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Electric choke questions (30pict-1)
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crankbait09
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2021 9:28 am    Post subject: Electric choke questions (30pict-1) Reply with quote

This may open a whole new can of worms, but I have a couple questions in regards to the electric choke assembly on a 30pict-1 carb, 12v.

The last time i posted a thread, I was having issues with my bug stalling once i took my foot of the gas pedal, in mid drive. I have removed the carb, cleaned, and reassembled. Adjusted the idle screws, and took it out for the day. Oh the feeling when the car remains running at a stop, and also when the foot is off the pedal. that was wonderful!

Anyways, now the issues Smile

When I placed the carb back on and was fine tuning the idle, I was getting a little bog down when pumping the gas. I was able to narrow that down to the electric choke needing tweaked a tad. Got that to the point where it was standing vertically when engine was warm, and almost closed when cold. All good there. I did not get the bog down after adjusting, nor when I drove it.

When I bought this car 3 years ago, the electric choke has always been very hard to turn once inserted into the carb. Even when I take off the retaining ring, and all the screws, I can't get it to turn without using a pair of pliers. It doesn't take much to turn it, but I can't do it by hand. Since it doesn't ever need tweaking once tuned and in place, I haven't had to mess with it a lot. My question for this is, what can be done to make it move easier? I was going to buy a new choke element, but I feel the one I have is working properly, minus the ease of adjustment.

the retaining ring was bent when I bought it. I can only assume cause 1 of the 3 plastic bushings were missing. So the third screw was over tightened to make up for not having that spacer. I was doing a search online for the ring and bushings but came up empty (was gonna replace). I might be able to bend the ring back so that it's straight, but I'd still need the bushings. Just had a brainy idea - ace hardware - they might carry small plastic spacers that will fit.

Back to the idle. As I mentioned, the car was idling great and it never installed. It still felt off. I'm thinking the idle is still too high. After a 35-40 minute drive, I notice the gas pedal was a little stiff at times. Almost like it was telling me the car was running hot. Once I got home, I put my hand on the oil dip stick, and ya, too hot. I couldn't even touch it for more than a second. Normally, prior to all this adjusting of the carb, I used to be able to hold the dip stick for a good amount of time. I think the high idle constantly is causing the heat build up. Is that a fair statement? I was going to lower it a tad and see what happens. Could the excessive heat be linked back to the electric choke adjustment?

something needs tweaked, but I'm not sure what. I am going to test the idle rpm's tonight or tomorrow and see where they're at.
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2021 11:43 am    Post subject: Re: Electric choke questions (30pict-1) Reply with quote

Get your pedal and cable assemblies burr-free, lubed, with all slop removed, before you try too hard to get a smooth, style idle.
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crankbait09
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 26, 2021 3:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Electric choke questions (30pict-1) Reply with quote

I'd like to revisit this.....

I'm gonna ask this. If the car is running hot (temps are 90 degrees outside), is there anything in the carb that could possible now allow things to move as they should? (electric choke, throttle arm, etc) anything at all?

I am not sold that the accelerator cable might possibly have burs or anything holding it up from working as it should. I don't feel the "catching on something" issue. It feels like it could be something on the carb side of it. I released the throttle cable, and reset it into place. But when the car got hot during the 30 minute drive on the freeway, it felt as if I had to push the gas pedal a little harder. WHen I came to a red light, I would rev up the engine a few times, and it would rev, and act as it should. I don't know, something isn't right but I'm not sure what it could be. Are there grease / oil points on a carb that I should re-lube? I have never placed grease / oil on any of the mechanical parts of it.

After watching some videos on replacing the accelerator cable, I assume that the tube that it slides through, goes all the way to the back of the car, before it enters the fan shroud, right? It looks like I should be able to pull it all the way out at the pedal, and re-insert the new one right back in at the pedal and push it to the rear. THat's if this "tube" isn't rusted / broke. right?

and how do you determine when it's time to replace a carb with a new one?

I did get the idle worked out and it certainly not reving as high.
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 26, 2021 4:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Electric choke questions (30pict-1) Reply with quote

crankbait09 wrote:
After watching some videos on replacing the accelerator cable, I assume that the tube that it slides through, goes all the way to the back of the car, before it enters the fan shroud, right? It looks like I should be able to pull it all the way out at the pedal, and re-insert the new one right back in at the pedal and push it to the rear.

Yeah, but you may need to go underneath and pull the accelerator "bowden" off (at its rear end) the steel tube that runs through the fan shroud, and feed that through by hand, and then reconnect that "bowden".
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2021 4:26 am    Post subject: Re: Electric choke questions (30pict-1) Reply with quote

There is no bowden tube on the early models. the cable is exposed between the back of the frame where it exits and the fan shroud. You shouldn't have any trouble changing. After jack stands take off left rear tire. Pull out the cable through the interior and work the new one back through.
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