New member, Intro and question/problem

[chippuller]

FarmerBill,
Plug wires are old.... but they look like they were "newish" when I got it. Apparently there had been a good bit of work done on it just before I got it... new brake shoes, new carb, new fuel pump..... and I am getting a decent spark at the plug. Of course, I understand that under the cylinder pressure, the resistance goes up and that's when the plug wires find a path of least resistance. but that's normally when the engine is running.
I don't really like 'troubleshooting' by changing parts until it runs... I'd rather actually test to see if something is actually bad before changing it However, at this point i am getting desperate and my 'principles' are going out the window! .... I have actually been considering getting a new set of plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. Haven't been able to get myself to do that yet, but I think I may be there now

[FarmerBill]

If you use a plant mister in the engine bay while some one cranks the engine you can see the sparks jump from the wires if they're bad. Just make sure there's no fuel leaks. Oh, and it helps if it's dark when you do it.

[BarryL]

Is your electric choke opening?

Can you shoot starting fluid in (or a thimble of gas drizzled) just to eliminate no fuel as a fault?

[chippuller]

FarmerBill,
I didn't spritz with gas, but the other night I went out and Cranked it over in pitch dark... no sign of arcing....still will probably get new rotor, cap and wires, since I am eventually going to go thru the engine anyway.
I'm really considering a Pertronix point eliminator, but would really like to understand what's going on first

[chippuller]

Barry,
Yup, the electric choke is opening... I have dribbled gas into the carb, used starting fluid, even dribbled gas directly into the intake manifold when I had the carb off to re-clean it. also squirted fuel in thru a spark plug hole......Pretty sure it is not a fuel issue....

[FarmerBill]

Don't spritz with gas! Sorry, if I was unclear, I mean use a plant mister filled with water.

[busdaddy]

Going back to post #1

[chippuller]

FarmerBill,
MY mistake .... I guess I didn't even think about it when I wrote that note, but I must have subconsciously realized that would be a really stupid thing for me to do Obviously water makes sense!
On the other hand, 4th of July is almost here, and that might be a little more exciting than sparklers

[chippuller]

Busdaddy,
all the plugs have been cleaned and gapped. As I mentioned, they do all 'spark' when out of cylinder and grounded, but the spark does seem to be a little on the weak side (a little bluish-yellow rather than a nice sharp blue).
Also, new gas (and gas tank )

[Wade]

Chip,
One other idea. Are you 1000% sure, like really, really sure, that your plug wires haven't gotten mixed up somehow? I know it seems unlikely, certainly almost impossible if the car literally stopped working without you having even touched them. But if you did remove them from the distributor or plugs, misrouting them would cause you to see spark when you test, but that spark wouldn't be firing at the right time for that specific cylinder.

Good luck with your investigation. You'll figure it out.

Regards,
-Wade

[chippuller]

Wade,
Yup, I rechecked the plug wire locations...several times .

Wade and everyone else who has offered suggestions here, I really appreciate your trying to help out!

I just finished pulling the distributor again. I took the points and condenser out, cleaned it out and degreased it with solvent, re-assembled it and with the distributor out I checked for continuity across the points with them open....no continuity. I reinstalled the distributor and reset the point gap and static timing. I even pulled the valve cover to make sure N0.1 cyl was on TDC on the compression stroke!...Nothing, Nada,.... (I had number 1 plug out, attached to the plug wire and was getting spark! Pulled the distributor cap and checked and I had continuity across the points Disconnected condenser wire at the coil and no continuity! replaced it and got continuity again I then pulled the distributor out, with everything connected and had no continuity across the open point....but as soon as I touched the distributor housing to the block I got continuity again
It seems like something in the distributor is grounding out.... but when I disconnect the condenser, with the distributor installed, the problem goes away, so it can't be the distributor!?!? I checked the condenser again and it is not shorted..... I just don't know what else to check

[busdaddy]

Good Gawd man!, stop obsessing over that continuity, it's normal and supposed to do that, if it didn't then you would have an issue.

You did say you got spark when cranking (although weak and orangeish), right?
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[chippuller]

Busdaddy,
Gee, I wish you'd have told me that sooner... would have save me a lot of "obsessing?
Yes that's right ... just a hint of blue in the yellow spark, I expect a darker blue and a crisp, loud "snap". Of course that's based on experience with 12 volt systems
Any suggestions as to what else to check?

[busdaddy]

Even a weakish spark should get it to fart and pop. We need three things for an engine to run, fuel, compression and spark, sounds like you have some spark, you've put fuel down the carb throat, how about compression?, done a valve adjustment?, tested the compression?
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[chippuller]

Busdaddy,
I hate to admit it, but I am still 'obsessing over the continuity issue .
I am certainly not challenging your statement...rather, I am just trying to figure out what I don't understand about the system. It's clear that I am not very good at reading schematics and wiring diagrams!
From what I understand, the points are acting like a switch, which interrupts the flow of current through the coil primary winding. The condenser merely prevents arcing across the points when they open, by diverting that excess flow of electricity to charging the condenser (a path of less resistance) but there is no continuity across the condenser...or is there?.
What I don't get, is how do you have continuity across a switch that is intended to 'break' a circuit... I have looked at a dozen wiring diagrams and youtube videos explaining how a distributor functions and do not see a current path across the points when they are open....but it's obviously there, 'cause I see it with my VOM!?!?
I'd really appreciate if you, or anyone else, can help me understand this. I'm sure it is probably very simple, but when it comes to electrical/electronic circuits, I am not very smart
Thanks again....................