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Wheeljack Samba Member
Joined: January 20, 2020 Posts: 99 Location: Utica, Nebraska
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Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2020 2:54 pm Post subject: Re: Future plans and would like some advice |
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This is the Alternator I'm looking at, however the description is garbage, doesn't say externally or internally regulated. https://www.jbugs.com/product/AL82NEC.html |
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dustymojave Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007 Posts: 5802 Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2020 3:19 pm Post subject: Re: Future plans and would like some advice |
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Yeah, Thanks fur nuttin' JBugs!
I would contact them to verify before you send $$$. What you get may not even be the same as what they show. Get it in writing which they are sending, internal or external. The one shown appears to be an internally regulated alternator, based on the configuration of the terminals. Large B+ stud, and smaller spade terminal for the idjit light circuit. _________________ Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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rayjay Samba Member
Joined: March 26, 2008 Posts: 1505 Location: Buford GA
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Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2020 4:44 pm Post subject: Re: Future plans and would like some advice |
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You also need an alternator specific stand I believe ( Richard has me hedging now ) |
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Wheeljack Samba Member
Joined: January 20, 2020 Posts: 99 Location: Utica, Nebraska
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Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2020 4:51 pm Post subject: Re: Future plans and would like some advice |
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So I'm dumb, just looked at the Q&A for that alternator and someone did ask about a regulator, according to JBugs, that particular alternator is internally regulated. So a few other questions, one, besides nomenclature, what is the difference between the generator and the alternator. Then, is JBugs a good reputable source for parts, or are there better sites? |
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halfassleatherworks Samba Member
Joined: December 09, 2018 Posts: 641 Location: Reno NV
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Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2020 5:30 pm Post subject: Re: Future plans and would like some advice |
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Do not get that.
don't pace it together get a complete kit
with alt, stand and fan plate for the fan housing
https://www.jbugs.com/product/9450.html _________________ Halfass Leatherworks*****GOT LEATHER Made to order Leather crafts, you can find us on that face book thing
Belts, wallets, mouse pads, drink coasters, Engraving, most things made in leather.
personal items if you want it in leather in Reno Nv, ***** |
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Wheeljack Samba Member
Joined: January 20, 2020 Posts: 99 Location: Utica, Nebraska
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mkparker Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2004 Posts: 332 Location: Sherman, Tx
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Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2020 8:20 am Post subject: Re: Future plans and would like some advice |
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A full kit would be the best way to go if funds allow.
This is the internally regulated wiring change for a Bug. Yours should be much simpler in the number of connections.
_________________ Michael
Pit Boy 6163 Spec Trophy Truck |
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Double-Double Samba Member
Joined: October 25, 2019 Posts: 640 Location: Oregon
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Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2020 8:31 am Post subject: Re: Future plans and would like some advice |
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I got the 75 amp kit off ebay for $120 just saying..... _________________ “If anyone desires to come after Me, let him deny himself, and take up his cross, and follow Me. For whoever desires to save his life will lose it, but whoever loses his life for My sake will find it.”
—Matthew 16:24–25 |
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Wheeljack Samba Member
Joined: January 20, 2020 Posts: 99 Location: Utica, Nebraska
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Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2020 8:39 am Post subject: Re: Future plans and would like some advice |
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I usually shy away from ebay specials. |
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Double-Double Samba Member
Joined: October 25, 2019 Posts: 640 Location: Oregon
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Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2020 10:33 am Post subject: Re: Future plans and would like some advice |
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Wheeljack wrote: |
I usually shy away from ebay specials. |
Same company makes them for Jbugs but if you want to pay twice as much have at it. _________________ “If anyone desires to come after Me, let him deny himself, and take up his cross, and follow Me. For whoever desires to save his life will lose it, but whoever loses his life for My sake will find it.”
—Matthew 16:24–25 |
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Wheeljack Samba Member
Joined: January 20, 2020 Posts: 99 Location: Utica, Nebraska
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Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2020 10:36 am Post subject: Re: Future plans and would like some advice |
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Probably could have led with that. I'll check out all options. |
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Wheeljack Samba Member
Joined: January 20, 2020 Posts: 99 Location: Utica, Nebraska
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Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2020 12:33 pm Post subject: Re: Future plans and would like some advice |
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I have a couple questions about cutting or turning brakes. I know they can be used in a way of a limited slip differential, are they worth the extra wear on the transaxle? If I were to add them, do they just T in with the rear brakes? |
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Wheeljack Samba Member
Joined: January 20, 2020 Posts: 99 Location: Utica, Nebraska
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Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2021 7:11 pm Post subject: Re: Future plans and would like some advice |
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Since I'm going to go with the Warrior knock down, I'm kind of wanting to incorporate some styling points from the Chenowth FAV they built during the Gulf war for the military. Besides pictures from the web, any reference books to use? I'm not going for the triple shock rear or the dual shock front end, just want to take some of the side "running boards"/storage and maybe build end engine to use a Webber 2 bbl style carb. I'll have one of my engines down here in a couple weeks with the heads (heads are 1970s dual port) so I'll know for sure the build date on my second, since it's possible it's not a 1963 that I was told. Or it is and the heads are different from the engine case. |
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Aerindel Samba Member
Joined: May 30, 2015 Posts: 459 Location: Western Montana
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Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2021 7:59 pm Post subject: Re: Future plans and would like some advice |
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Wheeljack wrote: |
Since I'm going to go with the Warrior knock down, I'm kind of wanting to incorporate some styling points from the Chenowth FAV they built during the Gulf war for the military. Besides pictures from the web, any reference books to use? I'm not going for the triple shock rear or the dual shock front end, just want to take some of the side "running boards"/storage and maybe build end engine to use a Webber 2 bbl style carb. I'll have one of my engines down here in a couple weeks with the heads (heads are 1970s dual port) so I'll know for sure the build date on my second, since it's possible it's not a 1963 that I was told. Or it is and the heads are different from the engine case. |
I'm doing the same thing with mine.
IMO, the biggest style cues are the gunners seat and the spare tire mounted above the rear tires. I'm planning on doing both to mine as part of the long term plan once I get it street legal.
Where I'm at:
[/img][/img][img][/img] _________________ Homemade woods/street, bug out rail. IRS, Balljoint front end. 1967 1600cc DP, Weber 32/36 progressive, tri-mil quiet pack. Rear only cutting brakes.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=630046 |
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Wheeljack Samba Member
Joined: January 20, 2020 Posts: 99 Location: Utica, Nebraska
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Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2021 8:13 pm Post subject: Re: Future plans and would like some advice |
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Aerindel wrote: |
Wheeljack wrote: |
Since I'm going to go with the Warrior knock down, I'm kind of wanting to incorporate some styling points from the Chenowth FAV they built during the Gulf war for the military. Besides pictures from the web, any reference books to use? I'm not going for the triple shock rear or the dual shock front end, just want to take some of the side "running boards"/storage and maybe build end engine to use a Webber 2 bbl style carb. I'll have one of my engines down here in a couple weeks with the heads (heads are 1970s dual port) so I'll know for sure the build date on my second, since it's possible it's not a 1963 that I was told. Or it is and the heads are different from the engine case. |
I'm doing the same thing with mine.
IMO, the biggest style cues are the gunners seat and the spare tire mounted above the rear tires. I'm planning on doing both to mine as part of the long term plan once I get it street legal.
[img]https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/67/US_Navy_020413-N-5362A-013_U.S._Navy_SEALs_%28SEa%2C_Air%2C_Land%29_operate_Desert_Patrol_Vehicles_%28DPV%29_while_preparing_for_an_upcoming_mission.jpg/600px-US_Navy_020413-N-5362A-013_U.S._Navy_SEALs_%28SEa%2C_Air%2C_Land%29_operate_Desert_Patrol_Vehicles_%28DPV%29_while_preparing_for_an_upcoming_mission.jpg
[/img]
Where I'm at:
[/img][/img][img][/img] |
Looks very nice! Though I'm just going to leave mine with the standard two seater. Also leaving it as the 5x205 bolt pattern. At first I didn't care for it, I thought a 4xX pattern looked better. But the more I see the large 5x pattern, the more I like it. My goal as well is build it Street legal. Not sure if I'll stay with the type one transaxle with swing axles, or if I'll search for a bus IRS transaxle and adapt. Already going to swap out the internal differential gears for maybe a 5 or so to 1 ratio. Still debating on the tire size, may go with a 30x9.5 for the rear, just have to see what options I could get.
You running drums front and rear or did you swap for disc? |
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Aerindel Samba Member
Joined: May 30, 2015 Posts: 459 Location: Western Montana
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Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2021 8:53 pm Post subject: Re: Future plans and would like some advice |
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Quote: |
You running drums front and rear or did you swap for disc?
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It came to me with just rear drums and no fronts at all.
I was going to put drums on the front but my free parts front end that I picked up I decided was too rusty and looking at it starting from scratch parts for front drums is about the same as cheap front discs so in the very near future I'm going with front discs. Going to keep the rear drums because they work well enough to lock up my wheels and I already have them.
I'm definitely building a 'gunners' seat at some point because I have a family of three and would have a hard time leaving one of them behind to go cruising.
Quote: |
Already going to swap out the internal differential gears for maybe a 5 or so to 1 ratio |
How hard is this to do? Something I would really like on mine is more low end as I live in the rockies and everything is uphill. I don't think I've ever even used 4th gear. _________________ Homemade woods/street, bug out rail. IRS, Balljoint front end. 1967 1600cc DP, Weber 32/36 progressive, tri-mil quiet pack. Rear only cutting brakes.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=630046 |
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dustymojave Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007 Posts: 5802 Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 10:41 am Post subject: Re: Future plans and would like some advice |
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If you use a Bus IRS trans, like an early 1970s vintage "002" (identifiable from the 3 ribs on the top of the differential area) came with 5.38:1 ring and pinion. No need to change the gears. A late 70s "091" 6-rib trans came with 4.56 gears, but is a stouter overall trans than the already stouter than Type 1 002.
Check the "Transmissions For Dummies" thread
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=143138
at the top of the HBB Offroad index.
Early Buses, 1967 and earlier, came with a swingaxle rear suspension and the same trans as a swingaxle Bug, but the axles have reduction gear boxes at the outer ends. The trans bolts into swingaxle Bug or buggy built with a Bug torsion housing and trans mount yokes, but the axles don't bolt to the spring plates like Bug axles do. These reduction gear boxes (called "Portal Axles" for vehicles like Mercedes Unimog) reduce the ratio from the 4.37:1 at the ring and pinion by about 1.3:1. That makes your overall ratio like 5.68:1. There are adapter kits that were made in the 70s and 80s, but are not available off the shelf now, and they include a radius rod to improve the suspension. You can find them for sale on here in the Classifieds sometimes. Look for "No Hop" kits. Search the HBB Offroad forums for them for more info. Reduction boxes also raise the rear of the car about 3" _________________ Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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Wheeljack Samba Member
Joined: January 20, 2020 Posts: 99 Location: Utica, Nebraska
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Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2021 7:47 pm Post subject: Re: Future plans and would like some advice |
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dustymojave wrote: |
If you use a Bus IRS trans, like an early 1970s vintage "002" (identifiable from the 3 ribs on the top of the differential area) came with 5.38:1 ring and pinion. No need to change the gears. A late 70s "091" 6-rib trans came with 4.56 gears, but is a stouter overall trans than the already stouter than Type 1 002.
Check the "Transmissions For Dummies" thread
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=143138
at the top of the HBB Offroad index.
Early Buses, 1967 and earlier, came with a swingaxle rear suspension and the same trans as a swingaxle Bug, but the axles have reduction gear boxes at the outer ends. The trans bolts into swingaxle Bug or buggy built with a Bug torsion housing and trans mount yokes, but the axles don't bolt to the spring plates like Bug axles do. These reduction gear boxes (called "Portal Axles" for vehicles like Mercedes Unimog) reduce the ratio from the 4.37:1 at the ring and pinion by about 1.3:1. That makes your overall ratio like 5.68:1. There are adapter kits that were made in the 70s and 80s, but are not available off the shelf now, and they include a radius rod to improve the suspension. You can find them for sale on here in the Classifieds sometimes. Look for "No Hop" kits. Search the HBB Offroad forums for them for more info. Reduction boxes also raise the rear of the car about 3" |
It would be nice to have portal axles, but I'll have to make sure I stay with one transaxle or the other. Since a swing axle is going to have a different trailing arm and I think different torsion tube over the cv axle IRS. Currently have two, type 1 transaxle, both are swing axle. Just the one on the current buggy is mostly useable, the spare needs new side plates and axle boot, and probably other work.
I'm looking at 205/75/15 for the front and 30x9.5x15 rear, both are General Grabber A/T. Fronts should be around 27.4" in diameter. Other than better on road ride and camber wear, any other benefits cv axle IRS has over the swing axle design?
As far as replacing the differential gear set difficulty? No idea. If it's anything like doing a beam axle or independent suspension differential, would need special tools such as a dial indicator to make sure the run out is within spec. |
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dustymojave Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007 Posts: 5802 Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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Posted: Tue Jun 22, 2021 12:00 pm Post subject: Re: Future plans and would like some advice |
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Wheeljack wrote: |
dustymojave wrote: |
If you use a Bus IRS trans, like an early 1970s vintage "002" (identifiable from the 3 ribs on the top of the differential area) came with 5.38:1 ring and pinion. No need to change the gears. A late 70s "091" 6-rib trans came with 4.56 gears, but is a stouter overall trans than the already stouter than Type 1 002.
Check the "Transmissions For Dummies" thread
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=143138
at the top of the HBB Offroad index.
Early Buses, 1967 and earlier, came with a swingaxle rear suspension and the same trans as a swingaxle Bug, but the axles have reduction gear boxes at the outer ends. The trans bolts into swingaxle Bug or buggy built with a Bug torsion housing and trans mount yokes, but the axles don't bolt to the spring plates like Bug axles do. These reduction gear boxes (called "Portal Axles" for vehicles like Mercedes Unimog) reduce the ratio from the 4.37:1 at the ring and pinion by about 1.3:1. That makes your overall ratio like 5.68:1. There are adapter kits that were made in the 70s and 80s, but are not available off the shelf now, and they include a radius rod to improve the suspension. You can find them for sale on here in the Classifieds sometimes. Look for "No Hop" kits. Search the HBB Offroad forums for them for more info. Reduction boxes also raise the rear of the car about 3" |
It would be nice to have portal axles, but I'll have to make sure I stay with one transaxle or the other. Since a swing axle is going to have a different trailing arm and I think different torsion tube over the cv axle IRS. Currently have two, type 1 transaxle, both are swing axle. Just the one on the current buggy is mostly useable, the spare needs new side plates and axle boot, and probably other work.
I'm looking at 205/75/15 for the front and 30x9.5x15 rear, both are General Grabber A/T. Fronts should be around 27.4" in diameter. Other than better on road ride and camber wear, any other benefits cv axle IRS has over the swing axle design?
As far as replacing the differential gear set difficulty? No idea. If it's anything like doing a beam axle or independent suspension differential, would need special tools such as a dial indicator to make sure the run out is within spec. |
Those tire sizes are fine for a buggy or a Baja.
I'm not fond of the General tires. They tend to be VERY heavy relative to other similar tires and less flat resistant.
IRS has benefits in how one drives the car, the swing axle has a tendency to "jack" under side loadings on the rear tires. One who is accustomed to it can drive a swingaxle very well. Those who are accustomed to the handling of most modern cars are more inclined to test the roll bar. Also IRS has more potential for long wheel travel which lends to smoother offroad ride.
As for making internal changes inside the VW transaxle, it takes a LOT more special tools than a dial indicator. If you change the ring and pinion, the pinion shaft has the gears cut in it as well. So the entire transaxle must be completely rebuilt from the ground up. You're not just dealing with the differential. Replacing side plates can affect ring and pinion contact, as the side plates support the differential carrier and thus the ring gear. So you would need to go through an entire ring and pinion setup if you replace side plates. That is likely to get into the whole transmission as the pinion shaft, again, has all the gears on it. _________________ Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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Wheeljack Samba Member
Joined: January 20, 2020 Posts: 99 Location: Utica, Nebraska
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Posted: Tue Jun 22, 2021 12:14 pm Post subject: Re: Future plans and would like some advice |
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dustymojave wrote: |
Wheeljack wrote: |
dustymojave wrote: |
If you use a Bus IRS trans, like an early 1970s vintage "002" (identifiable from the 3 ribs on the top of the differential area) came with 5.38:1 ring and pinion. No need to change the gears. A late 70s "091" 6-rib trans came with 4.56 gears, but is a stouter overall trans than the already stouter than Type 1 002.
Check the "Transmissions For Dummies" thread
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=143138
at the top of the HBB Offroad index.
Early Buses, 1967 and earlier, came with a swingaxle rear suspension and the same trans as a swingaxle Bug, but the axles have reduction gear boxes at the outer ends. The trans bolts into swingaxle Bug or buggy built with a Bug torsion housing and trans mount yokes, but the axles don't bolt to the spring plates like Bug axles do. These reduction gear boxes (called "Portal Axles" for vehicles like Mercedes Unimog) reduce the ratio from the 4.37:1 at the ring and pinion by about 1.3:1. That makes your overall ratio like 5.68:1. There are adapter kits that were made in the 70s and 80s, but are not available off the shelf now, and they include a radius rod to improve the suspension. You can find them for sale on here in the Classifieds sometimes. Look for "No Hop" kits. Search the HBB Offroad forums for them for more info. Reduction boxes also raise the rear of the car about 3" |
It would be nice to have portal axles, but I'll have to make sure I stay with one transaxle or the other. Since a swing axle is going to have a different trailing arm and I think different torsion tube over the cv axle IRS. Currently have two, type 1 transaxle, both are swing axle. Just the one on the current buggy is mostly useable, the spare needs new side plates and axle boot, and probably other work.
I'm looking at 205/75/15 for the front and 30x9.5x15 rear, both are General Grabber A/T. Fronts should be around 27.4" in diameter. Other than better on road ride and camber wear, any other benefits cv axle IRS has over the swing axle design?
As far as replacing the differential gear set difficulty? No idea. If it's anything like doing a beam axle or independent suspension differential, would need special tools such as a dial indicator to make sure the run out is within spec. |
Those tire sizes are fine for a buggy or a Baja.
I'm not fond of the General tires. They tend to be VERY heavy relative to other similar tires and less flat resistant.
IRS has benefits in how one drives the car, the swing axle has a tendency to "jack" under side loadings on the rear tires. One who is accustomed to it can drive a swingaxle very well. Those who are accustomed to the handling of most modern cars are more inclined to test the roll bar. Also IRS has more potential for long wheel travel which lends to smoother offroad ride.
As for making internal changes inside the VW transaxle, it takes a LOT more special tools than a dial indicator. If you change the ring and pinion, the pinion shaft has the gears cut in it as well. So the entire transaxle must be completely rebuilt from the ground up. You're not just dealing with the differential. Replacing side plates can affect ring and pinion contact, as the side plates support the differential carrier and thus the ring gear. So you would need to go through an entire ring and pinion setup if you replace side plates. That is likely to get into the whole transmission as the pinion shaft, again, has all the gears on it. |
So basically it boils down to find a different transaxle with the gearing I want, for close to the same price and rebuilding the existing ones, or exceeding the cost of a different one. Well that does end up with less headache in the long run than trying to source all the tooling to do it myself or hire out a shop that could do it and end up screwing it up.
As far as the General tires go, I'm torn between those and BFG A/T, haven't looked to see if they go that short for the front or not. |
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