1992 Eurovan Westfalia Running Issues

[GreatWhiteNorth]

Greetings, I am new to this forum. Recently I purchased a 1992 Canadian edition Eurovan Westphalia. It does not run well when cold (runs rich and idle hard to stabilize without keeping my foot on the accelerator keeping the engine at 1000RPM or it does and runs ok when hot but stumbles running at 800rpm intermittently.. It has been in the shop here and they are at thier wits end. Each sensor reports back OK. They replaced the ECU relay. No dice.
They think it is a bad ECU but have not replaced it. They also mention a microsquirt/megasquirt as a $2500 Canadian option ( http://megasquirt.info/products/pro-controllers/microsquirt/ ). Whew!
Would it be better to just buy a refurbished ECU and hope for the best ( https://www.autoecmstore.com/products/023906022e ) ?
Getting it towed home tomorrow as the shop has had it 4 weeks now and no headway. There is also a shop in Germany that rebuilds your ECU: https://ecu.eu/vw-%28volkswagen%29/engine-control-...04678.html
what are your thoughts ?

[BatesEV]

Greetings. Before jumping to the ECU check a couple things. So most common thing to start with is the blue coolant sensor which I’m sure they did. If the cold start injector is stuck open it can flood the engine. That line could be clamped closed. I’m sure they attempted to set the idle and timing. These vans are very difficult to do if you don’t know what your doing.

Ok now the ECU part. I had my MAP sensor fail after buying my van. Took months to get it running and on its maiden voyage the fuel pressure regulator failed and killed the MAP sensor and caused all what you described. It’s not hard to change if you know how to solder. The part is 30 dollars and there is a post where someone just bought one and did a DIY.

But before you go changing the sensor make sure the vacuum line is good. Pull a vacuum on the line from the source(engine) connection and make sure it holds. If the line internally in the ECU failed it will not sense vacuum. The reason that is important is because the computer uses that to determine load on the engine. 0 inHg means full throttle and heavy load.

Hope some of this info helps you. Feel free to ask anything as I’ve done it all personally on the 2.5

[GreatWhiteNorth]

Thank you for your reply. Much appreciated!

The shop checked the temperature sensor. It's OK. ICV fuse blows. No sure why.
Swapping the ICV makes no change but a new fuse did. Fuel pressure regulator is interesting. Not checked. I am going to ask them...I don't think they checked the MAP sensor which would be on the ECU.
Current codes:

oxygen sensor (checked by unplugging and is ok?)
coolant sensor (Swapped out, no difference)
Throttle Position Sensor (used one swapped in, no difference)

No matter what you change it does not change much according to the shop.
It now starts and runs just is anemic. No longer rich. I replaced the vacuum lines from the ECU myself. New plugs, cap. rotor and wires. Plugs were worn but worn evenly on all cylinders.

[BatesEV]

Well the power steering sensor, cold start injector, evap solenoid, and ICV are on the same fuse. I know my steering sensor harness has been repaired. See if this helps isolate. Thanks for the fuse info

[BatesEV]

Here is some good basic info on the system. Basically if 1 of the 10 sensors/switches don’t work the system will run rich. It’s a good read. I have a more detailed version to.

https://vweurovan.fandom.com/wiki/Digifant_Ignition_Basics

[GreatWhiteNorth]

Thank you for all the fantastic information. I really appreciated it. Well I told the garage to go ahead with maintenance - timing belt and associated tensioners and rollers and the serpentine belt with tensioner and idler.
Got a good news call - the Eurovan runs 110% perfect! apparently the timing belt was off by 5-7 teeth. Not sure how it can run that far out and the no codes to that issue. So now no codes and it runs like brand new. WHEW!
Who knew? Can you believe it? No need for an ECU rebuilt or anything else other than proper maintenance it just never received with the previous owner other than an engine oil/filer change.
It's getting hard to find mechanics up here for the van's.
Now on to Propane replacement and a good shampoo of the interior. Woohoo!

[GreatWhiteNorth]

[GreatWhiteNorth]

[BatesEV]

Your very welcome. And thank you for the confirmed update. So many times you wonder what the fix is. Like yesterday I searched for hours for a Canadian resource air board memo about the 500 ohm resistor to change the IAT reading to improve emissions. Had to give up.

[GreatWhiteNorth]

[Abscate]

[BatesEV]

So you know what I was referencing. I tried it and the vehicle felt better and didn’t seem to have that rich smell after lots of hills. Initial check IAT went from 36c to 27c