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dasilva Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2020 Posts: 69
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Posted: Sat Jun 19, 2021 1:39 pm Post subject: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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I purchased a RG11 kit. I drive a 1989 Westfalia, 2WD, automatic.
I'm trying to do the Tachometer Modification. I'm following the instructions in the manual to the best of my ability.
1) I've got the tachometer out of the instrument cluster - but I think the needle for the gauge is preventing me from accessing the circuit board. Has anybody else run into this issue?
2) A mystery gold bracket fell out of somewhere(???) when the tachometer was removed. I'm unsure how it re-attaches into the assembly. If anyone could provide some insight or direction it would be greatly appreciated.
Regards
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Bills85Westy Samba Member
Joined: August 01, 2009 Posts: 423 Location: Napa CA
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Posted: Sat Jun 19, 2021 1:59 pm Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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I’m not sure what is required of the mod, but I’ve used a dinner fork under the needle to remove it. It will take quite a bit of force. This was at the recommendation of Christopher at T3 Technique in the plasma gauge upgrade.
I just looked at a spare tach on the shelf and don’t believe the mystery bracket is part of your tach assembly.
Good luck! _________________ 89 Tristar Syncro Doka - White
85 Westfalia Syncro (conversion)
SAH 1.8T Conversion - 2005 AWP
Engine Conversion Thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=612144&highlight=
85 Doka L345 Grey - 1.9L |
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Brownj Samba Member
Joined: November 05, 2017 Posts: 33 Location: Southern Maine
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Posted: Sat Jun 19, 2021 7:38 pm Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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You don't need to remove the needle at all. When you first remove the instrument cluster the circuit board to be modified is visible (circled in red below). It looks like you've already removed it?
I'm not sure what the bracket is for. |
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dasilva Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2020 Posts: 69
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Posted: Tue Jun 22, 2021 9:40 am Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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Thanks for the replies. The tachometer is in a plastic case. I managed to slide out, remove and get to the circuit board behind.
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dasilva Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2020 Posts: 69
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Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 11:46 am Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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Bostig RG11.
I'm still fumbling with the tachometer modification. I've removed the tachometer. I've identified the resistor's to remove.
1) In the manual, the new resistor to be soldered is brown(ish) with yellow/red/orange stripe, and positioned at 12 o'clock. Image attached.
2)The only resistor I could find was with the MIL. It's blue, and positioned at 9 o'clock. (rotation, oops) Image attached. Is this the correct resistor?
3) With the MIL Installation instructions, I see no mention of a resistor
Can anyone comment if this resistor is part of the MIL set-up?
Thanks |
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dasilva Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2020 Posts: 69
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Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2021 10:27 am Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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I fumbled upon tach answers. I'm posting answers to my own tach questions (bad form?).
1) The blue resistor is the proper resistor to solder in.
2) The 'mystery' brass piece sits behind the blue paper. Pictures attached from :
Bentley manual
and my re-install.
3) I would not recommend de-soldering/re-soldering. I broke the needle off my tach. Upon further samba research, it looks like some people use an empty peanut can or glass to ensure the needle is not snapped when removing old solder. Bostig sells a tachometer signal converter (http://www.bostig.com/tachometer-signal-converter/), which might be a better route to pursue. |
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jimf909 Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2014 Posts: 7401 Location: WA/ID
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Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2021 7:27 pm Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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dasilva wrote: |
I fumbled upon tach answers. I'm posting answers to my own tach questions (bad form?).
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Good form. FWIW, my bostig installer used the signal converter. _________________ - Jim
Abscate wrote: |
Do not get killed, do not kill others.
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Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, 280 ah LFP battery, 160 watts solar, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.
Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro). |
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dasilva Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2020 Posts: 69
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Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2021 12:21 pm Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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Yesterday, I lifted my engine/transmission back into the van.
Today, I'm working on securing the 3rd set of cradle to frame bolts secured (Step 26 on Page 28 of the Bostig Factory Manual RG11).
It's a tight fit. The bolts are in, but to torque them down is difficult. I can get a 13mm through the access hole. I can get a 13mm on the locknut. But I'm failing at holding while torqueing.
How have others done this? I'm working by myself today. Should I be using an impact gun?
Can anyone comment on what value this is to be torqued to? I'm guessing 35-40 ft/lbs (like the 4 other cradle to frame bolts).
Any help is appreciated.
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jimf909 Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2014 Posts: 7401 Location: WA/ID
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Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2021 12:45 pm Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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Your guess on torque values makes perfect sense. These bolts aren't a critical engine assembly that will go through hundreds of heat/cool cycles so gut und tight will work.
I'm sure you've read this over and over. You're not missing anything, torque values are stated clearly for four of the mounting bolts but not the final two.
_________________ - Jim
Abscate wrote: |
Do not get killed, do not kill others.
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Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, 280 ah LFP battery, 160 watts solar, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.
Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro). |
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dasilva Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2020 Posts: 69
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Posted: Sun Jul 18, 2021 2:04 pm Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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I'm trying to install the speed sensor for my 1989 Automatic Westfalia. Lots of parts!
I've watched to Bostig video.
Does anyone have tips or tricks on lining up the sensor to the speed sensor rings? I've bent the speed sensor bracket. When I go to tighten the 15mm bolt and the pair of 10mm bolts, everything wants to move.
Has anyone accomplished this task by themselves? |
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dasilva Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2020 Posts: 69
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Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2021 4:45 pm Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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I believe what I am pointing to is the cam cover breather
that is supposed to be connected to the airbox with the 16'' hose.
If anyone could confirm this, it would be greatly appreciated!
Also, are people using clamps to hold onto the cam breather? The hose keeps on slipping off what I believe is the cam cover breather connection....... |
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DanHoug Samba Member
Joined: December 05, 2016 Posts: 4715 Location: Bemidji, MN
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Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2021 5:01 pm Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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dunno about the Bostig in particular but in general the breather is attached to the air cleaner INSIDE the filter box so that if it DOES suck back under negative crankcase pressure, it is filtered air. some vent crankcase pressure to the outside... it keeps the airbox cleaner but at the expense of increased emissions, oil smell, and the possibility of reflux of unfiltered air into the engine. don't do it.
what you need to determine is if the Focus engine uses a PVC valve in that line. _________________ -dan
60% of what you find on the internet is wrong, including this post.
'87 Westy & '89 Westy both 2.1 4spd
Past projects can be found at--
www.thefixitworkshop.com |
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MsTaboo Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2006 Posts: 4065 Location: East Kootenay, British Columbia
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Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2021 5:17 pm Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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Yes, that's the valve cover breather port, line goes directly to the port on the air filter box. Yes, use clamps on both ends.
There should be a small square piece of foam inside the airbox just inside the port. This helps soak up stray oil.
Disregard the extra bit of grey plastic and tubing on mine in these pictures, I was experimenting with getting the evaporation system working.
Just plug it straight from the valve cover to the airbox.
The PCV valve is on the exhaust side under the header. _________________ Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec
The information age has morphed into the age of disinformation and willful ignorance. Agnotology!
Help the fight against Truth Decay.
Defend democracy, support Ukraine. |
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dasilva Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2020 Posts: 69
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Posted: Mon Jul 26, 2021 2:51 pm Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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I'm working on SK-W.
On Bostig's harness, the leg that has the injector harness has four (4) connections:
1) Injector Harness Connector
2) Alternator Connect0r
3) One that plugs into the engine, near the cam cover
4) ????
Does anyone have insight of this final connectors home? |
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MsTaboo Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2006 Posts: 4065 Location: East Kootenay, British Columbia
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Posted: Mon Jul 26, 2021 5:59 pm Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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Unused. Zip tie out of the way. _________________ Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec
The information age has morphed into the age of disinformation and willful ignorance. Agnotology!
Help the fight against Truth Decay.
Defend democracy, support Ukraine. |
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dasilva Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2020 Posts: 69
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Posted: Sun Aug 08, 2021 12:36 pm Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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Thanks for the help, Ms. Taboo.
I'm working on hooking up the coolant lines. My van is automatic and has the A/T cooler.
Does anyone know where Jim's scope of supply ends around the cooler?
My original lines around the A/T cooler seem a bit messy - and I'm trying to ensure I'm not going to forget a hose
that is required???
Pictures, if anyone has any, would be helpful.
Regards,
Carl |
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kourt Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2013 Posts: 1922 Location: Austin, TX
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Posted: Sun Aug 08, 2021 3:25 pm Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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Tell us--do you have a rear under-seat heater? If not, configure your hoses like a manual transmission. If you have a rear heater, it's more complex.
kourt |
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dasilva Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2020 Posts: 69
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Posted: Mon Aug 09, 2021 6:18 am Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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If by, 'rear under-seat heater,' you mean rear heater core - I do have one of those!
When you say it gets more complex, can you provide details?
Thanks!! |
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dasilva Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2020 Posts: 69
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Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2021 4:09 pm Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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I'm mounting the overflow bottle. Trying. It feels like juggling.
Especially attaching the bottle to the bracket before marking the points to be drilled with a sharpie.
The whole bracket moves. As long as I mark the bottom, do I really need to mark the top points on the bracket?
Any insight from bostig installers (bostigeers?) would be appreciated.
Thanks!
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Microbusdeluxe Samba Member
Joined: July 26, 2003 Posts: 977 Location: Bellingham, WA
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Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2021 5:01 pm Post subject: Re: Bostig - My RG11 build |
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Get one position marked, drill it and install a bolt. Then it's a lot easier to mark & drill the other two. _________________ '69 Squareback RIP
'65 21 window deluxe sold before the price spike, damn it.
'70 rhd bay now a taxi in South Sudan
'81 Westy sold
'89 hightop Westy Joker syncro 16" now with Bostig! |
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