project git R done - 1977

[dlwilson]

[dlwilson]

So I pulled off the rear sheet metal, and the fan shroud, and I was able to get the rear support bar on without too much trouble. And I left the sheet metal off to make it easier to get the engine in.

I got the engine/trans in, and was pretty happy, until I realized I hadn't put in the bolts for the rear trans mount hanger. The rear of the trans hadn't actually slid into the hanger, so the hanger was pushed up a bit by the trans. I lowered the engine/trans, and got the rear of the trans to slide into the hanger, but just couldn't get the two bolts to line up. It's like the hanger has rotated to the rear a bit so its rear bolt holes are higher than its front bolt holes. I worked with it for a while, but finally quit around midnight.

I guess the engine/trans has to come back out, so I can pull the trans mount and inspect it. I can't quite figure out how it comes out, but hopefully Bentley has some thoughts on that. I was hoping the actually drive the bus for the holiday weekend, so ideally the trans mount just needs some "adjustment" to get it straight.
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1977 Bus, with 1973 1.7L engine (rebuild complete, install underway)

[brownbus2]

https://www.ratwell.com/technical/EngineRemoval.html

you may know about this ...but if not, it is a bit more helpful than just the Bentley
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formerly known as Brown_Bus
1976 FI Marino Yellow Westy

[dlwilson]

You know how you're stuck on something, and you go away and come back, and it just clicks? That's what happened here, as the two bolts for the transmission carrier just slid in, and I got the engine fully installed. Woo hoo. More progress followed, including the engine seal. It looks a lot better with the seal in. Where does the heavier firewall seal go, over or under the foam seal?

I put in the accelerator cable. I was concerned about length, since this is a 1977 FI bus, and it's getting a 1973 dual carb engine. The old cable was too small, so I ordered one for a 1973 bus. It slid right in, although I'm not sure what the red plastic tube is for. Was it just to hold the part number sticker?

The throttle cable is just an inch too long, so I cut a space from thickwall tubing. I tried a bunch of e-clips, and 5/16 is the closest, but it doesn't look right. I feel like it should be an 8mm. Do they even make metric e-clips? Anyway, it doesn't work, since the e-clip pops right off as soon as I step on the pedal and take it to movement on the carb linkage. Is there some special VW e-clip that goes there? I haven't been able to find a close-up photo.

While I was putting in the cable I noticed that the steering box is leaking. I guess I'll have to address that.

I removed the old fuel pump. Jetfxr69, are you sure you want it?

I got the oil changed from the break-in, hooked up the shift rod (still super loose but workable), and installed new battery positive and negative cables. Then I turned the key to the run position, and actually got a light on the dash when I pulled out the headlight switch. Just a battery light (I think) but at least it is alive after however many years. There was no fuse in #8 spot, so I put one in and tried spinning the engine, but got nothing. Should I even bother trying to use those old bullet fuses? I've put new fuse boxes in old American cars, so I could probably replace this one, but I was really hoping it would just work, ha ha.

I gotta fix that throttle cable/linkage somehow, and then it looks like it's just going to be electrical work to get the bus moving. Yes, I still need to replace one of the tie rods, and do the swing lever bushing, and make door cards, and get the new tail lights and side marker lights properly wired, and get the driver and passenger seats fully mounted, but I think it will mostly be wiring. Bleah.
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1977 Bus, with 1973 1.7L engine (rebuild complete, install underway)

[Jetfxr69]

yes please
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You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline. It helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer. Zappa

‘77 westy Seamus
‘76 tintop Crusher
‘77 westy The Judge
‘72 tintop bastard westy Hudson

[soissisc]

The straight end goes to the carb, and the hook end goes to the accelerator, right?
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Mark

68 Westy
92 Jetta (oh it is retired)
99 Eurovan
05 NBC
06 Audi A3
72 Westy (I am going to fix it up)

[dlwilson]

[dlwilson]

I've made some progress. I was able to connect the battery and spin over the engine using the ignition switch, which was nice. I also identified the wire that supplies ignition power to the coil and distributor and carbs.

It took a long time to order and receive parts for the accelerator pedal, but eventually I got everything except the accelerator spring (which is out of stock) -- pedal, hinge, pin, and rubber boot for the rod. I drilled out the spot welds for the hinge, and used a aeam buster to remove the hinge, which also took out a piece of floor, so I had to weld in a patch. Then I welded in the hinge, which was a pain, since I needed three hands to hold the hinge, ground clamp, and mig gun, as well as wedging my head in there with the helmet on. But I got it done, and then put on pedal and pin and cable. I'm waiting on an accelerator pedal spring from eBay.

At the back end of the bus I made a spacer for the carb linkage and used a cotter pin to hold it all together. At the front end it feels pretty stiff, but I think I have full range of motion. The correct accelerator spring might help, and I want to add a carb return spring in the engine compartment.

I poured a couple gallons of gas in, and tried starting, but all I got was backfiring (make your guess now). Eventually I found that I had swapped plug wires 3 and 4, and was able to get the engine to run, and I actually put the bus in gear and moved it forward and back a few feet. Huge moment!

The engine won't idle, so hopefully it's timing-related. I have a friend who knows about timing guns coming this weekend. I also need to clean up the wiring a bit, as I'm supplying power to the coil with an alligator jumper. If I can fix those two things I should be able to drive around the neighborhood.

There is a gasoline smell, since there's no charcoal cannister. I guess I need to get one, and run the vent lines from the tank to it.

Also nothing electrical on the dash works. The wiring under the dash is quite hacked up. And although I have new tail lights and side maker lights, none of that works. But still, the bus moved under its own power for the first time in I don't know how long.
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1977 Bus, with 1973 1.7L engine (rebuild complete, install underway)