Removing door lock mechanism

[stephenstep]

I can't seem to find a good video online of how to get out my door locking mechanism on my 69 bug convertible. Just trying to figure out if it's a nightmare job or simple. Any info would be appreciated. When I close the door the "u" shaped piece won't click shut and hold the door closed.

[beetlenut]

If you're talking about the handle itself with the lock in it, there is a phillips head screw in the edge of the door, most likely behind the door seal. Remove that, and push the handle towards the front of the car. Then take out the rear of the handle first, then the front. The locking mechanism can then be taken out of the handle by removing a pin. You can drill out the end of the peined over pin, and replace with a spring pin. The "U" shaped piece you're talking about is, I believe, connected to the locking mechanism by a rod. I think that "U" shaped piece is spring loaded to click closed, so the spring may have broken or come lose?
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scrapyards are for quitters
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[stephenstep]

No not the handle but the locking mechanism thats inside the door. The one part sticks out to grab the bar when you shut the door.

[Paul Windisch]

It's not that bad to take them out. Obviously, you need to remove the interior trim panel.

I did mine a couple summers ago, although my window regulators were really sticky, too, so I removed the window regulators to clean them and lube them. I did all of it at the same time.

I believe, if I remember correctly, you have to remove the window run channel in the rear of the door to get the lock out. I think there is a 10mm bolt on the bottom, and then there is a metal spring slide clip on the top. Remove the 10mm and then pull down on the run channel and it should come out. You also need to remove the little lock knob from the top of the door; it just unscrews.

When you get it out, spend some time with some brake cleaner and a toothbrush to remove all the old grease and dirt, then get some good penetrating oil (not WD40). My favorite is GM Heat Valve Lubricant (part number 88862628), but PB Blaster will also work. Spray every moving part you can see, and try to work all of the moving parts back and forth. Some may require a pocket screwdriver or a small pick tool. There is one pawl in particular you should probably be focused on. It is the pawl that latches the lock.

Once everything is moving freely, clean all the penetrating oil up with brake cleaner again, then apply some grease to all of those same moving parts. Or, another GM product I like is Super Lube, part number 12346241. It is in a spray can. I would use the nozzle straw so you can pinpoint the application. After spraying out a liquid, it turns into a lightweight silicone grease.

Once satisfied, put it back together. It is important to make sure the plastic vapor barrier gets put back on. If it doesn't, the trim panel will experience water damage and will start to curl.

At one time I know I took a bunch of pictures when I did this, but the one above is the only one I could find. If I come across them, I will post them up.

EDIT: I found the pics. Give me a few and I'll write it up.
_________________
*ASE Recertified Master Automotive Tech*

1984 Mexican Beetle
-1914cc
-L3 Heads 35x32 valves 52cc chambers
-0.040" deck for about 9.1:1 Compression
-Engle W110 cam
-CB Super Stock 1.1:1 Rockers
-Stock Heat Exchangers w/ Tri-Mil Muffler
-Dual Weber IDF 40s w/ 26mm venturis
-034 SVDA Distributor

2013 Chevrolet Volt DD
2005 Pontiac Montana SV6

MAHLE Service Solutions
Applications Engineer

[Paul Windisch]

My car is a 1984 Mexican Beetle. Most of it should be the same as yours, but there may be minor differences.

First you have to remove the interior door trim panel.

Pop the plastic cover off the window crank handle and remove the Phillip's screw. Then pull the handle off.

Remove the door pull handle next. There are two Phillip's screws holding it on.

Remove the escutcheon from behind the unlatch handle.

Remove the Phillip's screw from the bezel, then work the bezel off.

Now get a trim tool to remove all the retainers holding the trim panel to the door. It doesn't have to be just like the one pictured, just something thin and strong enough to release the clips.

Remove the lock knob by unscrewing it.

If yours has not disintegrated, remove the foam from around the unlatch handle. The actuator rod is probably going through a hole in the side if it.

Remove the fasteners for the unlatch handle. Mine are 10mm, but yours might be Phillip's screws. Once free from the door, gently let the handle hang from the rod.

In my previous post about the window run channel, I was wrong about the fastener, it is a Phillip's screw.

Now, I tried to take a decent picture of the spring clip at the top of the run channel. The rear window felt has been removed. This photo is of the clip before removal:

And this one is after I have pulled downward on the channel to release the clip. Take a note on what it looks like before, so you know where it goes when you put it back together.

Several inches above where the run channel screw was located, is another Phillip's screw to remove.

Now, on the side of the door, you need to pull the door seal away from the latch area to expose more fasteners.

These two screws are for the latch:

This one is for the outside door handle. In the picture, two above, you can see this screw is a flat head, but that is the wrong screw in my door. Yours will be a Phillip's in that location.

Then, remove the outside door handle. Move the handle forward, then pull the rear of the handle out away from the door.

You will then push the latch into the "closed" position to get it out through the hole in the side of the door.

Then, pull the assembly out of the door. Be careful not to bend the rod that goes up to the lock knob when removing the assembly.

Now you have it out! The next two are spraying the lock assembly with the aforementioned GM Penetrant. I didn't get any pictures of all the moving parts, but just study it and you'll see how it works, and what needs to move and be freed up.

Scrubbing with a toothbrush:

Then, after a brake cleaner bath, greasing everything. I was out of Super Lube at the time, so I filled a medicine syringe with bearing grease so I could squirt it into small places. The rest I brushed on with an acid brush:

That's it! Read backwards to re-assemble.
_________________
*ASE Recertified Master Automotive Tech*

1984 Mexican Beetle
-1914cc
-L3 Heads 35x32 valves 52cc chambers
-0.040" deck for about 9.1:1 Compression
-Engle W110 cam
-CB Super Stock 1.1:1 Rockers
-Stock Heat Exchangers w/ Tri-Mil Muffler
-Dual Weber IDF 40s w/ 26mm venturis
-034 SVDA Distributor

2013 Chevrolet Volt DD
2005 Pontiac Montana SV6

MAHLE Service Solutions
Applications Engineer

[stephenstep]

Thanks Paul, this is very helpful. I appreciate the effort to repost all of that.

[bomberbob]

Why is your door seal where it is? Does it seal better there than the normal location? I will be installing mine soon, so looking for a better way.
_________________
1968 Beetle (storage)
1990 Jetta GLI megasquirted, burning E85 (currently in heavy maintenance)
2004 Jetta turbo GLI
Marion, Iowa

[Paul Windisch]

It’s normally in the normal place. It needs to be repositioned to access the door latch screws.

Here is how it normally looks:

_________________
*ASE Recertified Master Automotive Tech*

1984 Mexican Beetle
-1914cc
-L3 Heads 35x32 valves 52cc chambers
-0.040" deck for about 9.1:1 Compression
-Engle W110 cam
-CB Super Stock 1.1:1 Rockers
-Stock Heat Exchangers w/ Tri-Mil Muffler
-Dual Weber IDF 40s w/ 26mm venturis
-034 SVDA Distributor

2013 Chevrolet Volt DD
2005 Pontiac Montana SV6

MAHLE Service Solutions
Applications Engineer

[stephenstep]

I am still stuck trying to remove my door lock mechanism. Even though Paul gave me all sorts of info, once I got into it I realized that the convertible setup is quite different. If anyone can help who has experience with the convertible door that would be great. I have most of it apart but can't figure out how to get the rear glass guide out to get at the lock mechanism. Not sure if I have to remove the glass as well, hopefully not. The rear guide also has a bolt that appears to be attached that goes through the door metal making it near impossible to slide out even if it is free.

[Paul Windisch]

I apologize. I overlooked that you have a convertible. I never had a convertible door apart.

Maybe Cusser has had his apart and can help.
_________________
*ASE Recertified Master Automotive Tech*

1984 Mexican Beetle
-1914cc
-L3 Heads 35x32 valves 52cc chambers
-0.040" deck for about 9.1:1 Compression
-Engle W110 cam
-CB Super Stock 1.1:1 Rockers
-Stock Heat Exchangers w/ Tri-Mil Muffler
-Dual Weber IDF 40s w/ 26mm venturis
-034 SVDA Distributor

2013 Chevrolet Volt DD
2005 Pontiac Montana SV6

MAHLE Service Solutions
Applications Engineer

[Cusser]

[Paul Windisch]

[Cusser]