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1971 Deluxe
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blue72beetle
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

khalimadeath wrote:
Did you find those shifter parts in a kit or did you order them individually? If a kit, can I get a link please? I need to order the same for mine.


If yours is an early bay, this is what you will need. I'm not sure about the other years. This is where I got all my stuff:

Shifter repair kit, for everything up front:
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Shifter-Repair-Kit-1966-1-2-1974-1-2-Type-2-p/211-798-121e.htm

Shift coupler, for the connection to the tranny. Aircooled called me and told me they were out of this, so they substituted the urethane version:
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Shift-Coupler-1964-79-Type-1-1968-79-Type-2-p/311-798-211-131-100.htm

Boots, they don't tell you but you need two, one front one rear:
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Shift-Rod-Boot-57-79-...1-183b.htm

Rear Shift Rod Bushing. They say you need one, and that is correct, it goes on the rear of the shift rod where there is one hole:
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Shift-Bushing-All-Typ...1-185b.htm

What aircooled.net doesn't tell you, and it seems they don't sell it, is you need one for the front of the rear shift rod, which has two holes. So I had to get one from Bus Depot:
http://www.busdepot.com/211711179

Getting the shifter adjusted properly is a pain in the butt. Mine works, it stays in all the gears, but it doesn't seem like it's adjusted right. Since it works I'm just going to leave it.
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blue72beetle
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since my last post I've done quite a bit to this bus.

I've since installed the correct distributor and this thing drive wonderfully now. I took it to a show this weekend and put over 200 miles on it without a problem. Well... except for a little hot-start issue Evil or Very Mad

It didn't have a back seat when I bought it, and rather than trying to track down a nice early back seat or pay early back seat prices, I built an extended platform in the back, level with the rear shelf above the engine. This wasn't big enough to sleep on itself, so I had the idea of building a rear hatch tent, like I've seen on other buses here.

The shelf I made turned out great, but the material I used could be better. It's called herculite, and it's very thick and strong, almost plastic like. But it's heavy and doesn't fold very well. If I decide to make another I'm going to use regular lightweight tent material. But we camped in it, and it worked out great.

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Primered buses hang out together....

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blue72beetle
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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2015 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I recently got back from my 6 month deployment overseas. I got the bus out and started driving it. After a few minutes she didn't want to idle and would run really crappy. I think during winter storage something settled in the tank and got into the carb, as there's no fuel filter. I needed to pull the engine anyway to install the correct front tin, so I guess I'll clean the carb while it's out and put a filter under the tank.

Since it's not driving I took the time to have the wheels stripped and powdercoated! Ready for some fresh RA08's!

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Zotie
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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2015 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really cool bus. Just saw this post while trying to figure out the best way to put a bed when I camp in the back of my 71'. Cool pics!
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blue72beetle
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pulled the engine to install the correct front tin, and while it was out I took the carb apart and sprayed out all the passageways. After I put it back together it still ran like crap. I thought the retard diaphragm was shot, when I would pinch the hose from the retard port on the carb it would run better. I pulled the dist. cap off and checked for movement while sucking on both ports, and that's when I discovered the advance plate was stuck. It freed up and now it's running fine. I guess a distributor rebuild is in my future.

Also got a stock muffler on, so I could install my crusty rear bumper. The new rims and RA-08's look and ride great too.

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secretsubmariner
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That rusty bumper is amazing. With the wheels and interior and everything, it's a very admirable set up, great job!
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blue72beetle
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks man.

I called the powdercoating place today that did my wheels, they said it'd be $150 to strip and coat the bumper. Will probably do that to both front and rear soon, but even a rusty bumper on there is better than no bumper.
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mattsaintg
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is looking great, that color combo at the moment is pretty awesome - I love my ra08's.

Looking forward to seeing what you do next.
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9mmMike
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 14, 2019 10:01 am    Post subject: Re: 1971 Deluxe Reply with quote

Resurrecting an old thread here but pining to know how is this bus doing?
Oh, and.....

Thanks for your service!.
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blue72beetle
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2020 7:02 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 Deluxe Reply with quote

Thought I would update this so I can stop spamming the "Stupid Questions" thread with stupid questions, as I'm sure I'll have more problems.

Back in 2017 the engine started acting up (and it had TONS of endplay) so I parked it. Life got busy and the bus didn't become a priority until this year. I bought a rebuilt 1776 longblock and started putting it together.

1776 w/ 100 cam
New fuel tank
Restored fuel pump
Restored 34-3 carb, 1971 only
NOS 205Q distributor, 1971 only
'Re-carboned' the vapor canister
All new fuel and vacuum lines
Vintage Speed Bay Window Muffler

Since it's now a 1776 but I'm using the stock carb, I did some research on here what other people have used for jets with that combo.
Right now I have installed:
Main: 130
Air Correction: 75z
Pilot (idle): 60

I've spent this past summer putting it together, cleaned and degreased the engine compartment and re-sprayed it. Finally got it in the bus this past week. I spent all day today trying to crank it to get fuel to flow, I finally took the lines off and filled them with fuel, making a mess. Static timed it at TDC just to get it started.
It finally fired up today, but wouldn't stay running. I'll check it out more tomorrow.

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brando90gl
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 2:52 am    Post subject: Re: 1971 Deluxe Reply with quote

Man that looks good!

When you put that spiffy new fuel pump on, did you replace the push rod for a generator type pump? In your first engine pic, you had an alternator style pump on and it would have been mated with a shorter push rod. Now with the generator square top pump you need the longer rod.

PS- I just made this same mistake on a new to me 68. Very Happy Would run as long as I fed it fuel. What was really strange is, it would run on the test stand with a small tank above the engine just fine with the wrong pushrod.
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airschooled
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 3:14 am    Post subject: Re: 1971 Deluxe Reply with quote

Hey Andy, looking good! Congrats on getting the engine finished.

Definitely check the fuel pump rod, (4.25” or so for that pump.) I have found that some factory-style pumps don’t deal with an empty tank/lines well during cranking, so you may need to fill the carb bowl manually. I use the same graduated syringe for CC’ing heads to inject gasoline into the diagonal vent pipe at the top of the carb opening. This feeds directly into the bowl and won’t flood the engine.

Also check that your fuel pump stand drops easily all the way into the case. Most new stands require a few minutes of coarse sanding to prevent pinching of the rod.

Avoid prolonged cranking on a new build, the lifters need all the splash oil they can get during break-in.

Good luck!
Robbie
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blue72beetle
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 3:39 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 Deluxe Reply with quote

Well I got it running but it won't idle.
And there's the catch 22. I can't set the timing if it won't idle, and I can't get an idle if the timing isn't set.
And at this point, I don't really know what to do. It also seems the choke isn't coming off the last step.


Link

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blue72beetle
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2021 4:41 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 Deluxe Reply with quote

I was curious so I took the old engine part to see if I could find anything obviously wrong. I knew it had a ton of endplay, you can see the bearing moving here, but is this connecting rod play normal?


Link


The previous owners told me they had a guy "rebuild" the engine. I found out the guy was an idiot after I got the bus home and found the lower sled tins on backwards. But I think all he did was put new pistons and cylinders on and call it good. The pistons look good and I can still see cross hatching in the cylinders.
All of the valve seats had cracks between them except for one.

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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2021 4:49 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 Deluxe Reply with quote

That's normal endplay for no flywheel in place, what was it like before you took the flywheel off?

Cracks between the seats isn't a death sentence, but if they lead to the spark plug holes it's toast.
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blue72beetle
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2021 5:00 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 Deluxe Reply with quote

It had a ton of end play with the flywheel and three shims installed. Robbie said it was one of the worst he'd ever seen. I was kinda hoping the shims were gone but there were three there when I took it apart.
Is that the kiss of death for a case?
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2021 5:52 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 Deluxe Reply with quote

Not always, add an extra shim or two and tighten the gland nut so the crank locks up, if there's any endplay then it means the case has issues, if it's tight (no movement at all) reshim according to Bentley and see what happens. Running with excess endplay can distort the rod bearings, since it's apart it may not hurt to slap in a fresh set (if the locked flywheel test passes).
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2021 6:45 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 Deluxe Reply with quote

Update time. I decided that I wasn't smart enough to mess with jets on a stock carb with a non-stock longblock (1776 with a different cam). But I do know how to use a laptop, so I dove into the world of Megasquirt.

Throughout 2021 I took the longblock and built it into fuel injection using some Mexican parts and mostly stuff from The Dub Shop.
Mexican intake, throttle body, and fuel rails
IGN-4VW coil
The Dub Shop fuel pressure regulator
The Dub Shop standard crank trigger
Walbro fuel pump
Bosch 2 wire IAC
Innovate LC-2 wideband O2 sensor and controller
Microsquirt ECU
Most all sensors came from The Dub Shop too.

While the engine was out I got a case of "while I'm in there" and replaced all the CV joint boots and pulled the transaxle to clean it and replace some seals.

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Got everything re-installed, had to home-brew a few things due to the unorthodox engine configuration. I put the O2 sensor controller and the Microsquirt ECU in the spare tire well. There's a serial to usb cable that runs to the front of the car so I can have the laptop in the passenger seat while driving. And almost exactly a year after starting it with a carb, I started it for the first time with Megasquirt fuel injection. To be honest I couldn't believe it worked.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2021 6:53 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 Deluxe Reply with quote

Question. Where is your breather hose next to the oil filler plumber to? Seems like you have it going to the charcoal canister behind your oil bath air cleaner. Or am I wrong?
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blue72beetle
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2021 6:54 pm    Post subject: Re: 1971 Deluxe Reply with quote

I drove it a bit, did some tuning, ran the auto-tune a couple times, gradually made it better getting it dialed in. Still have a long way to go, but it drives great.

I was happy the engine wasn't going to blow up (so far) so I installed Z-bed hinges that I've had waiting for a few years.

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I have a cheap chinese diesel heater I want to install, and I was hoping to take it camping once before putting it away for the winter. But cold weather came quick and I never got to go. So now it's put away until spring. Winter plans include: welding in rust repair panels, pulling all the door handles and ignition to have matching keys made, maybe install that heater.

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