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mgspeed Samba Member
Joined: June 11, 2021 Posts: 33 Location: Dallas
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Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 10:06 am Post subject: Type 4 engine seal replacement |
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Picking up a '72 Westy Tin Top on Friday! My last bus was the same model but with a T1 engine and that was 25 years ago.
I know that I want to replace the missing body to engine seal first. Since I'm new to the T4 world I'm wondering two things:
1) Is there a better/worse seal?
2) Can you replace the engine seal without removing the engine?
Looking at the engine removal process on https://ratwell.com/technical/EngineRemoval.html it looks like it's possible but possible doesn't always mean sensible.
Last edited by mgspeed on Wed Jun 23, 2021 10:15 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Xevin Samba Member
Joined: January 08, 2014 Posts: 7622
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Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 10:12 am Post subject: Re: Type 3 engine seal replacement |
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Might want to change this title to type4 engine seal. _________________ Keep on Busin'
67rustavenger wrote: |
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! |
Clatter wrote: |
Damn that Xevin... |
skills@eurocarsplus wrote: |
I respect Xevin and he's a turd |
SGKent wrote: |
My God! Xevin and I 100% agree |
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mgspeed Samba Member
Joined: June 11, 2021 Posts: 33 Location: Dallas
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Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 10:16 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine seal replacement |
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Xevin wrote: |
Might want to change this title to type4 engine seal. |
Doh! Head slap! |
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cmonSTART Samba Member
Joined: July 15, 2014 Posts: 1915 Location: NH
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Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 10:27 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine seal replacement |
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You can absolutely replace the seal with the engine installed - that's how it's designed. Rubber side goes down.
It's a pretty easy job. _________________ '78 Bus 2.0FI
de K1IGS |
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Daverham Samba Member
Joined: August 27, 2009 Posts: 1397 Location: USA
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Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 10:44 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine seal replacement |
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Just tuck it right in! |
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aeromech Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 16954 Location: San Diego, California
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Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 10:52 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine seal replacement |
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It can be tricky around the injectors if you have a fuel injected engine. I find one guy does the top and another helps from below using a long pair of needle nose pliers. Start at the firewall centerline and I usually go clockwise. _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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NASkeet Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2006 Posts: 2954 Location: South Benfleet, Essex, UK
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Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 11:15 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine seal replacement |
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It's the same engine-bay perimeter seal as for the 1972~79 VW 1600 Type 2, which can also be installed quite easily with the engine in place. _________________ Regards.
Nigel A. Skeet
Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.
Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper
Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)
http://www.vwt2oc.net |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50332
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Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 12:29 pm Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine seal replacement |
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When you someday pull the engine, first remove the seal and then mark the engine tin so you can trim it to give an even spacing all the way around. The seal will then go in with less effort and not be as damaged by time.
This is the right rear corner of my nicely trimmed engine tin, the gap is probably twice as wide as it was originally:
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mgspeed Samba Member
Joined: June 11, 2021 Posts: 33 Location: Dallas
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Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 1:43 pm Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine seal replacement |
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Thanks everyone! |
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my59 Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2003 Posts: 3789 Location: connecting the dots
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Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2021 11:48 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine seal replacement |
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Old seals soaked with oil near the oil fill can be a fire hazard.
Let's not discuss how I know this. _________________ my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget. |
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NASkeet Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2006 Posts: 2954 Location: South Benfleet, Essex, UK
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Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2021 11:39 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine seal replacement |
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Wildthings wrote: |
When you someday pull the engine, first remove the seal and then mark the engine tin so you can trim it to give an even spacing all the way around. The seal will then go in with less effort and not be as damaged by time.
This is the right rear corner of my nicely trimmed engine tin, the gap is probably twice as wide as it was originally:
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What is the purpose of that white-spigot and small-bore black hose, on the oil-filler cap? I have never seen its like before!
I am also wondering about the supplementary Earth / Ground cable to the aluminium cooling-fan shroud and the strange looking green connection on the right hand side? _________________ Regards.
Nigel A. Skeet
Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.
Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper
Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)
http://www.vwt2oc.net |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50332
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Posted: Fri Jul 02, 2021 5:52 pm Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine seal replacement |
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NASkeet wrote: |
Wildthings wrote: |
When you someday pull the engine, first remove the seal and then mark the engine tin so you can trim it to give an even spacing all the way around. The seal will then go in with less effort and not be as damaged by time.
This is the right rear corner of my nicely trimmed engine tin, the gap is probably twice as wide as it was originally:
|
What is the purpose of that white-spigot and small-bore black hose, on the oil-filler cap? I have never seen its like before!
I am also wondering about the supplementary Earth / Ground cable to the aluminium cooling-fan shroud and the strange looking green connection on the right hand side? |
I take air off the fan shroud, run it through a filter and feed it into the crankcase. The fresh air keeps the humidity within the crankcase lower so there is no build up of condensate even during the coldest weather I drive in. Been doing this on my VW aircooled engines for nearly 45 years. Originally saw an article on doing so in some VW specific publication. The small size of the white fitting acts as a restrictor to keep the volume of added air low so you don't start blowing oil out of the crankcase. The system if pretty maintenance free, just a new filter every 50-100K miles. |
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NASkeet Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2006 Posts: 2954 Location: South Benfleet, Essex, UK
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Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2021 10:45 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine seal replacement |
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Wildthings wrote: |
NASkeet wrote: |
Wildthings wrote: |
When you someday pull the engine, first remove the seal and then mark the engine tin so you can trim it to give an even spacing all the way around. The seal will then go in with less effort and not be as damaged by time.
This is the right rear corner of my nicely trimmed engine tin, the gap is probably twice as wide as it was originally:
|
What is the purpose of that white-spigot and small-bore black hose, on the oil-filler cap? I have never seen its like before!
I am also wondering about the supplementary Earth / Ground cable to the aluminium cooling-fan shroud and the strange looking green connection on the right hand side? |
I take air off the fan shroud, run it through a filter and feed it into the crankcase. The fresh air keeps the humidity within the crankcase lower so there is no build up of condensate even during the coldest weather I drive in. Been doing this on my VW aircooled engines for nearly 45 years. Originally saw an article on doing so in some VW specific publication. The small size of the white fitting acts as a restrictor to keep the volume of added air low so you don't start blowing oil out of the crankcase. The system if pretty maintenance free, just a new filter every 50-100K miles. |
I think this might be similar in principle to the PCV system that is used on the VW 411/412LE engine. _________________ Regards.
Nigel A. Skeet
Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.
Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper
Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)
http://www.vwt2oc.net |
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