1964 Bug Chasis with 1971 engine??

[napgonz]

Hi all,

Doing some research. Trying to work on my recently purchased bug but like most of them, it has been modified. Don't know if I'm doing this right but here it goes. What are some interchangeable parts for chasis years and engine years?

Let me know if this makes sense.

Thank you.

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

Car is a March 1964.

Numbers in the Samba list are the LAST produced for a given month. (Read the top of the number page)

Most body and chassis parts are interchangeable 1958 - 1964 model years

Engine number only indicates what it once was.. Who knows whats inside.

If it runs .. use it.

.
_________________
aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
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Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
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Usually and often edited

[napgonz]

Thank you again for taking the time reply.

😁

[mukluk]

Getting into specifics to answer your question would require a very large and in-depth post, especially so if one is looking for differentiating between what is "correct" and what can be made to fit or work. You can get a bit of a feel for things however, if you look through the catalogue of offerings from parts suppliers and see what they show for what years/models the parts fit. If further verification or information is wanted for specific items you're concerned with, a post on this forum will typically result in somebody offering up an answer.

Welcome to the madness.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[glutamodo]

From one picture I can tell a lot of things. First of a, a D088 engine would not have had an alternator on it from the factory. Yours does. It also would not have "nylock" style nuts on the alternator stand. Yours does.

So basically, just throw out the rulebook. VW D-series blocks made from model year 70 to 78 were easy to re-build into a 1600 at rebuild time. So you really need to show more than you have here for any kind assessment as to what your engine has become over the decades since it was new.
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Andy T.


IMAGE NOTE: It has been noted that Chrome based browsers may have issues in displaying my vast image library, which use non-secure links and are on an FTP server. Images should still be viewable if the link is clicked though.
I do not know how to fix this. All I can say is it all works fine for me with what I use, Firefox.

[napgonz]

Wow! So it’s pretty much a frankinengine 😆. I’m fairly new so thank you all for sharing your knowledge.

Thank you all!

[napgonz]

I don’t know if this view tells more. They guy that sold it tomme said it was single port but I found that is more like a dual
Port.

[glutamodo]

it's dual port. Like I said, just going by D088 means nothing any more.

A D series engine was installed in a factory produced vehichle with single port engine measuring 1192 cubic centimeters. What you have now is NOT that.

And it's missing some form of rear engine tinware. You should never be able to actually see the metal cooling fins of the cylinders. Ducting should be in place to route the air cooling of
_________________
Andy T.


IMAGE NOTE: It has been noted that Chrome based browsers may have issues in displaying my vast image library, which use non-secure links and are on an FTP server. Images should still be viewable if the link is clicked though.
I do not know how to fix this. All I can say is it all works fine for me with what I use, Firefox.

[napgonz]

Got it. I will have to learn all of the vw engine lingo, I’m excited about this. Today I was able to make the horn work and it felt like a huge accomplishment due to the fact that I don’t know too much 😅.

[cbeck]

You are missing several cooling tins. You should not see the ground thru your engine compartment. Show some more pics above and below and somebody will clue you in on what is missing. Have to seperate the hot and cool air. Would not surprise me if you are also missing flaps and thermostat.
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My cut in half and rebuild thread
www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=647779

[napgonz]

Yes, so far I’ve got the one on the picture. I’m missing some from the bottom (I’ll post pics later).

I’m ordering the gaskets that cover the engine area.

[napgonz]

I know I will have to cover the holes

[Sharp64]

That rear piece is most often referred to as a “breastplate”. Since you don’t have fresh air ducts for the heater boxes, they make one that doesn’t have the holes in it. As mentioned, you shouldn’t be able to see the ground or beneath the car from the engine compartment. Right now, you are sucking air that is going across your exhaust which is preheating the air. Plug the holes. It’s also going g to be ALOT easier to replace the engine seal with the engine out. It’s literally a few wires and 4 bolts. It’s intimidating, but something most VW owners that plan on doing their own repairs should be able to do.

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D6217
_________________
1960 Indigo Blue Ragtop (Blue Barry)
1967 Ghia
1985 Westy Money Pit
“...some men aren't looking for anything logical, like money. They can't be bought, bullied, reasoned, or negotiated with. Some men just want to watch the world burn.” - Michael Caine

[napgonz]

Yes, i saw a video on YouTube by a popular vw guy named Vallone and he suggests doing it with the engine out but says it’s possible but very hard to do it with the engine on. He kind of shows how to do it.

Definitely I will have eventually learn all these things.

[Sharp64]

[napgonz]

Thanks for the knowledge sharing, recommendations and tips.

[67rustavenger]

[napgonz]

Thank you all. I feel like I'm going somewhere now with all the feedback.

Yes, one of the reasons I was on the search for the correct or at least an idea of the year for the engine and chassis so when ordering I can specify the year.

I'll be posting a few more pics. If anyone can comment I appreciate your time for doing it.

thanks!

[napgonz]

Some more pics of my 64 bug

[Rome]

Your poor engine was assembled by a shlockmeister. There are so many deviations from factory designs per either missing parts, poorly fitting aftermarket parts, and bad build techniques that it's life has probably been considerably shortened.

1. Your engine seal: Yes, you can struggle to install the rubber seal which is "best" done by removing the engine. However, there is a valid alternative seal which you can install without removing the engine. It's the foam seal from a VW bus. It's about 4x more expensive than the rubber seal, but the time saved with not removing the engine vastly outweighs the cost. Here's a shot (Tom Donahoe gallery) of the seal in a later Beetle. I've also installed this seal in my '77 Beetle because the metal retaining channel for the rubber seal has partly rusted away. It works well. Install your breast plate first, then fit the seal into the gap. The seal has an "H"-shaped profile. Turn the seal sideways so that the open ends of the "H" are oriented sideways and fit over the edge/lip of the breast plate. Use a thin wooden or plastic tool such as a paint stirring stick to push the seal down.

2. In your "below" shot of your engine, 4 things.
2a. The muffler on the right side of the engine is known as a "hideaway". When you get ready to adjust your engine valves- the sooner the better- which is part of VW ownership, you'll need to remove the 3 bolts that hold the muffler to the triangular flange on the "header". That will enable you to take the muffler away to provide access to the right valve cover. There will likely also be another fastening method/support on the muffler body itself that either goes to the body, or to the engine. That will also need to be removed.

2b. Looking frontwards, you see two round open pipes. Those are for when your engine would have heater boxes (yours does not) and the heat for the interior goes to the body at those pipes via a plastic corrugated "bellows". I recommend closing them off so that critters don't get in there. You can go to the home center and buy some black rubber plumbing end caps and fasten them to the pipes using hose clamps.

2c. Do not crawl under the car when it's supported only by the floor jack. Buy a decent pair of metal jack stands- 1 ton capacity is all you need. Place one on each side of the rear torsion bar crosspipe close to where you have the jack supported now; one per side of the car.

2d. To change your engine oil, you start with removing the large bolt at the bottom of the engine that's in the center of the round plate. Should be the same size wrench or socket as the alternator pulley bolt. Before you change the oil, and after you adjust the valves (done when the engine is stone cold and not run), warm the engine up by running it for about 10 minutes. Buy a can of engine degreaser and spray it onto the underside of the engine to remove much of that greasy dirt. You spray off the degreaser with a garden hose spray nozzle (if you have a pressure washer, even better).

3. As already noted, your engine was originally built as a 34 hp (DIN rating; would be 40 hp SAE) unit which had approx. 1200 cc cylinder volume. That particular engine was never officially installed on any VW for the US market. However, the engine case itself can accept various larger cylinder sizes and cylinder heads. Your engine has been assembled with dual-port heads.

4. Your engine originally would've had a mechanical fuel pump, located to the right of the distributor. On your engine the pump has been removed, and replaced with a block-off plate. This means the fuel gets to your carburetor using an electric pump, located "upstream" of the engine. It's worth your time to check where this pump is in case you need to inspect the quality of the fuel hoses that attach to the pump. Usually such pumps are located near the front of the car around the gas tank. You can lift up the front of your car with the floor jack, turn the wheels to the right, then shine a flashlight inwards past the right front wheel to look at the fuel lines. The fuel pump is either a small squarish piece with rubber fuel lines going to it, as well as an electrical wire; or a round "canister" shaped pump. If you intend to reach into the wheelwell to touch the pump or the hoses, first support the front of the car with your 2 jackstands placed under the front axle beam pipes.

5. The carburetor is one for an earlier engine than what would've been on dual-port engines. The carb mounts to the metal intake manifold that guides the fuel mixture to the left and right cylinder heads. There are two small-diameter metal pipes that come off the manifold and go rearwards at an angle to the exhaust. Those are the "preheat" pipes. In normal operation they are connected/bolted to the exhaust pipe so that heat from the exhaust passes through the preheat pipes and heats up the manifold. The heat goes up the metal manifold to the curved stem on which the carb is mounted. This heat raises the temperature of the stem so that fuel does not cool down from its speed (basic physics) and cause condensation to form on the outside of the pipe.

Your preheat pipes are not bolted to the muffler. It's likely that the aftermarket muffler (actually the header I mentioned above) is also not drilled for the exhaust air to pass into the pipes... so if you drive the engine after you fit your rear breast plate and the perimeter air seal and see condensation water droplets form on that pipe especially on a humid day, you'll know why.

6. Your fan shroud, which is the big semicircular metal housing to which the front of the alternator is attached, is a low-quality aftermarket unit that has no provisions for interior heat. It also has no welded nuts in the upper left quadrant of the rear face onto which you could mount the ignition coil. No need to try to correct this at moment; just know that it's not a genuine factory part.

7. In addition to the rear breast plate, you are also missing 2 small cooling tins that fit to the rear of the cylinders. If you find some used (not made new) you can fit them with the engine in place, before installing that breast plate. This is how they look (APPLEGREENVW gallery)- the upper one goes to the left side of the engine. Fitting these small tins, the rear breast plate with its 2 large holes covered, and the perimeter seal will go a long way to end up with a cooler-running engine.

I have more comments, but this is enough to start.