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chichilengua
Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2008
Posts: 186
Location: South Side, Chicago
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 Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 1:36 pm Post subject: How to replace manifold rubber boot |
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| How do you replace the manifold boot does anybody know how to thanks guys, with out taking the manifold off thanks again guys... |
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Glenn 
Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001
Posts: 76939
Location: Sneaking up behind you
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| Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 1:44 pm Post subject: |
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I remember someone saying they make split boots, but i've never seen them.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"
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BUGSTUFF
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Joined: October 20, 2004
Posts: 526
Location: Bartlett, IL
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 31379
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 2:10 pm Post subject: |
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I've never tried those split boots (I've got an aftermarket manifold with one boot) but admit I would try one if I had that situation, would save a lot of work, if it was OK. Maybe people here can post their hands-on experience with them.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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mnussbau
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Joined: August 26, 2006
Posts: 4589
Location: Central Maryland
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| Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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I just did this last weekend using the stock-style boots. To use this style of boot you don't have to completely remove the manifold but you do have to loosen it. It's not hard but takes a fair amount of time.
- remove hoses from fan and air cleaner to breast plate
- remove heat riser insulation covers
- remove breast plate
- remove four heat riser bolts from muffler (sometimes the bolts on the one hot side will be rusty, use PB Blaster. my left side's were rusted)
- remove nuts on left side intake manifold casting
- remove nut at center bottom of intake manifold center section
- loosen the four band clamps holding on the rubber boots
- slip rubber boots off the castings, toward the center. use a large screwdriver to coax them free if necessary
- remove left intake manifold casting. you might have to jiggle it
- slide center section an inch or so to the left to clear the right manifold casting
- remove old rubber boots
- install new boots, don't forget the band clamps!
As they say, installation is the reverse. You should use a new metal gasket under the manifold casting and if necessary, new gaskets between the muffler and heat risers. In retrospect it might have been worth it to try the split style, but I've heard they are tougher to make a good seal.
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Sold my sedan
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DrDarby
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Joined: May 12, 2004
Posts: 6534
Location: Northern Illinois
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| Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 6:09 pm Post subject: |
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That is correct but I'll add it is a lot easier to just cut the old boots off 1st than fight them up the manifold.
If I was stranded on the side of the road, I'd use a split boot to get me home. After that I'd fix it right., that's about how good they are, duct tape would probably get you home too and last about as long.
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Mudpump
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Joined: May 11, 2007
Posts: 750
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| Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 3:30 pm Post subject: |
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| mnussbau wrote: |
I just did this last weekend using the stock-style boots. To use this style of boot you don't have to completely remove the manifold but you do have to loosen it. It's not hard but takes a fair amount of time.
- remove hoses from fan and air cleaner to breast plate
- remove heat riser insulation covers
- remove breast plate
- remove four heat riser bolts from muffler (sometimes the bolts on the one hot side will be rusty, use PB Blaster. my left side's were rusted)
- remove nuts on left side intake manifold casting
- remove nut at center bottom of intake manifold center section
- loosen the four band clamps holding on the rubber boots
- slip rubber boots off the castings, toward the center. use a large screwdriver to coax them free if necessary
- remove left intake manifold casting. you might have to jiggle it
- slide center section an inch or so to the left to clear the right manifold casting
- remove old rubber boots
- install new boots, don't forget the band clamps!
As they say, installation is the reverse. You should use a new metal gasket under the manifold casting and if necessary, new gaskets between the muffler and heat risers. In retrospect it might have been worth it to try the split style, but I've heard they are tougher to make a good seal. |
Ok rookie engine guy here......be gentle 
I'm finally getting around to replacing my ripped boots (patched with aluminum tape). I'm stuck here. I have everything disconnected except the left side manifold casting. Where are the nuts and how do you get to them to remove it??
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mnussbau
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Joined: August 26, 2006
Posts: 4589
Location: Central Maryland
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| Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:42 pm Post subject: |
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The nuts are located on either end of the casting, one front and one back. The back one you should be able to see, the front one is tougher. You may be able to see it if you stand up and look between the top of the deck lid and the rear glass. Regardless, you'll want a 13mm universal socket plus at least 12" of extensions on your socket wrench. When reinstalling the casting, use a new gasket under it and torque the nuts to 14 ft lb.
Like this:
You can see where the nut would be on this image. The other one is on the other side...
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Mike
Sold my sedan
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Joey
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Joined: August 12, 2005
Posts: 5366
Location: Nova Scotia - Canada
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| Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:59 pm Post subject: |
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I had the split type on my 1600DP in my '56 when I first got it and they worked fine. The split had kind of a puzzle piece connection. I sprayed carb cleaner around them from time to time and they never showed any sign of leaks. I did replace them with the original type when I rebuilt the engine a year later. I kept them just in case of a road side emergency.
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Joey
‘60 Kombi - '74 Bus - '79 Panel - '65 Beetle |
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Mudpump
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Joined: May 11, 2007
Posts: 750
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| Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 6:23 pm Post subject: |
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THANKS!-found them hiding behind the spark plug wires 
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gleason
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Joined: May 27, 2003
Posts: 274
Location: Wisconsin
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| Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 5:45 pm Post subject: |
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| Well, I know its an old topic, but it gave me the info I needed to get mine replace. Even with my fat fingers and a belly full of TGiving dinner, It only took about 1/2 hour to put a pair in. Took off the aircleaner, and a couple heater hoses and it was a snap. |
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farmersemail
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Joined: June 19, 2012
Posts: 6
Location: flagstaff
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| Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 6:40 pm Post subject: did you use the split ones? |
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| gleason wrote: |
| Well, I know its an old topic, but it gave me the info I needed to get mine replace. Even with my fat fingers and a belly full of TGiving dinner, It only took about 1/2 hour to put a pair in. Took off the aircleaner, and a couple heater hoses and it was a snap. |
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gleason
Samba Member
Joined: May 27, 2003
Posts: 274
Location: Wisconsin
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| Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 7:09 pm Post subject: |
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| BTW, I used the split ones. |
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abarefootpoet
Samba Member
Joined: April 17, 2016
Posts: 1
Location: Chattanooga TN USA
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| Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2016 8:23 am Post subject: |
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| gleason wrote: |
| BTW, I used the split ones. |
I bought a '71 super beetle in California, put all our stuff from a 26' Winnebago and drove back to Chattanooga. Everything worked great on the trip. But after being back a few weeks my car started dying at stops, high pitch whisking sound, etc. Yesterday while performing some tune up tasks I noticed the left boot cracked.
I'm not a skilled mechanic, just know the basic stuff and am good at following YouTube videos, my question is, has anyone who used the split boot kit had good reliable results? I want something that can hold and do well for at least 6 months until I have the time and/or funds to do the job right. |
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EZ Gruv
King of Plaid
Joined: December 10, 2002
Posts: 8544
Location: Las Vegas
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| Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2016 12:11 pm Post subject: |
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| mnussbau wrote: |
I just did this last weekend using the stock-style boots. To use this style of boot you don't have to completely remove the manifold but you do have to loosen it. It's not hard but takes a fair amount of time.
- remove hoses from fan and air cleaner to breast plate
- remove heat riser insulation covers
- remove breast plate
- remove four heat riser bolts from muffler (sometimes the bolts on the one hot side will be rusty, use PB Blaster. my left side's were rusted)
- remove nuts on left side intake manifold casting
- remove nut at center bottom of intake manifold center section
- loosen the four band clamps holding on the rubber boots
- slip rubber boots off the castings, toward the center. use a large screwdriver to coax them free if necessary
- remove left intake manifold casting. you might have to jiggle it
- slide center section an inch or so to the left to clear the right manifold casting
- remove old rubber boots
- install new boots, don't forget the band clamps!
As they say, installation is the reverse. You should use a new metal gasket under the manifold casting and if necessary, new gaskets between the muffler and heat risers. In retrospect it might have been worth it to try the split style, but I've heard they are tougher to make a good seal. |
Thanks for this. Helped me greatly do this repair for the first time.
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Eric
1977 Deluxe Westfalia - 2.0L FI Type IV, Completely Original
Photographer for HotVWs, VolksWorld, AirMighty, VW Camper & Commercial, Hayburner, and more.
My Photography Page. |
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WildBillP
Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2019
Posts: 3
Location: Central Oregon
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| Posted: Sat May 23, 2020 2:33 pm Post subject: Re: How to replace manifold rubber boot |
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| My alternator died and I tore the right boot disconnecting intake. (1776 dual port w/single 40mm Weber) Ordered both sets of boots, red ones and split. Split showed up yesterday so I am in reassemble mode. Am not happy with the split boot. It looks like there is still a 1/16" or so gap in the split. I am going to finish and start it up and use carb cleaner to see if it's leaking. Will not be happy if I have to drop motor and do this again, but I want to get it back on the road. |
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Tim Donahoe
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Joined: December 08, 2012
Posts: 11740
Location: Redding, CA
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| Posted: Sat May 23, 2020 3:38 pm Post subject: Re: How to replace manifold rubber boot |
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Bill, according to the information on this thread, you don’t have pull the engine to replace the manifold bolts. Look above.
Tim
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61SNRF
Samba Member
Joined: March 29, 2009
Posts: 4657
Location: Whittier 90602
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| Posted: Sun May 24, 2020 7:03 am Post subject: Re: How to replace manifold rubber boot |
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If you're forced to use split boots try to position the clamps so the ends are drawn together when tightened. This pic shows how to do it for axle boots but same principle applies:
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An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. |
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H!
Samba Member
Joined: February 04, 2004
Posts: 71
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| Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2021 12:33 pm Post subject: |
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| mnussbau wrote: |
I just did this last weekend using the stock-style boots. To use this style of boot you don't have to completely remove the manifold but you do have to loosen it. It's not hard but takes a fair amount of time.
- remove hoses from fan and air cleaner to breast plate
- remove heat riser insulation covers
- remove breast plate
- remove four heat riser bolts from muffler (sometimes the bolts on the one hot side will be rusty, use PB Blaster. my left side's were rusted)
- remove nuts on left side intake manifold casting
- remove nut at center bottom of intake manifold center section
- loosen the four band clamps holding on the rubber boots
- slip rubber boots off the castings, toward the center. use a large screwdriver to coax them free if necessary
- remove left intake manifold casting. you might have to jiggle it
- slide center section an inch or so to the left to clear the right manifold casting
- remove old rubber boots
- install new boots, don't forget the band clamps!
As they say, installation is the reverse. You should use a new metal gasket under the manifold casting and if necessary, new gaskets between the muffler and heat risers. In retrospect it might have been worth it to try the split style, but I've heard they are tougher to make a good seal. |
This was sooooo helpful- years after it was written! Thank you.
When selecting new boots, I have three choices
Black rubber
Orange Silicone
Red urethane
Black looks better but any advice? |
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Tim Donahoe
Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2012
Posts: 11740
Location: Redding, CA
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| Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 7:39 pm Post subject: Re: How to replace manifold rubber boot |
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A few years back, I bought the black ones from Wolfsburg West. My research indicated that they were the least likely to crack. Empi red were especially apt to crack in a short time.
I’ve put about two thousand miles on the car since then, and the black WW boots are cracking. So, hopefully, someone else can come along and give you some better news about any non-Empi boots.
The thing is, these Wolfsburg West boots were supposed to be the best available, and my engine never gets too hot, so I’m a little pissed that in the near future, I’m going to have to redo the manifold boots again.
Tim
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