanted to. I would consider a water/meth injection system from Snow Performance as well just to help keep temps in line under boost and a longer life overall

[txoval]

I'd go with thick wall 92's for turbo build and agree on the tcs-10 cam

[c77owen]

I also just noted that you listed AA Hypereutectic pistons. Not a choice I would make. Although they handle some abuse, in a boosted application, I would look towards forged. Hone the cylinders for proper piston to wall clearance and gap the rings based on the amount of boost you are going to run. I like .018 -.020 on the top and .020 - .022 on the second depending on boost level. IF you are dead set on running those AA's then I absolutely would run the water/meth injection and keep boost levels around 8lbs

[RH17]

[c77owen]

[earthquake]

I think I would use a 45mm DCOE, I don't think the 40 will be big enough.

eQ
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74 CLASS 11 LOOK-A-LIKE
69 DUNE BUGGY
79 INTERNATIONAL SCOUT II
05 SCION XB SERIES RELEASE 2[#437]
95 Chevy C3500 dually
98 Ford E150
Link to Kelly J. Nolte 3/20/53 - 11/6/08
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DEATH TO CHINGERS!
[From a military recruitment poster in the novel "The Stainless Steel Rat" By Harry Harrison]

[txoval]

CB Performance 1.1 rockers are probably the best out there. Nice rockers and grooved shafts.

[Dauz]

[Alstrup]

[RH17]

Is there anything I can cut costs on, like things that I have in my list that are kind of overkill for a street motor? Things that are excess that aren't necessary. I am under my budget but if I could cut costs more that would be awesome.

[c77owen]

Cutting costs and Turbo VW engine do not go together

[buguy]

I don't think you need forged pistons at that boost level.

[RH17]

Has anyone seen someone build a turbo setup with Hyper. pistons?

[RH17]

[Chip]

[buguy]

I ran 30+ psi on AA pistons. But that was with EFI, water to air intercooler, and E85 for a bout a year and a half before i built a bigger engine. I ran stock pistons for almost 10 years on a draw through at 12-15 psi. I have AA pistons in my 2054 turbo now but i only have about 15 miles on it so nothing to report yet.

[clonebug]

Detonation kills pistons.....I have a shelf of them to prove it.
The AA P/C's can handle boost no problem but not detonation.....the issue is the learning curve where you are trying to get your tune figured out.
Detonation at 8-13 lbs is a different animal than detonation at 25 lbs....at least in my experience.
While on boost keep your fuel at 12.0:1 or richer......your IAT's under 130*F and your ignition advance low enough to not ping. It's a fine line and gets finer the higher you go with boost levels.

There is a learning curve involved.........

I found that stock parts give the biggest bang for the buck. Every performance add on I've done has not given a return on the Hp/$$ ratio like a turbo on stock parts.
Heads, ratio rockers, different intakes.......nothing has given a hp increase that a few lbs. of boost can't beat.

I ran a W-100 cam for 43,000 miles with a bunch of combos of rockers and springs, the last 3600 miles were with 1.4 rockers even though the cam does not support them. It worked fine and the cam and lifters are in perfect shape even now. I even ran all those combos with single springs.

I am now running a FK-42 with the 1.4 rockers and single springs and it seems to be working fine. I haven't wrung it out yet due to a long trip to Cali coming up but I feel good enough about it to take it to the Big Bear meet again at 1300 miles one way.

I'm not up on draw through but the one advantage it does seem to have is the cooling effect of the fuel through the carb's venturi. You don't get that with a blow through.
That said I wouldn't trade for a draw through though.
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[madmike]

Get thick wall 92
here is why, 2nd time this happened 1st was a 1915cc w/40doce
now my 2276 with a 680 Quick fuel(holley)

92T compared to a 94mm

this was on the 1915cc
totally my fault I drive the $hit out of them
anyone have a set of 92 Thick wall B's 94x94????? LKM asap please!
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'Black Ice'Drag Buggy 'Turbo'
Rail Buggy 1915 turbo
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"If I'm ever on Life Support,UNPLUG Me, Then Plug me back In see if that Works"

[oprn]

I see one glaring "under spending" item. Dump that 009 and go with a REAL programable ignition system! Ignition tuning is in my view one of the two most critical things on a turbo engine. The Weber has the other one covered. Pistons, cams, heads, rocker ratios all pale in comparison to the importance of good ignition timing!

You can have all the latest and best engine parts available but if your ignition is not right it will be reduced to junk just as quick as the cheapest parts.
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