Adjustable beam

[tonyd0822]

Looking for some advice. My first go with a VW bug and I am trying to find out how to exactly adjust this beam. I can't seem to find this style anywhere online. Anyone come across one of these and can tell me they are adjusted? Which bolts to start with? Thanks!

its a 68 pan.

[sgmalt46]

that is the original select-a-drop. that went out before the mullet. the adjusting nut to adjust is above the pad of your floor jack. and there is a lock nut above that. simply turn the center threaded rod up or down. it only moves the upper torsion bars. the bottom does not move. not he best setup. looks to be lowered all the way?
that is circa 1980's ? maybe late 70's? even? made for a terrible ride. yikes.
Steve
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55 deluxe 23 window bus
64 crew cab
55 rag top beetle
66 beetle
71 square back (sold) ! good luck with it Henry!
46 beetle 552nd royal army service corps CCG

[tonyd0822]

Terrible ride is an understatement! Good to know. Appreciate the info!

[Busstom]

Lose that beam ASAP and research the lowering threads to realize your dreams. If you don't realize how that design is working and what it's doing to your springs to accomplish the task of lowering the car, then I'm not sure where to start explaining...so I won't try.

Suffice to say, all it's doing is pulling the springs under extreme tension (applying torsional force) to compress them and cause the front end to sink. The problem is, it's using the range of spring twist (or compression) that you normally need to flex the suspension and absorb bumps and shocks going down the road, so when that Select-a-Drop is under tension, you HAVE no more suspension...you've used up the springs' capacity to twist (flex) and absorb anymore bumps/ruts/potholes in the road. It's super hard on the suspension system as a whole, and hard on the car, AND your nerves.

You can salvage the beam by welding in genuine Sway-a-Way adjusters (please don't buy cheap Chinese EMPIs), but ultimately you should combine spring adjustment with "drop" spindles.

Do some (re)searchin!

[tonyd0822]

If I raise it up in the mean time while I figure out the the next steps to take, will I gain some suspension back to where it doesn't bounce like crazy? It doesnt seem too safe...

Thinking a new beam with the adjusters and drop spindles.

Thanks

[Busstom]

Yes, crank the threaded rod to make the two huge U-brackets as close to even (parallel) as possible. Like Steve said, the upper one is the articulating one, and it may contact the body if you go full parallel.
But just go as far as possible and that will relax the preload that the Select-a-Drop is applying to the torsion spring-packs.

My buddy installed one of those in his '58 Cal Looker back in about 1982, and it rocked our brains out...not in a GOOD way

[EVfun]

It you raise the car back up to where the 2 U sections are parallel with each other it should end up at the stock ride height and the suspension should ride reasonably well. The old select-a-drop lowered the Bug by just turning the upper torsion bar, while the lower one remained in the stock position. That kind of different preload for each bar made for a bad ride. If you lesson the difference in preload the ride will improve.
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