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67ctbug Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2016 Posts: 3619 Location: CT
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Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2021 3:14 pm Post subject: Re: 35mm film scanner |
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Ooh a bumped film thread! I love shooting film! Have too many cameras to list. I was at a goodwill a few years ago and picked up a whole enlarger set up so I now shoot, develop, and print all my own B+W and color film. The color has to be scanned, the black and white can be put on the enlarger. I do send out my Super 8 though, and if I'm lazy the 35 as well. I've had a fascination with Polaroid for a long time now, I've been buying up NOS Polaroid ROLL film from the '60s and '70s and experimenting with it. I've found the color variants normally work compared to black and white, my theory being because they have a silica packet in the wrapper. I've also been looking into getting a proper film scanner. _________________ '67 Beetle L41
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KentPS wrote: |
...or the PO envied the terrorists' bus in "Back to the Future". |
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He's fine, just waiting for the dragon in winklepickers to move out of his lane. |
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Abscate Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2014 Posts: 22566 Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2021 4:50 pm Post subject: Re: 35mm film scanner |
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I was a newspaper photographer in the 60s and 70s and have Nikon stuff for 35mm and Blad for sharp stuff.
On retirement I will have a lot of stuff to digitize. Interested In current scanners _________________ .ssS! |
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Emily's Owner Samba Member
Joined: January 18, 2004 Posts: 973 Location: Canby, Oregon
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Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2021 8:58 pm Post subject: Re: 35mm film scanner |
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photogdave wrote: |
I'm happy to say my Epson from above post is still doing a great job with the film I've shot through Leica glass.
I was even able to upgrade the SilverFast software to the latest mac OS. |
Thank you! Exactly the info I was hoping for. _________________ Xargaret
ITMC - OG Den Mother
What (and I cannot stress this enough) The Actual Fuck?!
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iamdonquixote Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2003 Posts: 2037 Location: M*ssholia
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Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2021 2:36 pm Post subject: Re: 35mm film scanner |
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not so sure about 35mm
but you can do wonders with a digital SLR a light table and a tripod setup for 'copy work' for medium format & large format negatives.
its just all very time consuming to scan even if you have something that will input strips
it just is tedious to scan IMO.
with a copy camera you need to invert the image, I do that with batch jobs and image processing tools if I have many images. |
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 21474 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2021 2:42 pm Post subject: Re: 35mm film scanner |
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Chickensoup wrote: |
i actually really enjoy shooting film but its kinda expensive if you cant process your own film.
IMO photoshop is almost a must if you want to do anything more than convert the negatives. ive just been using the scanner on my printer and it works great. you have to rotate the negative and crop the edges sometimes tho but its not that bad.
Ive been using a canon A1 for 3 or so years and its an amazing do it all sort of camera. not sure if the op is thinking about shooting film again but another fun format are the rollies or any other TLR. |
This is actually pretty easy to do yourself.
You need these things:
1. A developing tank. This one is a very good one. You can do one or two rolls at a time too as long as both reels are in it to take up the space. This is a "daylight" tank...so once you get your film in in pitch dark....drop into tank and snap on the lid and now you can go out in the light to add chemicals.
This is a good deal. A double reel tank with two reels- about $31
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/886586-REG/Paterson_Universal_Tank_with_Two.html
2. You need a cheap paint can/ bottle opener similar to this to pop open your film reels in the dark. - Free at hardware store
https://www.amazon.com/paint-can-opener/s?k=paint+can+opener
3. You need a stop watch...use your phone!
4. You need chemicals :
your black and white developer of choice. I shoot mostly Ilford FP4 and HP5. I like to use a developer that came back on the market a couple of years ago.
Its called Accufine. Its a special developer to prevent the grain from swelling. It makes VERY fine grain negatives. You can develop virtually any black and white negative film with this...about $17 for a one gallon of concentrate serving.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1051-REG/Acufine_AFD128.html
I also REALLY like Diafine...which is a "two-bath" version of the same developer for even finer grain...but its slower.
Kodak indicator stop bath-$6.50...makes gallons of stop bath
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/27775-REG/Kodak_1464247_Indicator_Stop_Bath_Liquid.html
Kodak or Ilford fixer bath - about $11 a gallon
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1493204-REG...liEALw_wcB
Hypoclearing additive-removes chemicals during rinse- $4.39 for one gallon's worth of concentrate.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1313635-REG...7jEALw_wcB
A plate of cheap glass to squeegee negatives off with- $5
A cheap digital thermometer $5 at Wally world...or this is a good one if you are already ordering from B&H- $5
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1313616-REG/legacy_pro_62010_6_glass_thermometer.html
Plastic clothes' line cord and clothespins to hang up your negatives- Maybe $5
Negative squeegee - $13.95
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/985121-REG/dot_line_dl_6121_film_squeegee_rubber.html
Get a couple of glass measuring cups that measure in ounces.
You need a 1-2 quart container for each of the chemicals. Only the developer needs to be in an opaque...light safe....jug. I use these
https://www.menards.com/main/paint/brushes-rollers...354023.htm
A neat trick....to keep air from killing your chemicals when you have say only a half jug...is to go to Hobby Lobby and in the plant arrangement section....they have big bags of glass and plastic marbles for dirt cheap. Buy a couple of bags and wash them. Then pour them in the chemical jug to bring the liquid level up to the top and keep air to a minimum. Maybe $7
Really all of the chemicals except for the developer...I just store in empty half gallon milk jugs. I keep the developers in the above plastic paint jugs with screw on tops.
So your equipment is about $60 not including shipping...or you may find all of this locally at a photo store.
Your first set of chemicals is right at $40...without shipping...but all are concentrates. Or you might find them locally at a photo shop. This first set of chemicals will probably develop about 50 rolls of film.
The developer can be used numerous times. You simply mark on the side of the jug how many rolls have been used with the liquid. Add some make up at some point...and after X # of rolls...increase development time. Same for fixer...in fact you can buy a dropper bottle of chemical that checks the fixer to see if its expended.
https://www.amazon.com/Edwal-Hypo-Check-Chemical-Exhausted-Fixers/dp/B00009R6Z5
Even with shipping thats about $2 a roll for development.
Very quickly you can learn...by your photo style...if your film likes to be developed longer or shorter for better contracts or grain.
The reels in those patterson tanks are the best. They have a spring and ball bearing ratchet catch that makes loading very quick in the dark.
Easiest way to practice and get perfect at that very quickly...is to buy a single roll of film to sacrifice. I pull it out in the light so its dead. I keep it in an old film bottle rolled up.
I do my film loading in the bathroom. Its teh easiest place in the house to make total darkness. No window in mine. Stuff a towel under the door...close the door...turn out the lights. lLook for any light whatsoever and fix.
Then.. sit down on the toilet or bathtub. With lights on.....close your eyes and feed the dead film into the reels. Do that about 3 times then turn off the lights and repeat. I do not do film that often so I practice about 5 times before I actually get down to it.
In pitch black....use bottle opener to peel off the cap on the film can opposite the plastic winder reel sticking out. Push out the roll of film.
Locate the narrow leader and snip it off with your sharp scissors. Feed the end into the reel until it clicks. Thumb on each side....Ratchet the reels as it sucks up the film until the end just tucks inside. Drop it in the tank. Do the second one...drop it in the tank....snap on the light safe lid and drop in the chemical center tube.
Turn on the lights and you are ready to develop!
Ray |
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Chickensoup Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2018 Posts: 5368 Location: Good Hope, GA
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Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2021 7:51 pm Post subject: Re: 35mm film scanner |
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awesome thanks for all the info ray. i had looked into the little cup mixer things b4 but completely forgot they existed.
my freshmen year we developed film in the class room. shut all the doors, it was pitch black. except for the red light which as you know, is the least harsh. honestly i just went by feel when dunking them. plus it was an open container so you could watch them develop.
maybe ill add a red light to the mix too.
thanks again! _________________ -'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
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Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge" |
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 21474 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2021 9:47 pm Post subject: Re: 35mm film scanner |
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Chickensoup wrote: |
awesome thanks for all the info ray. i had looked into the little cup mixer things b4 but completely forgot they existed.
my freshmen year we developed film in the class room. shut all the doors, it was pitch black. except for the red light which as you know, is the least harsh. honestly i just went by feel when dunking them. plus it was an open container so you could watch them develop.
maybe ill add a red light to the mix too.
thanks again! |
Understand....that for FILM...meaning negatives that you took pictures with in the camera....NO LIGHTS....not even red light.
The film is sensitive to ALL light. The print paper for making prints...is not. You can get away with red or amber.
Ray |
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