2.1 MV rebuild

[90weekender]

Further inspection:

Pulled #4 exhaust push rod tube and the lifter.

Lifter was full of oil...un-compressible, but damaged around the perimeter:

Push rod tube was cracked from the impact of the misaligned push rod:

I believe the lifters leaked and so I could set the adjuster screws with any sufficient or sustainable force to keep the push rods from falling out of the lifter seat.

I will re-assemble as follows:

Bleed lifters
Install adjustable push rod tubes
Install push rods
Install rockers
Adjust rocker screws so push rods are just seated for each cylinder at TDC
Screw adjusters in 1 full turn and lock in place.

[90weekender]

[jberger]

[DanHoug]

here's a decent article on leak down testing.. testers run anywhere from $35 to around $200 for a made-in-USA one.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/cylinder-leakdown-tester/

couple additional points from the article. there is a very small bleed orifice between the two gauges. there is no standard for the diameter of this orifice so each gauge can measure differently from different manufacturers. so absolute numbers aren't that important but you will see trends and they'll help pinpoint engine compression issues without disassembly.

it's a handy tool when there's a question of burned/bent valves, worn rings, even gasket issues.

glad to hear the engine was rotated thru before starting.. you likely haven't bent valves and probably don't need to leak down test but it's a good baseline on an engine build as the miles pile up.
_________________
-dan
60% of what you find on the internet is wrong, including this post.

'87 Westy & '89 Westy both 2.1 4spd

Past projects can be found at--
www.thefixitworkshop.com

[90weekender]

Hey Dan,

Thanks for the article and explanation. Looks very useful...hopefully I'll never need to do it. We'll see...!

[90weekender]

Jberger,

"Properly seated pushrods will not fall out on their own accord.. even without preload."

That definitely reduces the variables of what might have gone wrong.


"My guess is that the rods were not set correctly upon startup and they bent."

If you have a method that is reliable...without removing the engine....please share it.

I'll bet the other Noobs like me would greatly appreciate it too.

[DanHoug]

looking at the photos again... the chip on the inside lip of the lifter, indicating side pressure from the rod, along with the cracked tube tells me this was likely pressure damage from lifting or setting it down on the tubes.

i don't see a path where a rod can exert that kind of pressure at that angle to tear stainless steel without an external push. with the other tubes, since there is a large amount of flexibility in the silicone seals, a damage event could be hid by the tube and seal springing back after it had gone far enough to bend the pushrod.

it would also explain why you had such a racket on immediate startup after being meticulous in setting the valve clearance baseline.
_________________
-dan
60% of what you find on the internet is wrong, including this post.

'87 Westy & '89 Westy both 2.1 4spd

Past projects can be found at--
www.thefixitworkshop.com

[90weekender]

Saturday I replaced the bent pushrods, damaged lifters, installed all new adjustable push rod tubes and turned it over with fuel and spark disconnected.

Here are the drivers side new rockers and pushrods from MansiSpeed. I found that every pushrod that bent, also had a bent adjuster screw. They had to be cut off the rocker arm and replaced with new ones.

After adjusting the rocker screws, I took a picture like this for every push rod with my iPhone and a pen light to ensure the rods were seated in the lifters. They all look like this.

The JayCee adjustable push rod tubes below required a lot of force to compress into place. You have to compress them once to get them onto the back of the head, then a couple more times to get them to the hole. I had to use a flat nylon “crow bar” made for removing auto upholstered door panels, to get it onto the black of the head. Then when in place the seals are typically not seated correctly and need a 13mm long socket applied from the outside a couple times while you ensure the seal gets seated correctly. Once installed they look great and the MansiSpeed 1.35 ratio rocker push rods do not interfered. Which I was concerned about.

Here’s my wife cranking the engine to listen for interference…or carnage of any kind: no fuel or spark hooked up.


Link


Installed the push rod tube shields so we can get out and drive it.

[90weekender]

Sunday we hooked up the spark and fuel to start it up. I edited that out the first minute because it was kind of a lumpy idle. This clip is after it settled into a fairly smooth idle. You can still hear a couple dry lifters.


Link

[90weekender]

So mechanically the engine is running as new, but:

the fuel injection system is running very rich (hot and cold)
very little low end torque
Very low power that gets worse over time as the plugs get wetter.

I've pulled all 4 spark plugs and all 4 looked like this:

Hall sender has cracked wires:

Temp sender has cracked wires:

Plan B is to purchase this EPROM emulator and android app to diagnose electrical issues. And it has some other features that could be nice to have:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=754465&highlight=digifant

[crazyvwvanman]

If you follow those 3 hall wires back away from the distributor you should soon find a 4th wire in the same bundle, a brown one.
That 4th wire needs a ring terminal end and then it gets screwed down to ENGINE metal.
Make sure that connection is clean and tight.

Depending on the version of your Digifant harness that 4th wire may be brown with a strip instead of plain brown.

Mark

[90weekender]

crazyvwvanman

Thanks for the tip Mark. My 4th wire is brown and well secured to the drivers side head.

I'm currently searching for wire harness sections from vendors. Brickwreks in the UK has tomes of parts, but no complete harness sections available.

[90weekender]

Listing harness suppliers: Please share if you know another good one

http://kyleautomotivespecialties.com/vanagon-868[/url]

https://www.vanagain.com/shop/wiring-harness-for-engine-compartment-86-92-vanagon[url]

https://www.vancafe.com/ASY-9980101-p/asy-9980101.htm?CartID=2[url]

https://www.vancafe.com/VC8691HALLSPLUG-p/vc8691hallsplug.htm?CartID=1[url]

https://www.vanagain.com/shop/oxygen-sensor-wiring-repair-kit-1

[T3 Pilot]

Reach out to this guy in Ohio and see what he can do for you:

http://kyleautomotivespecialties.com/digi-fant-fuel-injection-harness-for-vanagon/

Also individual terminals connectors and boots available here:

https://eagleday.stores.yahoo.net/ampconnectors.html

You can test all of the digifant electrical components and wiring using a multimeter by testing at the ecu connector. That way you can confirm function of each component and the wiring integrity.
_________________
1988 Vanagon

The most important part in every vehicle is the nut behind the wheel......

[T3 Pilot]

See, I go to the fridge while replying and you are already halfway there…

Items like the Hall sender connector pigtail are a good quick way to get the job done. Its been a while, but i can recall picking up pigtails for fuel injectors at a VW dealership for a normal price. Take your T2 sensor with you and hand it to the parts guy.
_________________
1988 Vanagon

The most important part in every vehicle is the nut behind the wheel......

[90weekender]

Does anyone know whats going on with this temp sensor wiring? Looks non-stock

[markswagen]

Thats the GW, thingamajigger for correcting the coolant temp needle, l like to fit then inside the black box, near the thermostat housing

[90weekender]

markswagen

Any idea why this kluge is needed? I'd get rid of it if I can.

Happy 4th!

[felixbobcat]

The picture of your plug looks like it is running lean. Check for vacuum leaks.

[felixbobcat]

Also, how did you break in the motor? I used break in oil, after first start ran it for five minutes at 2000 RPM. Let it cool then ran it for twenty minutes at 2000 RPM. I then took it out on the road and did five sessions each of alternately driving at 30 and 50 MPH. That is the break in procedure I got from Rocky Jennings.

Check your compression also. I’m wondering if your rings have not set.