I made some 40 stainless retaining plate shims. Have a look.

[airschooled]

[skills@eurocarsplus]

[ChipWrecked]

Thank you for the kind review. I'm glad they're meeting the need.

[skills@eurocarsplus]

[curtis4085]

Just bought me a set!!
_________________
Special Thanks to:
Headflow Masters - Vista, CA
www.headflowmasters.com

[obx71super]

Haven't used mine yet, but skills is right these things are purty! I'd be down to buy another set of need be! Also thanks from me as well, love buying quality, much appreciated!👍👌🍻
_________________
71 super auto stick basically original minus a couple resprays
73 Westy automatic with a 2 liter gex, soon to be a 1.8 liter Headflow masters
Newest Addition!! Solid straight 74 thing totally disassembled!! YEEEWWWW

[ChipWrecked]

A few packs of shims remain... If anyone is interested.

Now I'm threadjacking my own thread...

I'm having a new need, and in turn possibly a new product.
I was able to procure a NOS heat shield for my 72'. It's so off-the-shelf perfect that I'm reluctant to use it on my planned daily driver. So, instead of bolting it up, I took caliper measurements to make a few in stainless steel.

316L stainless in 0.030" (22g) for the body, and 18g for the hangers. The benefit of this type of SS is it's lower thermal conductance, high resistance to oxidation and chemicals (road salt), and most importantly - it's super sparkly shiny.

Now, the originals were internally lined with woven chrysotile, just like our late bay heat exchangers.

Since asbestos liner is out of the equation, I am leaning towards woven fiberglass blanket (like header wrap). The glass will be sandwiched b/w two SS sheets like the NOS design. I'll spot weld the hangers and then crimp the edges - which should be much better than the cheesy aftermarket ones that are out there. I am also tempted to replicate the bead roll that the OEM has. This adds rigidity I presume to keep the shield from flexing? But is it really necessary? The aftermarket ones lack this from what I can see.

More to come later...

[1975 Kombi]

I'm guessing as long as there is a space between the two sheets life is good. So anything that can withstand the heat and not react with the stainless would be a good choice.
_________________
Brett

“He’s decieving you boy! Reach into his pocket and take what he’s got.” Mr. Crabbs.

75 Westy auto
03 Jetta TDI
71 SB
74 Westy
Licensed pilot (single engine land VFR)
--
Rust In Pieces: 72 Bug, 73 Bug, 81 Rabbit LS D 2D, 83 Rabbit D 2D, 84 Jetta TD GL, 85 Jetta D, 68 Z28 RS 302, 91 Passat 16v

[Tcash]

Material for the heat exchangers where discussed in this thread.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7460708#7460708

Good Luck
Tcash

[skills@eurocarsplus]

[raygreenwood]

Also...as far as heat shields go......as one mentioned....having space between the panels is key.
In that respect....the fiberglass or rock wool (which is also excellent for this use) http://www.energyauditingblog.com/what-is-mineral-wool-rock-wool/
...is a good heat barrier and also a sound deadener because all of the little spaces inside the wool or fiberglass matting are zillions of little spaces where sound can bounce around until energy is spent (sound trap).

In that same vein.....getting something that creates both a spacer between the upper and lower parts of the shield....which helps to block heat....and arrests sound....can be done almost as well with expanded metal grid/sheet like this

https://www.google.com/search?q=galvanized+expande...B800%3B600

Another method that is used on many catalytic converter heat shields and downpipe manifold heat shields is to dimple one surface...top or bottom.....in a geometric pattern and and use a handful of those dimples...with a hole drilled through the sheet...as spot weld locations. The dimpled areas acct as heat reflectors as well and subdivides the inside area into zones.

This makes a superbly rigid triangulated construction that actually allows the use of thinner, lighter sheet on one side...is much more rigid than just two flat sheets welded together at the edges.....and in many cases allows actually leaving the outer perimeter edges open so that heat can flow through or out of the edges. It actually makes for a much better heat shield because its more difficult to saturate with heat all the way through because it has a method of dumping heat.

This is a product that works by this exact concept
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Shop-by-Brand/...ield-4-Ply

Something to think about. Ray

[ChipWrecked]

At the request of several members, more retaining plates have been made.

I can't recall all of the members that requested them, otherwise I would have PM'd you directly. This might come across as a shameless plug, but that's not really my style. Mods feel free to nuke this if it's sketchy. No worries.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1995576

_________________
"You're too retarded for a retard." Amskeptic

[VWRICK69]

I might have missed it, but do these fit the 71-72 or 73-79? Is there a difference. Are these still available? Thanks Rick
_________________
1969 CREWCAB and UHAUL camper

[ChipWrecked]

Version 2.0 available for a limited time.

They fit all ATE 71 through 79. No Girling.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2327400
_________________
"You're too retarded for a retard." Amskeptic

[uabscott]

I need shims for my 72 Ghia convertible Ate 8 2 pin pad type 1 calipers? Will this design work?

[NASkeet]

Until I clicked on the title out of idle curiosity, I had no idea that this topic thread was about disc-brake pad shims, for the 1971~79 VW Type 2. It might be usefull to include something to that effect in the title!

When my father bought our second-hand, early-1973-model-year, VW 1600 Type 2 Westfalia Continental motor-caravan, in January 1975, it had already covered about 29,000 miles since mid-November 1972.

At the next scheduled service-interval, it was "serviced" by ECTA Motors, the local franchised Volkswagen dealership, in Rochford, Essex, England; with whose quality of workmanship I was far from impressed!

Whether our vehicle was ever factory-fitted with brake-disc-pad shims I shall never know, but it certainly did NOT have any when I took over all maintenance & upgrade work on the vehicle just a few years later. I later made my own shims out of stainless-steel sheet off-cuts that I scrounged from somewhere, when I eventually learned that such things existed, but I I didn't include any features to ensure that the caliper-pistons could not rotate out of their correct orientation.

I often wonder what other factory-fitted parts might be missing from this vehicle!?! When my father and I later decided to substitute a VW Type 4 style air-cooled engine, we were unaware that it was supposed to have a left-hand, exhaust heat-exchanger & silencer (i.e. muffler in USA parlance) support bracket; an item I have yet to see on any of the few 1972~79 VW 17/18/2000 Type 2 engines in my part of the World!
_________________
Regards.

Nigel A. Skeet

Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.

Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper

Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)

http://www.vwt2oc.net

[airschooled]

Nigel, ATE or Girling?
_________________
Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com

[NASkeet]

[NASkeet]