78 bay torsion arm removel

[avoll]

So I got a few ball joints that need changed.
Looking for advice on taking torsion arms off, so I can get the old ball joints pressed out.
I tried pressing them out on bus, but I think its going to take a bigger press to get them out.

I've read that you remove the rubber bumper from both sides to let the pressure off. But after I've removed the bumpers, I still have some spring preload on the torsion arms.

Any help/advice is greatly appreciated

[busdaddy]

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc..._chars=200
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[mikewire]

Obviously you'll be removing all the front end components including the steering knuckle to get to those torsion arms.

The bottom arms will rotate downwards and should slide out easily when you remove the grub screw, no problems there.

You'll have more trouble with the uppers - I found that removing the upper rubber bump stops helped. With them removed, the torsion arm will bottom out on the bump stop support, what I will call a "stump" lol.

You'll want to user a dead blow hammer to carefully persuade the arm from the the inside, tapping as close as possible to the tube end of the arm...and bit by bit the arm will slide out of the tube. When the arm gets past the small bump stop support "stump" you can then rotate the torsion arm down and it will slide out of the tube.

Inspect the arms for any major wear or grooves. Replace the torsion arm seals while you are there, and be sure to have a grease gun and at least one full new tube of grease ready to go after installation. You can get new torsion seals and rubber bump stops from West Coast Metric.

Installation is pretty much the reverse of removal.

Replacing the ball joints isn't tough if you have the proper tools. I have a 20 ton press, the VW 459 ball joint tool, and a torch. A shop with a press could also do the press work for you.

Be prepared and have a plan, you'll be good.
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@countdowngarage
@bigskyeuro

1972 VW Kombi 9 Passenger Deluxe w/ 2.0L F.I. VWAC swap
1965 VW Beetle Deluxe Bahama Blue

[Jetfxr69]

That upper arm is under the tension load of the leaves. As you tap it out away from the “stump”, once it clears the end, its gonna swing forcefully down. Ive always kept a floor jack just touching the tip of the arm so that when this occurs, you catch all that spring force on the jack. As you tap the arm outward make sure the jack wheels are oriented to let it roll forward as the arm swings down. Then you can let the jack down nice and easy.
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[avoll]

Thanks everyone for the help

Now for the magic trick of getting the torsion arms back on.
How do you get the bars to all line up to get it back on there.
I was thinking about trying some loctite in between each bar and getting them lined up, clamping them over night why it drys.

How on earth did they do it at the factory?

Any other ideas?

[SGKent]

one side was welded. Slide both sides on before you start lifting one or the other. If you do one completely then the other, the individual bars splay out. If you slide each arm on part way first, there is no pressure on the bars to lose their form.
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[avoll]

Ok, thanks
I was trying to do 1 side at a time.
I was worried about moving those bars inside the tube by taking both sides off at the same time. Wasn't sure if tapping other side to clear the knuckle would possibly slide the bars.

[Wildthings]

[avoll]

Thanks everyone for all the help.
Anyone know the torque for the torsion arm set screws?
What is the specs of the bolt for the top of the shock?
I think someone put the wrong size bolt in mine.
Thanks again

[mikewire]