Author |
Message |
raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 21520 Location: Oklahoma City
|
Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2021 7:23 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
orwell84 wrote: |
RWK wrote: |
Guess it depends on how deep they drilled, based on my quick measurement you can tap (for 1/4 npt) up to 50mm deep before you get too close to lifter bore, I would not go deeper with 3/8 tap there may not be enough wall stock deeper in, idk, the boss on the outside IS big enough for 3/8. VW cast it so they could put there style plug there.
If your tap drilled hole is deeper then 25-30 mm then you could go deeper with tap and seal PAST the rod bore, but then you will lose your sealing at the outside, ( tap will oversize it there because it's taper gets larger as you go deeper) pipe taper sealing usually takes place on only a portion of the plugs length depending on how it was tapped.
I would say if they drilled it too deep you cannot go the 1/4 npt route, and leave it as it is.
I have used green sleeve retainer (the hi temp one) locktite to seal pipe plugs, fills the voids created by less then desirable tapping conditions, i.e hand drilled inaccurate holes, crooked tapping, unable to apply enough torque, ect. most of the teflon sealers will reduce friction allowing plug to over torque sometimes cracking the weak cast case. |
Ok thank you. I figured there was a reason they only tapped so far. I get it. Pipe taps are short and tapered.
I think I’m good with what I’ve worked out so far. I will just have to make sure I peen so the set screw can’t back out. The 3/8 gallery plug is a good fit. Thanks for the tip on the sleeve retainer. |
Pipe taps are only tapered....if they are NPT taps. You can use an NPS tap for working down in the bore (national pipe straight).....and just leave the tapered portion for the outside sealing area. Ray |
|
Back to top |
|
|
orwell84 Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 2539 Location: Plattsburgh, New York
|
Posted: Wed Mar 24, 2021 6:10 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
This is how I ended up doing this. I didn’t like the idea of peening so close to the cam bearing in the cam side of the case or just holding the set screw in with goop or tapping deep inside the case.
So I tapped the fuel pump pushrod bore the rest of the way through and notched a longer set screw.
I made sure there was enough room for the gallery plug with a little bit of extra room.
I also notched the fuel pump end of the set screw so it could be removed/installed from either side.
The gallery plug prevents the set screw from backing out in either direction, though the screw can be turned in either direction a little before it contacts the gallery plug.
The set screw can’t go anywhere. I didn’t use any sealant except some loctite 565 on the gallery plug. If a little oil leaks through the threads of the set screw, it’s no big deal. For sure there are more correct machinist methods to get this done, but this is what I could manage with my current skill set. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
orwell84 Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 2539 Location: Plattsburgh, New York
|
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2021 10:30 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
Just about ready to put the shortblock together. A couple quick questions.
The suction tube I have had a hole in it for attaching it to a wind age tray my engine doesn’t have. I’m assuming leaving the hole as is will not be a problem. It is the correct longer version for my case.
Also, I am trying to figure out where the metal sealing washers go for the case bolt that goes through the loop on the oil strainer bell thing. I haven’t been able to find any info or photos. The fiche is a bit confusing.
Thanks |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Clatter Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003 Posts: 7549 Location: Santa Cruz
|
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2021 4:46 pm Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
Put a bolt in that hole in the bell for the windage tray.
Otherwise it can suck bubbles like a bong and aerate the oil.
One washer - the only M8 copper (bronze?) washer in the gasket set,
Goes under the head of the long bolt thru the bell hanger eye.
I like some 518 on that sucker for good measure.
Sux to clean off if you ever havta, though.. _________________ Bus Motor Build
What’s That Noise?!? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
orwell84 Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 2539 Location: Plattsburgh, New York
|
Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2021 7:09 pm Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
Clatter wrote: |
Put a bolt in that hole in the bell for the windage tray.
Otherwise it can suck bubbles like a bong and aerate the oil.
One washer - the only M8 copper (bronze?) washer in the gasket set,
Goes under the head of the long bolt thru the bell hanger eye.
I like some 518 on that sucker for good measure.
Sux to clean off if you ever havta, though.. |
Case is together. Figured out the copper washer but not the bolt for the hole in the strainer bell. Oops. I should still be able to put one in. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
orwell84 Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 2539 Location: Plattsburgh, New York
|
Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2021 10:07 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
I finally got a window of somewhat uninterrupted time to put the case together. It’s been sitting on the desk for awhile with everything all ready to go. It probably took a solid 3 hours with last minute cleaning, etc. As well as I had set up and planned, there are always parts, tools and materials that get misplaced in the process. There’s always a moment when things feel like they are about to go tits up...case half got hung up and wouldn’t go together. It turned out to be the oil pump pickup shifted and those new plastic dampeners. Not to panic and start flailing... a little jiggling and it fell into place. Aaah...It’s a beautiful thing.
It all seems to turn smoothly with that draggy, sticky assembly lube feeling. It would turn more easily with motor oil or a thinner lube but in the time it takes me to finish an engine it would run off and seep down into the earth’s crust to become a dead dinosaur again. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
orwell84 Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 2539 Location: Plattsburgh, New York
|
Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2021 2:57 pm Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
Starting to get down to the last few things before buttoning this up.
Set up the end play and measured the deck height.
I was happy with how evenly it came out.
As usual, once I button up the case, I find something I wish I had checked. I have read just about everything I could find on cam bolt oil pump clearance. Never gave much thought about what the bolts were doing on the other side. Sure enough while reading up on random stuff, I found the only guy ever that had the cam bolt threads and the case.
Here is the guy’s case
Here is my case
This is the first and only time I have seen this mentioned. If I had seen this before, I would have ground off the bolt threads on the other side and or at least checked the clearance with the case. I am using the button bolts with the recessed holes in the gear.
Anybody ever have issues with cam bolts fouling on the case? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 21520 Location: Oklahoma City
|
Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2021 7:03 pm Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
orwell84 wrote: |
Starting to get down to the last few things before buttoning this up.
Set up the end play and measured the deck height.
I was happy with how evenly it came out.
As usual, once I button up the case, I find something I wish I had checked. I have read just about everything I could find on cam bolt oil pump clearance. Never gave much thought about what the bolts were doing on the other side. Sure enough while reading up on random stuff, I found the only guy ever that had the cam bolt threads and the case.
Here is the guy’s case
Here is my case
This is the first and only time I have seen this mentioned. If I had seen this before, I would have ground off the bolt threads on the other side and or at least checked the clearance with the case. I am using the button bolts with the recessed holes in the gear.
Anybody ever have issues with cam bolts fouling on the case? |
...but they can get close when you get rid of those star washers which I do not like. So yes...you have to look at the other side.
Ray
I have not had the issue with teh bolts that Webcam sends with the cam |
|
Back to top |
|
|
RWK Samba Member
Joined: June 24, 2009 Posts: 1349 Location: S.W. MI
|
Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2021 3:46 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
You can grind them down just above flush, then peen the edge of bolt near the thread so they don't loosen up, kind of like the rivet factory used. No lock washer or locktite needed then. _________________ 73 Type 181
63 Type 113
63 Type 261- 428 071
62 Type 241-378 025 178 530 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
orwell84 Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 2539 Location: Plattsburgh, New York
|
Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2021 5:11 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
Does anyone have one of those aftermarket cam gears with the recessed holes kicking around that could tell me the depth the holes are recessed? I could check with my other web camshaft and button bolts on my old case. The other gear I have does not have recessed holes. Or I could look inside the case with one of those cheap camera boroscopes.
The couple people I read about having this problem were building 914 engines and bolting a stock gear to an aftermarket cam.
Sigh...or I could just take it apart and clearance the bolts like Clatter mentioned about 5 pages ago. Not the first time that a case has to come apart after getting all cooped up and put together.
Don’t know how I missed it. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
orwell84 Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 2539 Location: Plattsburgh, New York
|
Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2021 10:25 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
Finally...
I ended up taking apart the case to clearance the back of the cam bolts. They were fine as is but it was worth the peace of mind. I was also less heavy handed on the case sealant.
Last potential gotcha is valve geometry but as this engine is very close to stock, I’m not anticipating any surprises. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
orwell84 Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 2539 Location: Plattsburgh, New York
|
Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2021 6:39 pm Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
Making some more progress:
Making some new heat shields for the insides of the heat exchangers.
More bits going on the engine. The engine stand makes this so much easier.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
orwell84 Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 2539 Location: Plattsburgh, New York
|
Posted: Thu Jun 24, 2021 11:08 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
Moving along...
Heat exchangers are finally together. What an ass ache. They required some spot welds along the crimps and some creative welding to make them seal at the places I just had to guess at what was there before it rusted away.
My blast cabinet has paid for itself. Original heater bits ready for paint.
Last thing: figured out how to do a bubble flare. It took me awhile. I tried pre-made brake lines but they don’t come in convenient lengths. A bit more f a learning curve, but worth it in the long run.
Hoping to install the engine next week.
Thanks for reading along. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Muthashabubu Samba Member
Joined: March 21, 2008 Posts: 444 Location: SW Ohio
|
Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2021 1:01 pm Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
Looking good!
Enjoyed your heater box rebuilds, pictures are very helpful.
Thanks for keeping up with your thread! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
orwell84 Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 2539 Location: Plattsburgh, New York
|
Posted: Thu Jul 01, 2021 10:06 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
Longblock has been assembled for weeks now but I’m deep in the details of the endless everything else. New CV boots, brake lines, starter, cables...
Madly cleaning, blasting and painting assorted tinware, manifolds, etc
New to me booster fan.
I’ll get there... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
orwell84 Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 2539 Location: Plattsburgh, New York
|
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2021 5:58 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
I hope to be showing pics of my installed engine soon. A friend of mine is coming over from Vermont to help me install the engine and hopefully get it running with the original dual carbs. It’s mostly a straightforward engine assembly at this point but doing the heat exchangers took a long time as well as making/repairing the brackets that hold them. Little snags like that and hunting down missing widgets slows me down. So many little bits have gone missing over the years but I’m determined to do it right this time.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
orwell84 Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 2539 Location: Plattsburgh, New York
|
Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2021 6:10 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
Still at it. A friend came over and gave a big hand making sure the distributor drive gear was properly aligned, valves adjusted, checking the heater boxes to heads sealing and lots of other stuff. A few odds and ends to take care of and it goes back in the bus.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 21520 Location: Oklahoma City
|
Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2021 9:55 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
Very nice!
What did you paint/coat your shroud with?
Thank you in advance! Ray |
|
Back to top |
|
|
orwell84 Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 2539 Location: Plattsburgh, New York
|
Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2021 10:29 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
raygreenwood wrote: |
Very nice!
What did you paint/coat your shroud with?
Thank you in advance! Ray |
Years ago, I sandblasted and buffed out the fan shroud thinking that it was aluminum. Of course, it doesn’t stay like that but it does look decent and stay clean for quite awhile. It doesn’t take long to shine it up again with a little polish which is still way easier than removing some hard as nails coating that gets beat up anyway and doing it all over again. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
orwell84 Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 2539 Location: Plattsburgh, New York
|
Posted: Thu Aug 05, 2021 6:25 am Post subject: Re: Type 4 engine rebuild: take 3 |
|
|
Just about there. Down to fuel lines, air lines and the last of the wiring. I replaced a lot of the wiring harness front to back. The engine went in surprisingly easily this time around.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
|