Bent Frame Horns

[bugblanc]

After days of struggling to get my engine in and then back out again I realise that the transmission is sitting way too high and there is no way the engine is going in. At best it sits 20mm too high into the bay and it still needs to go up another 25mm to get on to the shaft.

I have a Rhino case and mounts on a stock height heavy duty support. There is about 20mm clear to the firewall and that is with the seal channel cut away. So that isn't right.

The body and pan has been extensively repaired by a guy who knows what he is doing. He was doing it as a mates rate favour but his mate ran out of money. I have a ton of photos so I can see what was done, how it was jigged up and that it was done witty good quality parts. And it all looks good.

So why? I am beginning to think it might be the frame horns. When I put a level to it both horns kick up about 25mm at the end which is exactly what I am looking for. There is no obvious signs of damage to the rear but the front has had a nasty bump at some time in the past and all the wings were replace with fibreglass items a long time ago.

So am I correct in thinking that the spine of the pandemic should be pretty much straight along its whole length?

And if they are bent any suggestions on the best way to remedy the problem?

TIA
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'65 Beetle FB @BugBlanc
'18 Polo R-Line
'19 Crafter LWB 140 Auto Conversion FB @VWVanWolf

[Dan the workingstiff]

Maybe some method of a floorjack chained to the frame horn similar to replacing spring plate bushings. Jack in the center of the horn and chain the motor end.
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'69 Beetle
'66 FG buggy
My other air-cooled's
'76 IH 1200
'75 IH 1200

[finster]

does this help?

interestingly IRS horns bend up...

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"we're here on Earth to fart around" kurt vonnegut

nothing lasts, nothing is finished, and nothing is perfect...

[bugblanc]

So thanks for the info, we have decided that the frame horns aren't bent.

The next problem would be body sag but it doesn't. I have a shed load of pics from the guy I bought the car (in kit form) from and he did a bang up job with the new metalwork. The body shell was blasted clean and then braced before the rotten metal was cut away. It was then built up with the new channels on the pan. Everything looks right and the doors in particular are correct dimensions in the diagonal and at the cill.

I have slotted a heavy duty cradle which allows me 10mm of deep at the bell housing before I can't get a socket on the bolts and 12mm before the axle tubes/boots sit on the horns. This drops the back of the engine 15-20mm which may work.

Still scratching my head as to why.
_________________
'65 Beetle FB @BugBlanc
'18 Polo R-Line
'19 Crafter LWB 140 Auto Conversion FB @VWVanWolf