Request for advise on next steps

[KrisKay]

Hi All,

Reaching out to seek advise on next steps for my '68 Beetle full resto. project.
I'm up to getting ready for paint for certain areas.

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Chassis assembly
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Some background:
- Floor pans, front axel, engine, transmission, etc. is removed
- All damages are repaired/welded
- I currently have the bottom of the tunnel off
- My tunnel is quite rusty
- I have wire wheeled the complete tunnel - inside and out, but there is still quite a bit of rust remaining

Would next step be?:
1. Paint it inside and out with rust converter (https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-rust-converter-500ml/425361.html?cgid=SCA01100102#start=2)
2. Wait overnight
3. Sand it, inside and out, using grits 180 to 600 (is this step required?)
4. Clean with wax and grease remover
5. Paint the inside of the tunnel and any sections that would be welded with 3 coats of weld-through primer (https://www.carbuilders.com.au/etch-primer-1k)
6. Let cure overnight
7. Install piping/plumbing
8. Weld on tunnel bottom
9. Weld on new floor pans
10. Remove factory paint from floor pans
11. Paint chassis assembly with rust converter/wait overnight/sand again (is this step required due to flash rusting?)
12. Completely paint chassis assembly with 3 coats of a zinc-rich paint using air compressor (I haven't pick a paint yet)
13. Leave to cure for 1 month


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Wheels
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Some background:
- I have 5 stock Beetle wheels
- All wheels have been stripped, valve-stems removed, etc.
- All dirt/grease removed
- They are quite rusty on the inside of the wheels

Would next step be?:
1. Sandblast wheels using sandblasting cabinet
2. Dry-sand wheels using grits 180 to 600 (is this step required?)
3. Clean with wax and grease remover
4. Paint wheels with 3 coats of regular primer using air compressor (I haven't pick a paint yet)
5. Paint wheels with 3 coats of regular base coats using air compressor
6. Paint wheels with 3 coats of regular clear coat using air compressor
7. Bake each wheel in a conventional oven for 1 hour at 250 degrees celsius (this is the max. temp of the oven)
8. Leave to cure for 1 month


Further questions are:
- What is the best way to hang a wheel for painting?
- I am quite concerned about missing a spot of rust somewhere and painting over it. What negative effects would occur if this happens?
- Should I do 1/2/all wheels at time?

I am an amateur and this is my first resto. project.
I'd great appreciate any/all advise.
Apologies for the long post.

Thanks!

[Eric&Barb]

A wheel is a collection of parts since before WW2 in the automotive world. Rim, tire, tire stem or inner tube at a minimum to make a wheel.

Rims are a good candidate for powder coating. A powder coating shop will take cleaned (especially of grease and oils) rims for them to sand blast and color coat. If you go that way do have the PC shop apply a Marine Primer (that has a zinc content) before the color coat. The Marine Primer will help to vastly slow any rust getting under it and the color coat when they are chipped, scratched or dinged, etc..

The only downfall of PC is that where the inner and outer parts of the rim are welded together so as to form a "V" the coating can make the coating thin or not at all. So if you can not find an exact color match in the PC coating, you could scuff the PC coatings up and apply a wet paint/s to the outer side of the rims.

Any rust left under normal paint is just going to come back to haunt you.
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!

[viiking]

Hello KrisKay. Fellow Sydney-ite with an original '68 in resto.

I would save yourself a lot of trouble and do the following for your tunnel.

1. Remove all the loose and flaking rust with wire-brushing, sanding, grinding whatever your preference is.
2. Research KBS Coatings. A local Australian company doing similar coatings to the US POR15.

Their three step process is to use an alkaline cleaning solution to remove grease and oils, then a rust converting step which stabilises rusty areas and provides a key to paint and finally a rust encapsulating polyurethane hard as nails coating to finish off. This can all be very successfully painted by brush (cheap brushes, throw away - but do not get it on your hands as it takes weeks to get off - use gloves).

Some of their products and literature is here.

https://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/product/chassis-coater-kit/

Prior to painting with the top coat mentioned above (around the area where the heat affected zone of the welding is going to be on the tunnel), spray that area with some sort of weld through primer. You can use either a copper based spray, or a zinc based gal spray to paint that area. I used Gal-Met zinc spray available from Bunnings. Then paint all the rest of the tunnel inside with the KBS. Weld and then paint the outsides.

Inevitably part of the paint will burn off around the HAZ when you weld. You can flood the area around it with some more of the KBS paint. There are enough holes in the tunnel that you can rig up some brushes attached to sticks to cover any burnt areas.

If you are fortunate that you can even tip the chassis on its side, the paint will flow back into the tunnel to bottom plate and give you coverage. The picture of my chassis mounted on two engine stands allows you to rotate the chassis. After I welded in new floor pans, I was able to completely flood the inside of the tunnel with paint by having it stand vertically. Filled the tunnel with paint and waited for the inevitable drips coming through the tunnel to pan intersection. Let it dry for a few days, then painted the floor pans top and bottom with KBS by brush and finally seam sealed the tunnel to pan area. Came out like glass.

You CAN spray the KBS but cleaning your gun will be a PAIN.

_________________
1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3

[KrisKay]

I just wanted to thank you both for your responses.

viiking, your post has really influenced me. After researching KBS Coatings, I decided to do exactly what you recommended. I've also purchased two of the same engine stands from Supercheap.

I wanted to ask:
- How many litres did you use to paint your chassis assembly?
- How many coats of KBS?
- Did you paint the front axle assembly with KBS also?

I will share a pic of mine after I'm done.

Thanks again.

[viiking]