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djkeev
Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 32597
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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djkeev
Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 32597
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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IdahoDoug
Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2010
Posts: 10248
Location: N. Idaho
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 Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 8:59 pm Post subject: |
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Nice! Now come out here on vacation and show me how to do mine!
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader |
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fraggle00
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2011
Posts: 356
Location: Bristow, VA
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| Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 1:57 pm Post subject: |
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Bummer, I flopped mine together without replacing the harder to get at seals and the two orings in the bearing nose cone. Didnt think to just call an oring place!
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'91 Vanagon Carat
'87 Porsche 928S4 DOWN
'12 Fiat 500 Abarth |
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Merian
Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2014
Posts: 5212
Location: Orygun
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| Posted: Wed Aug 12, 2015 4:12 pm Post subject: |
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| IdahoDoug wrote: |
| Nice! Now come out here on vacation and show me how to do mine! |
yes, practice on his while you're en route to fix mine |
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hrtm
Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2015
Posts: 149
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 5:00 pm Post subject: |
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| djkeev wrote: |
My new "Solid State" trans oil cooler installed......
Dave |
ooooooh! Is that the Foreign Auto Supply unit from Van Cafe? I really want to replace the stock ATF "cooler" (yeah right - more like heater!) on mine as well. I had thought that if i needed to pull the trans and redo the "back to back" seals I was going to go ahead and get one of these from Van Cafe and install it while I was there. If, however, it turns out my diff oil leak is simpler in nature and I don't have to drop the trans after all.....
How do you like it so far? I really like this design leaps and bounds above the GoWesty external cooler.
BUT, it looks like it would be impossible to install with the trans still in the van - am I right? Thoughts?
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'84 Vanagon Westfalia
'69 Beetle |
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IoWesty
Samba Member
Joined: February 17, 2014
Posts: 181
Location: Iowa
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| Posted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 4:41 am Post subject: Re: Replacing the Final Drive to Automatic Trans Seals |
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| Great Thread! |
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flyboyaviator
Samba Member
Joined: November 29, 2009
Posts: 154
Location: South Florida
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| Posted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 2:27 pm Post subject: Re: Replacing the Final Drive to Automatic Trans Seals |
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| DJKEEV great re-post, lost of information I was looking for, much appreciated. |
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skelly
Samba Member
Joined: May 13, 2018
Posts: 45
Location: Upper peninsula, MI
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| Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 4:08 pm Post subject: Re: Replacing the Final Drive to Automatic Trans Seals |
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Dave- I replaced the final drive to transmission seal and I知 curious about a couple things after doing so.
1. The shaft I知 holding with 2 fingers spins freely. Is this normal?
2. The shaft I知 pointing to here does not spin. Is this normal?
3. The pump shaft seems a little deep but is seated fine and spinning as it seems it should. Does this look OK?
Thanks! |
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AceTaylor
Samba Member
Joined: July 15, 2009
Posts: 139
Location: PERKASIE, PA
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| Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 5:12 am Post subject: Re: Replacing the Final Drive to Automatic Trans Seals |
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| I have a gear oil (texture, smell, and color) leak from what appears behind the torque converter. Looking at these pictures, how it find a way to leak there. I've degreased and washed it down several times and am nearly certain it is from back there. It is not that bad in that I've only added 8 oz. on a recent trip to FL and back (2550 mi) but the fine oil mist makes a mess of the rear hatch. |
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?Waldo?
Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2006
Posts: 9752
Location: Where?
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| Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 11:20 am Post subject: Re: Replacing the Final Drive to Automatic Trans Seals |
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| AceTaylor wrote: |
| I have a gear oil (texture, smell, and color) leak from what appears behind the torque converter. Looking at these pictures, how it find a way to leak there. I've degreased and washed it down several times and am nearly certain it is from back there. It is not that bad in that I've only added 8 oz. on a recent trip to FL and back (2550 mi) but the fine oil mist makes a mess of the rear hatch. |
I hope you realize there are two different separate fluids in your transaxle. The differential has gear oil and the automatic trans section has ATF. If it smells like gear oil, then it probably is gear oil and is leaking from the differential section. If that is the case, then to measure the oil loss, you need to remove the fill plug from the differential. The dipstick only measures the level of ATF. Hopefully you already know all of this and on your trip you were checking the diff fluid and the 8 oz you added was gear oil to the diff. |
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AceTaylor
Samba Member
Joined: July 15, 2009
Posts: 139
Location: PERKASIE, PA
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| Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 12:51 pm Post subject: Re: Replacing the Final Drive to Automatic Trans Seals |
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| Yes, I know there is two different sections and fluids. Both have distinctive smell, color, and viscosity. They even smell different when they burn off the exhaust pipe. I did add the proper fluids to the proper sections. I also "cried Uncle" and tossed in the towel and took the car to the transmission shop. So problem solved. |
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hrtm
Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2015
Posts: 149
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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| Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 3:57 pm Post subject: Re: Replacing the Final Drive to Automatic Trans Seals |
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| AceTaylor wrote: |
| Yes, I know there is two different sections and fluids. Both have distinctive smell, color, and viscosity. They even smell different when they burn off the exhaust pipe. I did add the proper fluids to the proper sections. I also "cried Uncle" and tossed in the towel and took the car to the transmission shop. So problem solved. |
I'd be curious to know what the issue(s) turned out to be - if you'd be so kind as to share once you know. I had issues on the other end of the diff where it mates with the AT and it turned out to be bad pinion drive seals.
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'84 Vanagon Westfalia
'69 Beetle |
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AceTaylor
Samba Member
Joined: July 15, 2009
Posts: 139
Location: PERKASIE, PA
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| Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 7:20 pm Post subject: Re: Replacing the Final Drive to Automatic Trans Seals |
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| I'll probably never know. I had bought a used transmission from a guy doing a Subie swap a year ago. The transmission shop is going to check out and reseal that one, then just swap the transaxles to eliminate down time. No idea on the history of the used one but in all likely hood lower miles than mine (344,000 miles). |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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| Posted: Thu Jun 06, 2019 8:04 am Post subject: Re: Replacing the Final Drive to Automatic Trans Seals |
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Check out the first picture on page 1 of this thread. The outer shaft is fixed and does not turn.
| skelly wrote: |
Dave- I replaced the final drive to transmission seal and I知 curious about a couple things after doing so.
1. The shaft I知 holding with 2 fingers spins freely. Is this normal?
2. The shaft I知 pointing to here does not spin. Is this normal?
3. The pump shaft seems a little deep but is seated fine and spinning as it seems it should. Does this look OK?
Thanks! |
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jwallis
Samba Member
Joined: March 02, 2012
Posts: 567
Location: Austin
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| Posted: Thu Jul 22, 2021 12:21 am Post subject: |
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| djkeev wrote: |
Close up of the gap between the two units....... This is NOT fully mated, stop and find out why before proceeding!
Dave |
Hey Dave,
I replaced all these seals including the paper gasket and big ol' oRing years ago and had this issue. It seemed like it was stopping short of fully mated, and I remember I determined that it was just that big ol' oRing on the diff side not wanting to get squished into the AT side, so I just cranked the nuts to pull the halves together. That was after much head scratching and trying several times.
A few years ago I did a Bostig conversion, and I think at that time I dropped the transaxle a foot or so and it hit the ground (dirt, not concrete, and the engine was still suspended via a hoist) and may have pulled these 2 halves apart a bit. Because after that I developed a leak, and I believe it's from between these 2 halves. I'm putting in a newer engine, so I really want to be leak free. I'm tempted to try to tighten those nuts to see if the halves mate more fully.
I guess that area - or I should say that volume - between the 2 halves is flooded with ATF during normal operation, and that big ol' oRing is what keeps it in?
What was the reason your halves were not going together, leading you to take this picture?
Thanks!
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