The Stupid Question Thread

[maz-o]

testing the lights on my dash cluster before putting it in place on an old rebuild.

i hot wire a bulb to a battery and the bulb works fine. wiring the same bulb to the same battery but in the cluster and to the cluster ground point, none of the bulbs work??

is it possible that the whole cluster is corroded so badly that it doesn't give ground to a single one of the 8 bulbs? it doesn't look too bad and i've also cleaned all the connectors.

really baffled here.

[busdaddy]

Only you can answer that, the areas the contacts rub against has to be clean and shiny, and the tabs that contact the surface the holders twist into have to be bent so they apply pressure to that area you cleaned. The bulbs in the kidney shaped areas surrounded by black plastic are isolated from ground, they get power from the black wire when the key is on and whatever they are indicating grounds them when it's time for light.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[pgtips]

@busdaddy / @wildthings

Thank you for help, camber done, replaced a ball joint and the steering damper. All reassembled drives well
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1975 1.8l FI Auto Westy - Subaru converted
1971 356 kit 1600 TP - semi/stickshift
1971 1302 LS - semi/stickshift

Trim ring info here -> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559668
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=451210
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=479721

[maz-o]

[Thrasher22]

[elbulli]

How do you remove pushrod tubes that are stuck?

Removed the rocker arm assembly, then wasted an hour trying to do what I thought would be the easy part of the job.

I've tried with my fingers, then with a pipe wrench, with no luck. I can get the tubes to rotate, but when I try to pull them towards the cylinder head, they won't budge. I'm not working in the most optimal conditions - the engine is in and the bus on the floor, but I thought it'd be easier! Any ideas?
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'78 camper, Type 4, FI, hydros

[maz-o]

Hello, another stupid question here.
I have the three-pin Bosch 50A alternator with the external regulator (plastic three pin).
Where is the stock location of the regulator? Previous owner had it dangling loose wherever... And being it's the plastic shell it doesn't need to be grounded to the chassis, right?

[busdaddy]

Those were never installed on a bus originally as far as I know, on a bug it's in the cabin under the back seat. Generator buses have the regulator screwed to the side of the RH wheel tub ahead of the air cleaner.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[PetetheVWguy]

... so as a 17 year old high schooler who is doing my first Bus rebuild, I was wondering if any of you experienced chaps think it would make sense for me to do a Subaru conversion from a stock 2.0l? Right now I have my engine torn down and in the shop while I contemplate this move. The speedster in me wants to be able to have 300hp and a turbo, while the more sensible portion of my brain says "stick with the stock engine." I would potentially use the Bus as transportation to school this fall, using the 70mph freeway. Can a stock Bus even get up to 70?

Thanks-Pete
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1978 Bus, 2.0 FI Oceanic Blue. “‘Ol Blew.”
Rebuilt engine after it sat for ~20 years.

[maz-o]

[KentABQ]

[ImAddicted]

[CanStan]

[PetetheVWguy]

Thanks for the help from all you guys! I think I'll stick with stock right now. Reason one being my limited pocketbook contents, two being it just doesn't make sense to turn the Bus into something it's not. Also, I have some family members who've rebuilt VW engines before and they have been pretty helpful thus far. If I have any serious questions though, I'll run them by the folks on the forum. And rest assured, I am not going to abandon this project. Maybe once I start putting the engine back together, I'll start a dedicated thread.
Cheers—Pete
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1978 Bus, 2.0 FI Oceanic Blue. “‘Ol Blew.”
Rebuilt engine after it sat for ~20 years.

[smitty1976bus]

1978 2.0L EFI

ordered a new oil pressure relief valve, and it is a different size than the one i had in my engine. I take it they sent me the wrong one... or the one in my engine is wrong... does anyone know the correct size, or where i might be able to find the info.. can't find it in my books.

[busdaddy]

[smitty1976bus]

Awesome, thanks!

Another stupid question... where is everyone buying the crush washer for the oil pressure relief valve? I thought one would be in the complete gasket set I bought, but there isn't one. Can't seem to find the big 22mm ones at any auto parts store either. Any quick way i could seal up this plug?? Was planning on trip today.. and shes leaking

[germansupplyscott]

Loctite 518 is good for sealing that plug. It needs to be very tight and tightening it isn't easy without a special tool. You can use a cold chisel to tighten/loosen, in a pinch, but this method will invariably damage the slot.
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SL

[smitty1976bus]

Yea, tightening it isn't easy. Managed to do it with a large screwdriver and wrench.

Found a copper washer the correct size, and made paper gaskets to put around it. Snugged it up and no more leak. Should be good until i locate the correct crush washer... hopefully.

I'll pick up some Loctite 518 in the meantime, just in case.

Thanks!

[maz-o]

Is this deformation normal on the pressure plate springs where the throwout bearing sits?

Is it still usable if the clutch surface is good?