Best solution for DIY rust prevention/coating of trailing arms?

[jeremypbeasley]

The yahoo that aligned the lift I did recently didn't torque my trailing arm bolts sufficiently after the camber adjustment and they began turning out about a month later.

Needtheless to say, the van's been grounded and I've got a little rear end project. New trailing arm bolts. Powerflex bushings, new CVs, new boots. All the parts are here. Thankfully there was no damage to the trailing arm when those bolts began to turn out.

While I'm in here I want to do some good rust protection to the trailing arms. Thankfully there's very little rust right now, but I also plan on parking this thing outside for another 20 years.

I've read plenty about powdercoating and galvinizing, however both those options are quite pricey in Seattle and I'd like to do something I can handle with products myself.

The forums on this topic tend to trail off into infinite with strong opinions and not a ton of clarity for someone like myself who's only a couple years into their first restoration project.

1.) How do I get this damned factory undercoating off? Is sand blasting the only option? Should I just leave it alone? If I do leave it, doesn't covering it risk encapsulation of rust or whatever I apply on top just peeling off?

2.) What's the best product to coat it in? I'm leaning towards Rustoleum's Undercoating rattle cans, but wide open to better ideas.

As always, thanks for your time.

JB

[4Gears4Tires]

I'm not a fan of POR15 but I ordered a gallon when I was drunk one night. I used that. It's held up fairly well.

Order a 4oz bottle and it'll be enough to do the trailing arms. Probably the rest of the suspension too.
_________________
'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[Crankey]

When your going to do your rear bushings, have them zinc plated.
Not hot dip galvanized but plated. That's what I'll do. Then paint over that.

To do it faster, buy a pair of trailing arms and have them plated and ready to swap in during bushing replacement.

If you wanted you could even add a sacrificial anode. Go to a boat supply store or even ebay and buy a zinc anode.

[MayorMcCheese]

Master Series is the same style of paint as POR 15 but it's not affected by UV light. Just wear a respirator because the fumes are insane.

https://masterseriesct.com/

[WestyWanter]

[RalphWiggam]

[dobryan]

After you paint it with whatever you choose you can further coat the inside and outside with an undercoating wax like cosmoline or wayoxl. That stuff is great.

https://www.cosmolinedirect.com/cosmoline-rp-342-heavy-spray-military-grade-rust-preventive/
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Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[Phishman068]

Eastwood Heavy Duty Anti Rust in Black finish.
It's a thick wax that dries mostly hard. Apply it right over whatever you have- and unlike paint (ESPECIALLY POR15, which I cannot suggest AGAINST heavily enough)- it self heals when scratched and sticks nicely to all surfaces (including the paint you're painting over).

Just clean it real nicely, scuff it up a bit, and hit it with a rattle can of the Eastwood product.
I've been using this for years on countless busses- it looks and performs awesomely!
_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559766&highlight=winter+rust
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482402&highlight=sunroof+syncro
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569774
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6864936#6864936

"Along with the ability to go fast, one looses the desire to hurry."

[dkoesyncro]

Magnet paints Chassis Saver
The best, AG-111

Never consider another, this was internet research hours of it!
The Chassis Saver is very simple to use and AG-111 is a two part.

[Bulli Klinik]

1.) How do I get this damned factory undercoating off? Is sand blasting the only option? Should I just leave it alone? If I do leave it, doesn't covering it risk encapsulation of rust or whatever I apply on top just peeling off?

A torch and putty knife will remove undercoating every time. Then take it to the blaster.

2.) What's the best product to coat it in? I'm leaning towards Rustoleum's Undercoating rattle cans, but wide open to better ideas.

I'd use an epoxy primer followed by a topcoat of your choice. That or powdercoating. A Waxoyl type product for the inside, if so inclined.

As always, thanks for your time.

JB[/quote]
_________________
I've never met a Bus I didn't like.
Mike K
Bulli Klinik
Colorado Springs

[RoryGirl]

[4Gears4Tires]

Link


Project Farm did some rust proofing tests. Looks like CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor is the top dog.
_________________
'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[Steve M.]

Take them off and get them hot dipped galvanized.
_________________
This free advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.

There are seven days in a week. Someday is not one of them.