1800 Single port - early type 3

[Alstrup]

Yes, a 163 is way too much for this build. One of the biggest mistakes people make when building engines, and especially sgl ports are overcamming them.

If all goes well I am getting a Kadron powered 1699 cc buggy on the rolls, - with Kads, on slightly modified manifolds, milder cam, in the range of a W100 9-1, - and bazooka exhaust. This thing idles almost 100% clean and picks up really nice in spite of the crappy exhaust. I wohnt be surprised if it pulls 90 hp
If I remember I will make a little video of one of the pulls. (I typically consentrate on everything else and forget)
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993

[Clatter]

Link


Not how i might have done it,
But here's your idea..
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Clatter]

[Clatter]

ga-Bick ga-Bick ga-Bick ga-Bick...

RRDOW! RRDOW!!

ga-Bick ga-Bick ga-Bick....
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Clatter]

Kadrons and bazookas probably might sound more like two English twins, than Harleys.
Like a couple of BSAs or Nortons..

Thup-Thup! wait-wait Thup-Thup! wait-wait..

The Triumph chopper on this side sounds exactly like the one on the other side,
And idling at the exact same speed, too!

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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Jason37]

[Jason37]

So parts have been arriving at a steady pace, but before sending to the balancer a check of clearances was required.

I started out getting readings that were all above spec, knowing who did the align bore on my case I was leaning towards bad bearings. When I measured the rods I got more concerned as the were double the spec and had been built by Brian. At this point I decided to check the calibration of my bore gauge.

Notice how 1 thou on the mic moves the dial indicator 2 thou? (or close to, hard to hold steady and get pics at the same time)

So I decide to pull the head apart as I found the dial to be "notchy" and not smooth throughout its travel, kinda like it was binding.

See that little crumpled piece of shim stock, it was jammed in the head...removed, cleaned and oiled. Same results.

That is when I noticed this,

the outer scale is for .001 but the gauge movement is .0005. After buying a replacement dial indicator from a local tool supply store (that didn't fit, 3/8" shank vs the required 8mm) I finally found one on Amazon with the right shank size, albeit digital.

Some quick measurements last night, and clearances are making sense.

Also a quick shout out to Brian for putting up with my texts...thanks.

[Culito]

OOoooOOOO!
Those type 3 engines have always intrigued me. Looking forward to the type 4 build as well.

I'd strongly suggest a CB performance Black Box + vac reference kit (or equiv) to adjust your timing curves - I'm suggesting this after a huge struggle with a stock distributor + some dual IDFs on a type 4 2.0L.
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Copyright CJ Industries, Inc.
'64 standard w/2.0L type 4
'62 bug

[Jason37]

A lot has happened in the last couple of months.

Started cleaning and opening up the stock manifolds to match the ICT’s. I also matched up the phenolic spacers.

Also spent some considerable time setting the rocker geometry.

And then I fitted up both heads and carbs. Due to the space limitations of the early engine bay I have to run the LHS carb reversed. This also means I cannot use the standard hex bar linkage. I ordered up the CSP IDF linkage and installed as directed. Chatting with Brian he mentioned the angles were off and I should be checking to see if they were in sync. Tried adjusting the arms and it quickly became apparent that it would not work as intended. I then moved it towards the center and found it would work. This created another issue as the Center section would only hit one mounting bolt. Queue up the band saw and tig welder.

[Jason37]

I’m anticipation of assembling the motor I decided to build a run stand. Using an old transmission as the base I cut down the case and made some mounts that captured the cover bolts. Then I spun up a bushing in the lathe to hold the transmission to the engine stand. For the control panel I wanted the mount to secure it to the stand. I incorporated a pin mount on the panel with some additional bracing to lock it into a rib in the transmission. Next up some switches and gauges, and mounting the hand throttle.

[Alstrup]

[Brian]

T, I've heard some crazy stuff from you before but that one takes the cake
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Wash your hands

'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper

Only losers litter

[Alstrup]

You know its true. Its just a matter of designing an engine instead of building from whatever is on sale the day the money burns in your pocket.

And now back to the regular sceduled thread content
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993

[Jason37]

So a lot more progress has been made on the little 1.8l


Prior to final cleaning the pushrod seal contact area was polished with red then white scotchbrite

Then into the bath

Mocked up one final time and case torqued to check free movement and end play

Case halves liberally coated with permatex anaerobic gasket sealer.

Cylinders were prepped per instructions from Brian_E with a thorough washing, carb cleaner, wipe until the towels stay white, then a quick mist of WD-40 followed by quick seat powder (if applied correctly, the cylinder walls turn a lovely shade of green)

[Jason37]

Rings (grant cast) were gapped using a formula from Brian (.0045xbore top, .0055xbore second)

For some reason I have no pics of the top end going together. Which is shame as those beautiful heads supplied by Brian are what makes this little motor sing.

So here rockers are adjusted and the motor spun one revolution to check everything was working and no clearance issues (pushrods were removed prior to start up to get the oil flowing)

Jaycee pushrod tubes installed with copious amounts of lube on the orings and the inner tube was polished with white scotchbrite

At this point I went to work on the carbs, if you may recall I am running singleports with dual Weber 34 ICT’s. Initial jetting was loosely based on recommendations here https://www.wayoutwestie.com/aircooled-tech/running-weber-icts-on-a-vw-aircooled-engine/

I went with:
60 idles (no 55’s in stock at the time)
F6 emulsions
150 mains
170 airs
Floats to 8mm

[Jason37]

Fan shroud required a slight modification for the CB maxi 3 in/out pump

all tin was scrubbed clean, blasted and then cleaned again, dents removed and fitted with attention to gaps. (Will go out for powdercoat once I decide on a colour)

Cheeky little shot of the 010

Didn’t want oil vapor spraying all over the place so I turned up a little plug with viton oring for sealing.

[Jason37]

Oil cooler seal’s presented a bit of a problem as type 3 use the early style cooler and the universal cases late model. Luckily the brown Bentley manual had a note about green seals (thanks again to Brian for confirmation)

10mm seal doesn’t sit right

These are still ongoing, but I thought it best to match the heat exchangers to the header. A set of Vintage Speed j-tubes was sourced as well as a donor pair of early type three heat exchangers.

I first separated the halves to reveal the cast aluminum heat sync. Then made a cut through the pipe to what I was dealing with.

The long straight sections where then cut in half and the original exhaust tube removed. Using flapper wheels and 1.5” sanding drums the inside diameter was opened up to fit the new pipe

My plan to machine some aluminum collars and weld them to the heat sync to keep them from rattling inside the exchanger, but for now more fitting is need to seal them up.

[Jason37]

After confirmation of oil pressure and spark (if anyone has the proper spacer/insulator for a 010 - where the bolt exits the body, I am using a couple small orings, hit me up) between the missing insulator, and bad coil lead this took way longer than I would like to admit.

But then was able to add some fuel, and hit the start button, all the while praying it wasn’t going to grenade or lock up.

Ran motor for 20 minutes at 2000-2200 rpm, set timing and then did a quick little video, with maybe a tad to much throttle action 🥵I have reached out to some locals with engine dyno’s to see if they have the ability to hook an ACVW motor up to their machine, so I hope to have it on a dyno soon.

Tach to 11! 😜

https://youtube.com/shorts/zH4TMsb2ybE?feature=share



Motor specs

Flywheel - DPR custom 6v ring gear, 200mm clutch lightened to 15lbs
Crank CB 74mm
Cam CB2232 set up with CB pro series (2 degrees retarded)
Lifters CB cheapies
Rods CB 5.325 H beams
Pistons AA 88mm cylinders prepped with ultra fine ball hone per Brian’s instructions. Deck set at .0395
Kennedy stage 1 pp
Stock fans

All dynamically balanced.

Pushrods - stock shorted
Pushrod tubes Jaycee
Heads by Brian_E 50cc chambers, heavy singles, port and polished, 3 way valve job
Rockers CB 1.25’s supplied by Tabari
Rocker shafts - solid
Thorsten swivel feet


Final numbers are 9-1 compression with a 0.0395 deck and 50cc chamber.

Exhaust VS tubes, vintage cyclone header with glass pack.

With the exhaust hose on, the exhaust tone is muted and you can hear the gears more, but when the tube slipped off the exhaust woke up.

All of this could not have happened without some key people;

Brian_E thanks for all the assistance, parts and lengthy text conversations.
Torben, thanks for answering all my questions when we were first designing this engine, and putting me on to Brian!

[Clatter]

What a great build..!

Bet it will give you many years of faithful service,
As it sounds really nice and tight!

Gears sound great, too.
Make sure those 60 idles aren’t big enough to wash down your rings..

Did Brian end up using 37 intake valves?

You used the CB 1.25 rockers on intake and factory 1.1s on exhaust, right?
How did the lift end up on the 1.25s?
Were they over or under lift wise vs. the 1.25 they are supposed to give?

I bet you have one of those combos here that gives more power than you might have guessed based upon the spec.

Thanks for taking all the time to document.
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Jason37]

Just thought I would provide a little update. Motor is in and I have been enjoying the the increased power. Fourth gear hill pulls are no longer an issue, and able to surprise some Moms in their minivans. I’m sure they were trying to race…

I did have to machine out the holes in the transmission brace (using CB heavy duty mounts and an EMPI heavy duty mount, increased the height compared to the stock stuff) to fit the Ramflo air filters. Carbs and manifolds need to be removed to get the engine in, but not too much of a hassle as singleports have so much more room to work around.

Now that I know the rings are seated I will get the LM-2 hooked up and finish some fine tuning. Currently:

Jets: (3600 feet above sea level)
55 idles
145 mains
170 corrections
F6 emulsions

Ignition is via points and still 6v - timing is set at 30 total, plug wires I made from some solid copper wire and ends from the Brillman company and resistor ends ribbed from a set of wires from ISPWEST.

Short video of pulling some hills at about 100kph, and still had more on tap…but this is only a 80 zone and the police routinely patrol.

https://m.youtube.com/shorts/jGlVYcr-IIc