DuncanS Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2013 Posts: 4583 Location: New Hampshire
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Posted: Thu Jun 17, 2021 8:07 am Post subject: Re: Poptop Lift Bar Went Through Roof! |
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Here is part of the problem. These tops were made using what's called a "chopper gun" process. It feeds fiberglass strands to the nozzle just like a wire feed welder and combined with a sprayer mixes both the resin and hardener right at the nozzle. A rapidly rotating knife chops the fiberglass strands into relatively short lengths and the resulting mix is blown into a female mold. The very early Corvettes and cheap dinghies were built this way. There are several problems in what seems like a good production idea. The first depends on the skill of the sprayer. If he doesn't apply an nice even batch then there can be weak areas. More importantly, the fiberglass strands are too short to be really effective which was one of your failure problems. If a regular lay-up had been done, the strands would have been longer and might have bridged over the damaged area. But even worse, the resulting mat is resin rich. This leads to a brittle structure. The ideal fiberglass composition has just enough resin to wet out the fibers and bridge any tiny gaps between the glass and no more. The strength is in the glass, the resin just keeps them together in the right shape. Although the fiberglass bumpers are molded in a different way with a two part mold, the same problem results because they need the mash to "flow" inside the mold cavity to get a complete part went no external voids.
Expect failure throughout 30 plus year old fiberglass parts. It's par for the course as the resin degrades over time and isn't as strong as it was when new. My 60 year old fiberglass cruising/racing sailboat is still extremely strong as it was properly laid up with separate layers of different types of cloth and was overbuilt.
Duncan |
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Vanagon Nut Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2008 Posts: 10379 Location: Sunshine Coast B.C.
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Posted: Thu Jun 17, 2021 10:00 am Post subject: Re: Poptop Lift Bar Went Through Roof! |
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TMWheelock wrote: |
I'm also missing the reenforcement plates that others have mentioned.
Does anyone sell the roof brackets? I did a little research but didn't find much.
All this being said should I reenforce the drivers side bracket along with the passenger side bracket?
I can also confirm that I do have springs in the arms.
Also I felt around to see if there were holes for screws to go into where the bracket seems to be missing one and didn't feel anything. I suppose I could drill into the frame and add them myself.
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Is the cable in each arm tight when top is down?
It appears your tent attaches with screws to top. So, there's no wood frame for the screws to attach to. Do NOT screw screws into the fibreglass lip.
As commented earlier, 1/16" metal should work as a reinforcing plate. A hardware or building store might even have a framing brace plate that's close to the right size or even a pre bent brace you could shape to size. Regardless, clamp the new flat piece of 1/16" metal in a vise, bend the short lip, transfer hole position from top to new plate, drill holes in new plate. Even if the plate edge hangs a bit low, (is a bit too long at lip) since you'd remove sharp corners and burrs on the new plate, i doubt that exposed edge would be an issue. Easy to protect it with something.
The new plate spreads the lifting force to a larger surface area. The plate lip, that would butt up against the lip of top, would spread out forces due to lateral movement. e.g. windy conditions. i.e. if there was no lip, over a lot of use and time, the plate edge at lip return might cause cracking at that point.
I repainted the brackets on my '81 with staple type tent. I haven't inspected them in a while but they're likely still fine though I don't think they were as rusty as yours'.
Neil.
1988 Westy plate:
_________________ 1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA
1988 West DIY 50º ABA
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