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BLM. Brake lights matter
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tmmybrbr
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2021 5:28 am    Post subject: BLM. Brake lights matter Reply with quote

Ok, had my bus at the mech last week bc the oil cooler was leaking crazy oil. Thankfully it was just the seals.
Mech also adjusted the brakes while it was there, pedal is much higher and firm now.
This week I realize that my brake lights are constantly on from once the key goes to ON. Not sure if it was like that since pickup.
No change if I turn on headlights or depress the brake pedal.
If I switch the left/right wiring on the taillight assemblies, the brake lights are still on, but then when I turn on the headlights the taillight gets brighter, making me think that my constant ON state is actually just running lights and my brake lights aren’t coming on at all.
Suggestions? Could the mech’s adjustment be compressing the brake cylinder enough that even with no pressure on the pedal that the light comes on?
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crukab
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2021 6:38 am    Post subject: Re: BLM. Brake lights matter Reply with quote

tmmybrbr wrote:
Could the mech’s adjustment be compressing the brake cylinder enough that even with no pressure on the pedal that the light comes on?


I'd say Yes, same thing happened w/ my '66, I adjusted the linkage @ the pedal
too much and the Brake lights stayed on , I just backed the adjuster off a bit.
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2021 5:31 pm    Post subject: Re: BLM. Brake lights matter Reply with quote

While info just below is for beetle, the info on the gap is the same:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


and:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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tmmybrbr
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2021 6:58 pm    Post subject: Re: BLM. Brake lights matter Reply with quote

I read the dummies guide about how to adjust the push rod, and just tried it. No luck, unless it’s waaay in further than it needs to be, which might be the case if that graphic is accurate on the number of threads exposed on the push rod when properly adjusted.
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tmmybrbr
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2021 1:22 pm    Post subject: Re: BLM. Brake lights matter Reply with quote

I don't think it's the push rod.
rather than move it much farther, I tried unbolting the master cylinder and gently moving it away from the push rod. I moved it nearly ½" and still the brake lights were stuck on.
If I pull the either wire off the cylinder sensor, the lights go off. Bad sensor?
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2021 1:37 pm    Post subject: Re: BLM. Brake lights matter Reply with quote

tmmybrbr wrote:

If I pull the either wire off the cylinder sensor, the lights go off. Bad sensor?


More than likely. Either that or the wiring needs a major redo/organizing.
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johny__utah
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2021 2:07 pm    Post subject: Re: BLM. Brake lights matter Reply with quote

check the connection on the fuse box. #2 red/black wire and or replace the sensor. It might have gone bad/plugged with all the brake pumping when adjusting. I would ask if he adjusted the push rod before i messed with it, not sure why he would.
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tmmybrbr
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2021 4:36 am    Post subject: Re: BLM. Brake lights matter Reply with quote

It was the switch.
I pullled it off, checked with my meter, it was open.
Called a local VW shop and got a new one, installed it and back in business.
Thanks for the help and advice!
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ToolBox
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2021 8:27 am    Post subject: Re: BLM. Brake lights matter Reply with quote

tmmybrbr wrote:

I pullled it off, checked with my meter, it was open.


Do you mean closed? If it was open the brake lights would be off.

Also pay no attention to the how many threads should be showing on the pushrod part of the freeplay instructions. This assumes a factory spec part is used and there are several different masters used over the years and basically 2 offered in the current market, Just make sure the freeplay is at 1mm at the rod to piston interface.
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tmmybrbr
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2021 12:39 pm    Post subject: Re: BLM. Brake lights matter Reply with quote

ToolBox wrote:
tmmybrbr wrote:

I pullled it off, checked with my meter, it was open.


Do you mean closed? If it was open the brake lights would be off.

Also pay no attention to the how many threads should be showing on the pushrod part of the freeplay instructions. This assumes a factory spec part is used and there are several different masters used over the years and basically 2 offered in the current market, Just make sure the freeplay is at 1mm at the rod to piston interface.


haha yes, meant the switch was closed.
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