stumped on choosing paint brand/line

[Chickensoup]

Hi yall, im feeling a bit lazy so imma just paste from my other thread. thought it would be better here anyways. thanks

"Warning! blabering ahead!

no updates or progress to be posted. school starts up soon and by the time i get back home all ill have time for is just cleaning up the shop and fixing a few things on my passat.

I havent been thinking much about the car lately to be honest, but ive made the shopping cart for rubber seals for the body, the heater channel, headlight hardware, etc. meaning, once i finish the body work, i need to prepared for paint.

I know what type of paint and color i want. base coat clear coat, porsche aquamarine blue non metallic.

Ive already got the gun (decent HVLP), giant air compressor, filter, and then the small consumables pieces imma just have to buy later. And for the icing on the cake, ive got access to a friends paint booth. just need to help him seal the bottoms of the side panels.


ok enough w/ the boring stuff. I did decide to write today, because i have a question.

I will be laying down the paint myself which saves some money of course, but i would like to find a middle of the road quality paint line that doesnt coast a kidney and my wee wee.

let me help you to help me. im rhino coating the underside of my car, engine compartment, trunk, fire wall, and luggage tray. So i wont be using as much paint as usual.

like i said im wanting to do a basecoat clearcoat system. How many gallons should i need of each?

Primer?
sealer?
Top coat?
clear coat?

what kinds of paint are the upper class car brands using these days? any suggestions would be much appreciated.

thanks"
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-'85 c10 5.3 LS, cam, heads, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'01 e46 325ci *tree modded
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP

[67ctbug]

Hahaha upper class car brands, it’s all junk paint the cheaper the paint they use, the more profit they make. I’ve read recently that some OEMs are even using 1K non activated clear coats now and just baking them. They don’t paint under the car, they don’t paint the trunks, they barely paint under the hoods and lids. I wouldn’t buy any paint until you finish bodywork, but I’ll break it down for you. I’d count at least a gallon of primer. Then inside and out, maybe 1-2 gallons of base. I used 2 gallons of single stage on mine inside and out. Sealer is optional, some guys use it some don’t. It’s an extra opportunity for dirt and orange peel. Your last coat is only as good as the ones before it. Clear coat probably 1-1.5 gallons. Paint goes up every year. Cheap paint is cheap paint. It’s thin, color match may not be 100%. I’ve heard good things about Tamco, I like Limco, I uses RM Diamont at work but that’s $$$$. PPG Omni is like water but gets it done after enough coats. But like I said, do the bodywork first, and when you’re done with the plastic work, put a polyester glaze over it to eliminate the pinholes.
_________________
'67 Beetle L41
'74 Westfalia
'69 Plymouth "Adam-12"
'63 Ragtop
'73 914
'72 Dodge Wrecker
Go Cubs!
World Series Champions 2016

[Mike Fisher]

Buy everything at your local Paint Supplies, so you can do test sprays to check your color & technique.
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https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey

[67ctbug]

Yeah what Mike said, and be friendly with them and they might give you stuff if they're feeling generous.
_________________
'67 Beetle L41
'74 Westfalia
'69 Plymouth "Adam-12"
'63 Ragtop
'73 914
'72 Dodge Wrecker
Go Cubs!
World Series Champions 2016

[Braukuche]

I like TCP Global Restoration Shop line single stage. It’s about the same price as Omni but much better quality. Coverage is much better, has more depth to it.
_________________
Go Reds! Smash state!

Retirement is here!
1960 double cab
1960 Baja Bug
1963 stretched double cab
1962 Golde sunroof Ghia
1963 356 B coupe
1963 Notchback
1967 21 window less rusty now
1989 Westfalia

[2type2]

My .02 says go with TPC also. Clearcoat isn't for old cars.
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"A life of peace and happiness depends on your own gratefulness"

[evanfrucht]

I'm late to the game but this is a no brainer

I highly advice you do NOT use base/clear! Single stage will look better and age better. Ok, I said my piece there... I'll move on.

SPI brand EPOXY PRIMER, and their 2k is also good as a filler primer. Their 2k high build is extremely high build, and not neccesary in my book. They are a small family run company and you get free next day shipping if you order through them or any of their suppliers. Check the rest of the internet. Everyone loves SPI Epoxy, it has raving reviews all over. It's very affordable too, prices are on website https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/epoxy-primer

I use Evercoat Rage gold as my filler of choice, when needed. 3M Platinum/Plus line is another decent option.

Paint. I would never use base/clear on a vintage car, or any metallic other than original. I prefer single stage paint. So, if I was on a budget I would shoot it with TCP Global Restoration Shop series single stage urethane.

Their are slightly better options for more money but honestly the TCP global stuff shoots and looks really nice. Very full of color, high solids content, you don't need to shoot half a dozen coats like other really cheap watered down brands.

I've also had good luck with Valspar TB550 2K industrial polyurethane.

Any quality caltalized urethane should work well.

If you want a fancier metallic or candy type thing House of Kolor is well regarded and not super expensive.

A gallon of each is more than enough to shoot a whole Bug twice.
_________________
1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )

[Chickensoup]

I see... ok, so maybe single stage is a better option. Everyone seems to say so. I thought 2 stage would be better being that's all that's used on new cars these days but I learned it's mainly because of the voc issues and the epa regulations.

I still cant find a bad review on tamco. Heres what I'm thinking.

And then I'm not sure how much better the second option is. Twice as much and used in salt water.

_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, cam, heads, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'01 e46 325ci *tree modded
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP

[evanfrucht]

If I was going with them I'd get their "DTA Epoxy" and "Duraflint II Single Stage" and have them make the color you want. If you are unsure and want to spend less money then check out SPI Epoxy and TCP Restoration Shop line in SS urethane.

One thing I really like about the SPI is it's very nice to sand and has a high solid content so it acts as a bit like a filler primer when you spray it on thick. Or you can use it as a DTM sealer too. I know that from first hand experience but can't say what the Tamco will behave like.

That's all you should need but get some filler too. You want a good filler so it's easy to sand, feather out, block out roof and doors and such. I like the Rage Ultra. You'll want a gallon of that, 95% will end up as dust on the floor.

Also get some of the nice reusable made in USA metal filler spreaders. They make extra wide ones which are good if your are actually doing a whole car, which you are.

Start collecting an assortment of different body hammers and dollys if you haven't already

Have fun!
_________________
1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )

[skills@eurocarsplus]

buy cheap paint then buy expensive paint. let me know which works out better.

single stage takes FOREVER to dry if you can't bake it. you can literally handle base/clear in an hour.

cheap paint once reduced for spaying has shit coverage..so you'll use more of it than you would a good paint.

i was a dupont chroma guy forever.... then found sikkens/akzo nobel. the difference was night and day

i'll never use cheap paint again.
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[evanfrucht]

[67ctbug]

I would dare say that clear coat is just clear single stage
_________________
'67 Beetle L41
'74 Westfalia
'69 Plymouth "Adam-12"
'63 Ragtop
'73 914
'72 Dodge Wrecker
Go Cubs!
World Series Champions 2016

[skills@eurocarsplus]

[Braukuche]

[Chickensoup]

thanks for the help guys. ive decided on going with the tamco duraflint 2 SS. just got a price and or a gallon kit of color, its only 300 and something shipped. and 240 ish if you want black, white, or red.

the car will be taken down to bare metal. should i use DTM? or is DTA still appropriate?

thanks
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, cam, heads, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'01 e46 325ci *tree modded
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP

[Evil_Fiz]

[Chickensoup]

Awesome thanks for the tips! I will check out spi epoxy. The cleaning tips are especially helpful. I've used master series before. I used it on my chassis. The stuff cures FAST. I haven't shot it but foam brushing it was a real big pain. Didn't go on smooth and took forever.

Everyone has told me prep it everything. Bondo will only be used for skim coat. Im leaning towards the spi epoxy or tamco dta. Car will be taken down to bare metal 100 percent.

Thanks for the links!
_________________
-'85 c10 5.3 LS, cam, heads, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'01 e46 325ci *tree modded
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP